M923A2 dies when put in gear, especially forward

[ichudov]

I have a M923A2 truck. For the last few months, it sat, I would only start it occasionally to pump up the tires, did not move it when I did so. I started it at least once a month.

Now, I tried to drive it, and the engine would die if I put the transmission in gear. This happens instantly when I put it in forward, and not as quickly when I put it in reverse.

Any ideas as to why this could happen and what would be the proper troubleshooting approach.

Thanks

 

[BBQROD]

Does it seem like a torque stall or just like turning the engine off?

 

[R Racing]

Check and make sure that the transfer case is in high and that the button is all the way out on the handle.

 

[cabalaro]

1. check emergency shut off valve if that is completely rest
2. check fuel flow ie filter, strainer in tank if all that is good and fuel pressure is good
3. Check transmission operations

I found fuel problems can cause lack of power and shut down

 

[74M35A2]

Sounds like your torque converter may be locked up or stuck in that position. What is your idle speed in neutral?

 

[roalcoal]

I had the same problem. When you put it in gear can you keep it running by pushing down on the accelerator?

 

[Floridianson]

Check and make sure that the transfer case is in high and that the button is all the way out on the handle.

Yep just use some WD40 and spray into the button and work it in and out just like home. Your trans.lock up is just stuck in lockup because of the button on the range lever. The only outher thing that could /maybe happen is if the wire going out to the lock up sel. was grounded out compleating the circut. The wires that you see are just a ground circuit compleated by the range lever button. I bet it just needs so lube just don't use any type of grease stuff. WD40 is diaeletric or contack cleaner.

 

[Floridianson]

I had the same problem. When you put it in gear can you keep it running by pushing down on the accelerator?

No you fix the problem.

 

[roalcoal]

No you fix the problem.

Yes I fixed it. I could keep my truck running in gear but when I let off the throttle it would die in gear . I had to make an adjustment on my injection pump. You may have a different problem than I did

 

[mattwspeed]

we had one of our trucks do the same thing and we had to have the fuel pump rebuilt.. would run with the skinny pedal mashed but not idle in gear and die when put in gear if you didn't hold her to the floor.

 

[ichudov]

Does it seem like a torque stall or just like turning the engine off?

It feels more like turning the engine off, especially in forward.

 

[Floridianson]

5 bucks says it's the button on the range or button shorting out.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

I wouldn't bet against Floridianson!
It's normal operation for the engine to shut down suddenly when put into gear if the transfer case isn't in high or low properly. So could anyone else have been inside playing with your levers and got it between ranges? Or one of the safety switches or associated wiring could be at fault.

 

[Floridianson]

Well been wrong be for and cost me a lot more but. Seems like every thread has come back to that button that locks up the trans. and opens the interlock. My button/switch was stuck shut when I picked up my truck from Jax. and got lucky and it released. I used WD40 spraying it into the top of the button/switch and is now working well. When all is right and the trans. is in netrual you can just feel a little bunp when you press the button. Thats how I know it is working as maybe I do it four times in a row after spraying/cleaning and everytime I press the button I can feel just a little ever so slight bump when the converter locks up. There have been no reports of the wire grounding out I have seen yet or the lockup solenoid going bad but could happen.

 

[ichudov]

A little update. It does not seem to be "the button".

I put the engine into higher RPMs by pulling the THROTTLE cable, and switched from Neutral to "5". I felt a thump and the engine would die.

However, after several tries of this, the engine ceased to die, instead it clearly labored and its RPM would drop sharply, but it would stay running. If I push the throttle cable back in, the engine would die.

I made no attempt to drive and kept my foot on the brake.

 

[Floridianson]

I still say double check the button and or the wires for grounding out. Is the button all the way out? You might have to grab it with something and give it a little pull or rap on handel with something. The only outher thing if we keep on this heading would be to disconnect the wire at the transmission from the lock up solenoid.

You could try if you have a 24 volt test light or a multimeter put the ground clip of the test light on Positive of the battery and the needel end of the test light or the positive lead on the multimeter in the wires and check to see if both wires a showing ground. These wires are just like the horn wire where compleating the ground compleats the circuit and the solenoid goes to lockup. We only want one wire showing ground till we compleat the circuit. I not good at thoughts but hope I explaned it correct.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

A little update. It does not seem to be "the button".

I put the engine into higher RPMs by pulling the THROTTLE cable, and switched from Neutral to "5". I felt a thump and the engine would die.

However, after several tries of this, the engine ceased to die, instead it clearly labored and its RPM would drop sharply, but it would stay running. If I push the throttle cable back in, the engine would die.

I made no attempt to drive and kept my foot on the brake.

Not a good practice, you'll burn up your torque converter clutch if you keep that up.

 

[Floridianson]

 

[patracy]

I still say double check the button and or the wires for grounding out. Is the button all the way out? You might have to grab it with something and give it a little pull or rap on handel with something. The only outher thing if we keep on this heading would be to disconnect the wire at the transmission from the lock up solenoid.

You could try if you have a 24 volt test light or a multimeter put the ground clip of the test light on Positive of the battery and the needel end of the test light or the positive lead on the multimeter in the wires and check to see if both wires a showing ground. These wires are just like the horn wire where compleating the ground compleats the circuit and the solenoid goes to lockup. We only want one wire showing ground till we compleat the circuit. I not good at thoughts but hope I explaned it correct.

Speaking of test lights. I don't have a "24V" one. But I did find a LED test light at the parts store a while back. I've used it for MV testing almost exclusively. It's worked well. And honestly it was one of the "made in china bargain bin" tools. Just something for people to consider when shopping.

 

[Floridianson]

Just to speed things up just watch your wires and go under and disconnect both from the solenoid and come back and please tell me that worked . I can't aford to loose the 5 bucks as GL takes all my money.