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Calling all MEP-803A mechanics

jimbo913

Active member
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Maryland
Found MEP-803 with a few hundred hours and not sure if I should pass and look for one with no issues or not. I am new to these so I need to learn all the issues and fixes.
Seller states that start switch on panel only makes the starter click. Starts it using the secondary start switch after manually holding the electric fuel shut off. Where is secondary start switch and what wiuld cause that?

Also, I am not positive it is making power. Should the hertz gauge be working all the time if running? What does the AC interupter switch do? How often do the actual gen heads fail with low hours

I think that the issues must be minor and simple fixes but hate to spend money and have a motor but no generator.

oh and the linkage above the oil filter is tied back. Is that a fuel pump? Its a long way from me so trying to decide if its even worth checking out.

Thanks
 

R Racing

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St. Leonard, MD
Well I may be able to answer 2 of your questions. the other switch is in the engine compartment. and it should generate power at start up. that could have to do with the field not being flashed because its not starting from the primary switch. also could you provide state and town in your location. its da rules.
 

DieselAddict

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I agree with R Racing that the master switch is not flashing the field. After the engine is running you can throw the master to "START" and see if it flashes?

Do you have any photos of the unit you can post? Do you have the fuel cut solenoid like you see in this image (this is an 802 but similar)?

IMG_2178a.jpg
 

zarathustra

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glasgow,ky
The Hz gauge should be working even if the field isn't flashed. The unit is designed to develop a low AC voltage without flashing. That AC voltage is enough to trigger the HZ meter.

If it won't register on the HZ meter I'd suspect a serious stator problem. A serious stator problem could also be the result of a serious voltage regulator problem.

The AC interruptor is not related to the power generation scheme. It only controls the output of the generator to the load and acts like a circuit breaker.

Linkage being tied back -- if it is associated with the fuel shut off solenoid then I'd have to wonder why. And it would be interesting to see how the unit reacts to being shut down at the master switch.
 
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jimbo913

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Maryland
R Racing - Sorry I will get the location fixed. Working with a mobile device and its not so easy at times.
DieselAddict - It looks the same as in the photo. The part tied back was one with the rubber bellows.

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I was really concerned by the Hz gauge and its probably not worth the risk. The fuel issue is likely no big deal to resolve. I recently picked up a really nice 226hr Kohler industrial 4 cyl watercooled nat gas/propane 12kw (40+ kva starting power) multi phase 1800 rpm generator that is super quiet but after talking to the propane company my driveway is going to be an issue in the winter so that will be going up for sale and I am back in the maket for an 803A.

My search continues.. Found some nice deals on low hour units in Texas and Arkansas but thats just too far.
 

jimbo913

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Maryland
So, I was thinking and researching some more and if there was something wrong with the fuel pump and someone kept cranking it over would that increase voltage over the quad winding and fry the voltage regulator and/or stator?
This is assuming that the slow blow fuse upgrade had not been performed which is likely to be the case.

Anyone know when the fuse became standard issue on new units? Anyone know an easy way to tell if it is the voltage reg, stator or both, and cost to fix one or both?
 

DieselAddict

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I've not had the chance to work on a 803 yet so I'm not going to be able to offer much first hand info there.

What I can offer is that a Propane generator will eat a hole in your wallet that you WON'T like. I have a number of friends that have all found out about that the hard way. You will do yourself a favor to have a Diesel machine in the yard.

NG can be affordable but propane is not.
 

R Racing

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St. Leonard, MD
I haven't worked on a mep-803a but many other gens. Seems there are a number of them on here and owners who have worked thru there issues. I'm surprised there hasn't been more response on here about this ?
 

Glockfan

Member
274
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Location
Brigham City, Utah
It kills me to hear folks who have no clue giving advice to run away from the TQG's. Let me guess, find an air cooled unit made in the early 80's right? I have had PERSONAL experience with these sets running in the most austere conditions on the planet and watched them produce clean power for literally THOUSANDS of hours. So, with that said, buy what you want but take any negative advice you may receive about the 80xa with a grain of salt.
 

CDR

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new york
It kills me to hear folks who have no clue giving advice to run away from the TQG's. Let me guess, find an air cooled unit made in the early 80's right? I have had PERSONAL experience with these sets running in the most austere conditions on the planet and watched them produce clean power for literally THOUSANDS of hours. So, with that said, buy what you want but take any negative advice you may receive about the 80xa with a grain of salt.
I have had several of both. The TQG when they run they run great and are silent. But when they have an issue forget it. Mine has a black box issue some times it works other days it doesn't want to. All my wires are chaffed on the metal... fuel aux system totally not functional fuel gauge doesn't work. A good percentage of them are filled up with water. Let not forget either how much lister Peter parts cost I spend $150 on gaskets.

The Mep00x yes I get it it was built in the 80's but they run fantastic and no one will disagree with me on that. It's a fact they have less issues and less components to go wrong.

I still have my 802. But I rather use my 002. Would I buy another 802 or a 803 yes. But there no way I would spend $3500 dollars on one. It's the price that kills me of I'm going to get my balls broken by a generator there no way I'm spending that sort of money.
 

Glockfan

Member
274
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18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
The 802's are becoming affordable. As these units are lifecycled out of service, parts and availability will increase. Cost will come down. I may be able to help you with parts. PM me.
 

jimbo913

Active member
281
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Location
Maryland
When are the 803's going out of service and will they flood the market with units driving down the price once they are out of service?
Anyone know what replaces it? What kills me are the guys paying $3500+ at auction and getting burned by bad gen heads or water filled engines. If too many people screw themselves on bad deals maybe that will reduce the prices.
 

