20k Winch Hydraulic Drive Motor Cost

[74M35A2]

Looking to add a rear winch to my 925. Considering to mount the same front winch, at the rear, between the frame rails and just ahead of the last frame cross tie.

Have a decent lead on a winch, but it does not include a hydraulic motor. How much do these hydro motors typically sell for?

Unsure what category to post this question, have not seen any listed.

 

[Mike929]

I'm in the same boat, if you find a lead. I have the winchs, but need everything else to mount one on the front and possibly on the back.

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

You need to know the requirements of the winch to know what motor it needs... I have muncie books but need to know the specs ie how many ftlbs it needs for static and dynamic.

Winch make and model and serial # would be a good start..

 

[m16ty]

They aren't terribly expensive. First you need to find out what size you need, to find that out you need to know the torque required (in inch/lbs) to turn the input shaft.

Get a measurement of the winch drum diameter. Divide the drum dia by 2, then multiply than number by you desired line pull. Then divide that number by the winch gear ratio. After you do all that, you'll have the number in inch/lbs for the torque required to operate the winch. Most hyd motors have the torque ratings listed in inch/lbs.

You'll also want to figure out what line speed you're wanting. Line speed isn't as critical as torque as you can deal with it being a little slow but it's good to know what you're going to end up with.

 

[Csm Davis]

You need to know the requirements of the winch to know what motor it needs... I have muncie books but need to know the specs ie how many ftlbs it needs for static and dynamic.

Winch make and model and serial # would be a good start..

Uh... Garwood 20,000 what serial number?

They aren't terribly expensive. First you need to find out what size you need, to find that out you need to know the torque required (in inch/lbs) to turn the input shaft.

Get a measurement of the winch drum diameter. Divide the drum dia by 2, then multiply than number by you desired line pull. Then divide that number by the winch gear ratio. After you do all that, you'll have the number in inch/lbs for the torque required to operate the winch. Most hyd motors have the torque ratings listed in inch/lbs.

You'll also want to figure out what line speed you're wanting. Line speed isn't as critical as torque as you can deal with it being a little slow but it's good to know what you're going to end up with.

That's a lot of math, why not just buy one that is the same as the one on his front winch?

 

[m16ty]

That's a lot of math, why not just buy one that is the same as the one on his front winch?

Yea, you could buy a OEM motor but I'd be willing to bet it would cost a bunch compared to say one picked up at Northern Tool.

 

[Csm Davis]

Yea, you could buy a OEM motor but I'd be willing to bet it would cost a bunch compared to say one picked up at Northern Tool.

But if you know what motor it came with you don't need all that math to look up the specs of the one he already has. And didn't the OP ask what the original one cost? And I never said he should buy the OEM.

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

I use a char-lynn hydraulic motor on my M1028 winch.http://www.eaton.com/EN/Eaton/ProductsServices/ProductsbyName/Char-Lynn/index.htm

 

[Gunzy]

Do you already have a winch on the front? If so just put a switching valve on the front winch lines to switch from front to rear then you just need a switch control and all the other controls, pump, and control valve will run the rear winch also. Then you just have to select between front or rear with switching valve.

 

[Baradium]

Do you already have a winch on the front? If so just put a switching valve on the front winch lines to switch from front to rear then you just need a switch control and all the other controls, pump, and control valve will run the rear winch also. Then you just have to select between front or rear with switching valve.

He's not looking for a hydraulic pump, he needs the motor that is mounted to the winch to convert the hydraulic back to rotation.

 

[Gunzy]

He's not looking for a hydraulic pump, he needs the motor that is mounted to the winch to convert the hydraulic back to rotation.

My bad. Never mind then.

 

[slayden1]

I am looking to do the same on my 925A2 where would you get this switching valve? Could you just t off of high pressure line out of pump and use a log splitter type of valve for control? Looking to bed mount mine. I have the warn hoist winch off of 936. And a 40000. Neither one has a motor. Which one to use?

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Do you have electrical valves or mechanical valves?

If you have mechanical valves just get a multy gang valve... or if you have sectional valves add a spool.

I have a few valves in stock and could help if you want help but would need to know the in and out as well as port sizes on the valve your presently using... as an example I use a -16 on supply from pump to valve and then -10 from valve to motor and back and use a -16 again to exhaust back from valve to tank.

I am looking to do the same on my 925A2 where would you get this switching valve? Could you just t off of high pressure line out of pump and use a log splitter type of valve for control? Looking to bed mount mine. I have the warn hoist winch off of 936. And a 40000. Neither one has a motor. Which one to use?

 

[slayden1]

Really not sure a assume mechanical. Tower in cab engages pto. And controls winch in and out with biiggo levers. All plumbing is stock equipment looks to be two 1 inch lines running to winch from control tower in cab. I assume high pressure runs up to cab then the lever dictates which direction oil flows to motor out front.

 

[Gunzy]

There is a bi directional valve on the frame that is controlled by a cable from the in/out control. You would put a set of valves after that to tee into so the in/out control would operate the winch you choose. I would use mechanical valves there.

 

[slayden1]

Sorry for steering off course here. I thought this was relevant, for a dual winch thread. This sounds like a great way to hook up duals. Any information on this splitting valve would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone know the specifications for the warn 20000lb hoist winch motor. From a M936?

 

[74M35A2]

This thread can cease as far as the winch motor cost.

I am going to go the solenoid/manifold route to expand the hydraulic system. Otherwise, a 6 port 2-way diverter valve would allow one to chose which winch, and that would have to be placed after the directional control valve, as mentioned above.

 

[m16ty]

I am looking to do the same on my 925A2 where would you get this switching valve? Could you just t off of high pressure line out of pump and use a log splitter type of valve for control? Looking to bed mount mine. I have the warn hoist winch off of 936. And a 40000. Neither one has a motor. Which one to use?

A "tee" won't work. Everything has to be plumbed in series on a open center system. Here's a diagram of a open center system to give you a idea of the principle of operation- http://www.valvehydraulic.info/hydraulic-circuit-design/hydraulic-open-center-system.html

 

[slayden1]

Thanks that I makes complete sense to me. I am mechanicaly inclined but clueless about hydraulic theory. Where can I source the needed parts? Can someone list the exact valve I need. I can figure out the plumbing. Just need help with motor and valve. Thanks

 

[74M35A2]

I think you generically meant a tee. You'd simply use what is called a 6 port, 2 position diverter valve (or machinery selector valve), and place this after the directional control valve. Here is a $150 example that may be the exact part to use. In addition to this, you would need adapters to fit the hose ends, and a set of hoses to the second winch. Pretty simple. If not this valve, then another is ok, just make sure it is rated to a minimum of 25GPM and 1800psi. This valve just basically sends the fluid to the winch you choose. A tee would simply send the fluid to both at the same time, and it would take the path of least resistance, powering nothing. This one is a manual lever, but you could also get an electric solenoid version for about double the cost.

http://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...&ci_sku=2072&gclid=CMTApMWDscQCFZY2aQodrAEAYA