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Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1

DavidWymore

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Location
El Centro, CA
Liking the "Boulder Balance" shot.
Got bat guts on my hand when I jumped out and leaned on that rock. One was under the little rocks on the big rock, got squished.

That truck was/is a bad mamma-jamma. Locking diffs, slinky suspension, hotrodded a bit, big winch, gin poles. Had lots of fun in it. Been down a couple years waiting on an engine and motivation.

The deuce is going to replace the Dodge for the heavy towing/dragging. I have this idea for a trailer built with deuce axle(s) and a driveshaft from the rear of the rear deuce axle to the trailer's axle for offroad towing. Been meaning to research/post about it. Don't want to hijack my thread too much, but has anyone seen it done? Wouldn't surprise me.
 
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Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
The deuce is going to replace the Dodge for the heavy towing/dragging. I have this idea for a trailer built with deuce axle(s) and a driveshaft from the rear of the rear deuce axle to the trailer's axle for offroad towing. Been meaning to research/post about it. Don't want to hijack my thread too much, but has anyone seen it done? Wouldn't surprise me.

surprised.jpg
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
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Location
El Centro, CA
I was gonna order some parts for when I get back to the deuce. NOS water pump...are the seals rubber or ceramic/mechanical? If rubber and NOS, do the seals get dried out from sitting and fail?

Thanks!
 

Jeepsinker

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Dry Creek, Louisiana
The universal joints will not have enough range of motion to keep from binding up and breaking when you turn sharp or back the trailer. Only way to do it would be to have a double cardan joint on both ends with the driveshaft supported in the middle, like the 6x6 mining dumptrucks.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
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Location
El Centro, CA
No problem. We build all types of driveshafts. I was thinking an Ag pto shaft, low speed only, disconnect when not in use.

Back to our regularly scheduled programming...I'll post a thread bout the propelled trailer when I get a round tuit.
 
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DavidWymore

Well-known member
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Location
El Centro, CA
Been doing lots of reading on SS and sitting back trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the thing a bit. Started out as a mess-around junker project, then finding it's likely a USMC A1, I wonder how rare it is and how much affect that should have on what I do with it.
The thing is, it is so far gone, trying to bring it back to orig correct configuration would be tough/impossible, time and $ wise. I started adding up ballpark costs to put it all right, and the price starts getting up there real quick. The neighboring company with the parts trucks that I can scrounge from has all old gassers.
I think I'm going to focus on making sure the engine really is good as it's the most important and valuable part. If it's no good, the whole thing goes down the drain. If it's good I can at least part it out if the rest isn't worth messing with.
Next, look into the possibility of getting it titled and registered. I have checked with the DMV a little and a CHP VIN officer I know was supposed to have come by this week to help me figure out how best to go about it.
If it looks like a runner, and I can put it on the road, I guess I'll try to keep it as historically correct as possible appearance wise and make it go as good as possible as cheaply as possible. Thinking about stripping all the civvy paint and leaving the OD under it with all it's scars as-is.


Thoughts and input welcome.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
You won't be able to save the paint to a satisfactory level. Sand it down to find the numbers, then paint it with new paint and stencil the numbers back on the new paint. To find the numbers you can use 150 or 180 grit and sand lightly like you are trying to dry water off of your new car.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
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164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
What a bummer. Looks like an LD non turbo pump on my LDS. Doesn't have the red paint like the rest of the engine, so I bet it got changed. I think the HH number is 90100A

I'm researching, but does anyone know what the differences in the pumps are? I think I read a post by Rayzer that might indicate the difference might only be springs in the advance mechanism? Thanks

5D9C1087-0F64-4580-842E-CD1FAF008463_zps2nqnj01m.jpg
 
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Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
More difference than that. Different gov springs, different fuel metering, and different hydraulic head, which delivers more fuel per stroke.
Without that pump you just have a normal engine.
The LDS pump will have an Hd90101 head on it.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Actually the 90100A Hydraulic Head is for a LDT-465. So it's not the worst hydraulic head, just not a LDS head. I wouldn't even try to find one. I have looked for a couple of years to find the HH for a LDS and have given up. If you want to pay some ridiculous amount of money they can be had, but I refuse to pay over $300.00 for a used Hydraulic Head. Every now and then someone has a complete pump for sell for a LDS, but again they want some serious money for it.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
456
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Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
You can tune it up some, but it will never run like it would with the right pump on it. At least with the old rebuild date you should have the old style camshaft.
Someone will be along shortly to tell you that I'm wrong and that any of these pumps and motors can all make the same power... Just be careful if you like your engine and pistons in one piece.
The pump you have was not designed nor was it speced out to fuel your engine properly or effectively up to its maximum potential power.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
Old style cam shaft...that's a new one. Last night I was reading the oil anti-drain back valve thread until I was too tired to follow. I wonder what other improvement bits of knowledge are out there to learn.

I was reading the LDS465 troubleshooting manual the other night (good info, read it!) and noticed my fuel filters, etc. are LDT style, not LDS style, so the IP being wrong is less surprising. Now that I think about it, I don't think they have the telltale red paint underneath either.

I will be very careful. Boost and pyro gauges for sure. Low budget project truck, and if the engine goes, the whole project goes...not planning to try to build a rocket, but don't want a dog. It will be interesting to research the pump differences and see what can be changed.
 
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