Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1

[rustystud]

You can tune it up some, but it will never run like it would with the right pump on it. At least with the old rebuild date you should have the old style camshaft.
Someone will be along shortly to tell you that I'm wrong and that any of these pumps and motors can all make the same power... Just be careful if you like your engine and pistons in one piece.
The pump you have was not designed nor was it speced out to fuel your engine properly or effectively up to its maximum potential power.

So very true.

 

[rustystud]

Old style cam shaft...that's a new one. Last night I was reading the oil anti-drain back valve thread until I was too tired to follow. I wonder what other improvement bits of knowledge are out there to learn.

I was reading the LDS465 troubleshooting manual the other night (good info, read it!) and noticed my fuel filters, etc. are LDT style, not LDS style, so the IP being wrong is less surprising. Now that I think about it, I don't think they have the telltale red paint underneath either.

I will be very careful. Boost and pyro gauges for sure. Low budget project truck, and if the engine goes, the whole project goes...not planning to try to build a rocket, but don't want a dog. It will be interesting to research the pump differences and see what can be changed.

What is frustrating is that all this old knowledge is mostly lost. The military in it's fallible wisdom decided to just wipe the slate clean and give all the different parts the same number to improve efficiency or because the troops would get confused. You can glean some jewels here and there from old TM manuals. Like the fact that there was at one time over 3 different cams used, and we all know that there is a major difference between the LDT and LDS injection pumps. There was also 2 different styles of pistons used and 2 different compression ratios (20 to 1 and 22 to 1 ). In the lower compression one did the turbo make more boost ? Who knows. This stuff is lost, but I have been trying to find out as much as I can by collecting as many old TM's as I can and seeing what is different.

 

[DavidWymore]

Sure would be nice to get our hands on a lot of old engines and tear them down like David Doyle studying trucks. Neighbor yard had a few multis in military sealed crates. No one runs them anymore, so when scrap prices were high, they scrapped them. Makes me sick to my stomach, and worse if my engine ever fails.

I will be researching to see what I can do to make the best of the pump I have (advance springs, and whatever else) and will be much obliged for any help anyone can give.

Thanks

 

[Another Ahab]

Shattered Dreams

Sure would be nice to get our hands on a lot of old engines and tear them down like David Doyle studying trucks. Neighbor yard had a few multis in military sealed crates. No one runs them anymore, so when scrap prices were high, they scrapped them. Makes me sick to my stomach, and worse if my engine ever fails.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Read through the " turning up fuel in pictures" sticky at the top of the deuce page. There are only two ways to turn up fuel between all of the pumps. If you have an FDC, the main fuel screw is outside on the front facing side of the Fdc, and the smoke cam is inside. On the "G " code pump both adjustments are inside the pump under that same cover. Smoke cam adjustment is more effective than main fuel alone, but you need to adjust both to be effective. If you want to play around a bit, go to a parts store and buy a $25 boost/ vacuum combo gauge and plumb it into the intake elbow and tune for a max boost of 12 psi until you get a pyro. Once you install a pyro you can tweak more, but 12 psi is about the max safe boost you can tune for without knowing your egt.
When you adjust the smoke cam, loosen the 7/16" nut, and up towards the sky is more fuel. You'll see what I mean when you get the cover off. The smoke cam is unmistakable.

 

[DavidWymore]

Thanks. I made it about half way through that thread before I got tired and tired of wading, but I have read the fuel adjustment in the LDS TS TM and seen the info elsewhere on the forum. I like the adjustable FDC cable thread. I will turn it up once I get gauges.

I wonder what else there is as far as initial timing and timing advance springs. Probably ought to talk to Rayzer.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Doesn't really matter if you don't have the right hydraulic head to support the modified timing and advance.

 

[DavidWymore]

Yeah, I don't know how well changing the timing, etc. would work if the head injects less fuel. There is an old retired injection guru somewhere around my town, maybe I will track him down and see what he knows.

Guy on the FB M35A2 group just snagged a LDS 465 1A pump for $180.

 

[DavidWymore]

Adjusted the valves tonight. Most of them were a few thou tight, but 4, 5, and 6 exhaust were looser and looser, 6 being maybe 1/16" loose. I took some videos.