CDR

New member
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Location
new york
When are the 803's going out of service and will they flood the market with units driving down the price once they are out of service?
Anyone know what replaces it? What kills me are the guys paying $3500+ at auction and getting burned by bad gen heads or water filled engines. If too many people screw themselves on bad deals maybe that will reduce the prices.
Seems like a deep gamble with the 802-803 more then the 002-003. You either hit a home run with the 802-803 or a total strike out. What happened to the guy on the form that was rebuilding 3 of them at the same time? All 3 where trash and he paid stupid money for parts to fix them from lister peter.

All it comes down to is people are braver then me. I'll gamble $1500 on a clean mep803 but not $3500 on one
 

zarathustra

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glasgow,ky
The 802/3 units are pretty good, reliable machines. The biggest problem with them is that they are more technically advanced than their forebears and require a different (another) set of skills to keep running correctly. And because of the current cost and availability of certain parts it makes en masse replacement of parts to fix a problem impractical and not cost effective.


It's just like the difference between a 2015 corvette and a 1954 corvette in terms of the skills involved in keeping them going properly.

And when the next generation generators come up on GL in around 15 or so years, people will be saying how easy the 802/3 generators were to work on, 'cause they didn't have all of the touch screens, wireless technology, and software control that the 'new' ones have.
 
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Glockfan

Member
274
16
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
The 802/3 units are pretty good, reliable machines. The biggest problem with them is that they are more technically advanced than their forebears and require a different (another) set of skills to keep running correctly. And because of the current cost and availability of certain parts it makes en masse replacement of parts to fix a problem impractical and not cost effective.


It's just like the difference between a 2015 corvette and a 1954 corvette in terms of the skills involved in keeping them going properly.

And when the next generation generators come up on GL in around 15 or so years, people will be saying how easy the 802/3 generators were to work on, 'cause they didn't have all of the touch screens, wireless technology, and software control that the 'new' ones have.
My thoughts exactly... A pretty good analogy using the Corvettes.
 

cuad4u

Active member
268
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Location
St Matthews, SC
I may as well throw in my $0.02. I am not one of the experts on this site but I have restored and sold around 25 002A and 003A generators, with NO complaints. I kept two 002A's and two 003A's for my personal use. I think I know them fairly well.

A few months ago I acquired one 802A and one 803A. The 802A had been "reset" (completely rebuilt to as-new condition). It looks and runs as new and has 12 hours on the meter. It still has a tag attached to the red emergency shut-off knob reminding me to change the "break-in" oil after 30 hours use. The 803A is clean but well used and came with 1494 hours on the meter. It starts and runs well but the % power meter does not work. I tested the % power meter and the meter is OK. Just to be sure I changed out the original % power meter with another one. Still no indication even though I am drawing 40 amps at 240V. Instead of doing major trouble shooting to find out why the % power meter does not work, decided to install one of the digital volt / amp meters offered by a regular on this site. More on this below.

When comparing the generators IMO the 002A and 003A are a simpler design and they are easier to work on because they are modular. The 802A and 803A are not modular and (IMO) are a much more complicated design and much harder to get to the "innards" for maintenance and repair. That is why I gave up on trouble shooting the cause of the % power meter not working and decided to install one of the replacement digital volt / amp gauges. I have installed identical digital gauges on the 002A and 003A. Doing so on the 802A and / or 803A is many times more complicated (at least the first time around) because of all the work involved to get to the "innards" of the generator (accessing, unbolting, and removing L3 to install the current transformer and reinstalling same is a bear). The 802A an 803A are MUCH quieter than the 002A and 003A. One of my 003A's has the ASK which makes it much quieter than the "open" 003A without ASK, but no where as quiet as the 802A or the 803A. Since I live in the middle of 700 acres and have no neighbors, noise is not an issue, but it may be for some urban dwellers. All four generators will produce rated power until the cows come home. However the 002A and 003A definitely have a lot more reserve capacity than the 802A and 803A.

From my measurements either of my 002A's will load test 8000 watts resistive for 30 minutes with no problem. When I increased the load to 8500 watts the engine noticeably labored but generator did not quit but after about 5 minutes the engine overheat sensor shut the generator engine down. This was in 90F weather. Since the 002A is air cooled it probably would have load tested 8500 watts OK in winter weather. One of my 002A generators will start and run a 2.5 ton heat pump while the main breaker on the other one will open before the heat pump starts - go figure. Either of my 003A generators will load test 13,500 watts resistive for as long as you care the run them or until the water boils. I use water heater elements immersed in a plastic 55 gallon drum of water as my load tester. Both 003A's will load test at 15,000 watts for a couple of minutes without any complaints. I think the 003A's would load test a bit higher than 15,000 watts for a short time, but that is all the water heater elements I have.

My 802A will load test 5000 watts all day. It seems happy load tested up to about 6500 watts, which is about 130% rated capacity, but any more and the engine seems to labor and it starts emitting noticeable black smoke from the exhaust. I did not try to increase the load beyond 6500 watts. My 803A will load test 10,000 all day but it starts to noticeably labor at 12,500 watts, which is about 125% capacity.

From my tests all four generators will provide rated capacity for weeks or months at a time, but the 002A and 003A seem to have a greater reserve capacity for overload and are much easier to access and work on. Of course I do not recommend overloading any generator but that is the results of my tests.

I hope this helps.
 
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