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Fuel Issues - No Start
- Thread starter 7Dust
- Start date
welldigger
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You got it. If you can get the hh off the injector pump is no worse. Same idea. Line the timing marks up and unbolt.NO Hammers needed to remove IP, correct?
I have been trying to understand the technical manuals and dozens of posts on the subject.
Do I need to pull the valve cover to make sure I am aligning the engine on the correct stroke?
OR - since the injection pump I am removing is properly timed to the engine is there an easier way to make sure it is aligned before removing?
Do I need to pull the valve cover to make sure I am aligning the engine on the correct stroke?
OR - since the injection pump I am removing is properly timed to the engine is there an easier way to make sure it is aligned before removing?
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Its better if you do.
welldigger
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Go ahead and remove the valve cover and verify the #1 valves are closed. It's one extra step that can save you a lot of headaches.
This is where the timing mark under the 4 bolt cover on the ip comes into play. Along with the mark on the harmonic balancer.
Thats what I was getting at - I am removing a known timed injection pump (only the head is out of time since the quill shaft broke).
If I align the harmonic balancer and the mark under the cover is aligned - then I should be on correct engine stroke?
If I gotta pull the valve cover I will but ****. I'm tired of breakin stuff.
If I align the harmonic balancer and the mark under the cover is aligned - then I should be on correct engine stroke?
If I gotta pull the valve cover I will but ****. I'm tired of breakin stuff.
RAYZER
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Look through the oil fill cap,when the #2 intake valve is open and the timing mark on the harmonic balance lined up that's compression stroke tdc.
RAYZER
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These pics show where the timing marks are on a timed pump when the red tooth is lined up for hh remove and install. (on compression stroke).
I'm taking the injection pump off, should be same deal?
welldigger
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Go ahead and pull the radiator. You will thank me when it comes time to reinstall the ip.
You're gonna tell me the fender has to come off too, huh?
welldigger
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Haha actually no. At least I didn't when I pulled my pump to have it rebuilt.
Reason being for the radiator is the pump drive gear. There's no good way to get at it with the radiator in place.
Csm Davis
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Just pull the whole front clip, it makes all of it much easier, and pull the front wheels and set the axle down on the ground so you can reach everything, oh and because the steering box is in the way pull the motor and set it up on a stand, that should be good. 
It's all about time versus ease of access.
It's all about time versus ease of access.
Csm Davis
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If you want to turn the engine just a little without removing anything put the transfer case in Neutral and the transmission in 4th or 5th and use a pry bar to rotate the drive shaft to move the motor.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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You can get the IP in w/o pulling the rad. Would I recommend pulling it? YES! Especially if your working on your own.
The King Machine
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The Rad is 4 blots and a couple hoses. Took me 20min to remove it. Well worth the effort.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Was that left handed blots or right hand?
Big problem with replacing the injection pump is finding another injection pump.
FINALLY think I have one - just picked up a "new" reman off Fleabay for $575 shipped. Ouch!
The other vendors wanted a thousand bucks for the same unit so will see if my frugality paid off.
FINALLY think I have one - just picked up a "new" reman off Fleabay for $575 shipped. Ouch!
The other vendors wanted a thousand bucks for the same unit so will see if my frugality paid off.
rustystud
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The only problem with eBay is that there is almost no accountability for the product. Was it truly rebuilt ? who knows, but you'll soon find out. That is why I would take my pump into a local service shop that deals with injection pumps. If it is not working right you can always take it back and scream at the manager !
I once bought a tilt steering column for my 1984 Chev 1 ton on eBay. The guy said he cleaned and rebuilt everyone. So I paid the $300.00 dollars since a wrecking yard one went for $150.00. When I got it I found out that none of the parts had been replaced just cleaned ! I could have bought the junk yard one and cleaned it myself for half the price ! Oh and eBays return policy is not all that cut and dried either ! Just saying.