Purrs like a mountain lion now.

Oh oh and per the LDS troubleshooting manual no load test, 3,000 RPM. Zoinks!

About 70 psi at the final fuel filter. Fuel is ancient and nasty, pump is dead, still running on the rigged up 12v pump. Gotta clean fuel sys, change oil and filters, etc.

 

[rustystud]

Adjusted the valves tonight. Most of them were a few thou tight, but 4, 5, and 6 exhaust were looser and looser, 6 being maybe 1/16" loose. I took some videos.

Purrs like a mountain lion now.

Oh oh and per the LDS troubleshooting manual no load test, 3,000 RPM. Zoinks!

About 70 psi at the final fuel filter. Fuel is ancient and nasty, pump is dead, still running on the rigged up 12v pump. Gotta clean fuel sys, change oil and filters, etc.

You will save yourself a ton of grief by draining that fuel tank and changing filters as soon as possible ! Then I would add a good fuel additive. There are a ton of good additives on the market.
The fuel pressure is normal. Actually the pressure should not go over 60 psi, that's when the pressure relief should kick in, but your gauge could be off.

 

[DavidWymore]

I'm roughing it...gauge goes to 60, it was about 10 psi past that...I'm pretty sure the LDS is up to 75 or 80 psi. I think some of the booster pumps said 80 psi on them. Course mine supposedly isn't a LDS pump, but who knows, maybe an inj pump guy made it close to what it oughta be.
I'm happy, she runs purty darn good. Snuck down the road tonight. Godawful gear rattle in 1 and 5. Hopefully just that jacked up shifting crap in there.
Now that I know it runs decent and have a pretty good feeling it's gonna stay that way, next is all the maint, all the filters, fluids, fix water leaks, check injectors, fix exhaust leaks, do brakes...I got more to update but it's the middle of the night, I gotta go home and get cleaned up and go to bed! Gonna be draggin tomorrow, this Deuce Fever is liable to be the death of me.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Glad it is all coming together.

 

[DavidWymore]

Look in front of the turbo on the same area of the block that the dipstick is currently in now. There should be a pipe plug in the block. Remove it and put the dipstick there, then put the plug in the rear hole. Dipstick should come up just in front of the intake elbow.

Was gonna relocate dipstick, but block isn't tapped for dipstick in the forward boss, LDT block with LDS turbo...? More investigating required...



Oil leak down the side of the block looks like it's coming from the exh mani stud, there is an exh leak there. Maybe the studs penetrate the oil passage?

 

[DavidWymore]

 

[Another Ahab]

Was gonna relocate dipstick, but block isn't tapped for dipstick in the forward boss, LDT block with LDS turbo...? More investigating required...

Never heard anybody doing that before, but guess if you can, why not!?

 

[DavidWymore]

Never heard anybody doing that before, but guess if you can, why not!?

Something about relocating when a 5ton engine is put in a deuce. Flip oil pan around, etc. Gotta search it up unless I get lucky and somebody comes by and 'splains me. The guy with the big red bobber did it.

 

[DavidWymore]

Never heard anybody doing that before, but guess if you can, why not!?

Something about relocating when a 5ton engine is put in a deuce. Flip oil pan around, etc. The guy with the big red bobber did it.


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ring-The-Deuce-With-A-5-Ton-LDS-465-1A-Engine

 

[DavidWymore]

After reading that thread, it looks like mine is already in the "correct" forward position, but it ain't right. I can't get it alll the way down and screwed in, and if I pull it in or out with the engine running, I can feel the crank or something hitting it. It's bent and hits against the side of the oil pan going down in, which prevents me from screwing it in.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yeah your dipstick is in the right spot already. It shouldn't hit anything going in. There isn't anything there to hit unless the oil pan wasn't flipped or the pickup tubes are somehow improperly installed. The engine wouldn't fit if the oil pan wasn't flipped so, I don't know what to tell you.

Is the large sump in front of, or behind the axle? It should be in front.

 

[DavidWymore]

Well, this is embarrassing. It actually does fit. I just had to start it 180° from the way it was or wants to go in because it's kind of bent and force it in and I got to go all the way down and screw in. Sorry