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Parking Brake Cable Adjusting Thread Specs Needed

SteveKuhn

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I need to replace the nut (2) on transfer case end end of the parking brake cable. I know the TM shows a unique nut but I'd like to try to replace it with something fairly standard. None from my odd collection fit.

Can someone provide the size and thread pitch (1)?

Also, the TM suggests that the adjustment should begin from a point marked on the cable. Mine is old and there's no mark. About how far in should that be?

Thanks.

Steve
 

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cattlerepairman

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I can't help you on the thread type and pitch. I seem to remember that it was nothing special, at least not on the aftermarket replacement cable I installed. Maybe that pic helps:

http://thumbs2.picclick.com/d/w1600...RGENCY-BRAKE-CABLE-FOR-25-TON-M35A2-M35A3.jpg


As far as adjustment goes, assuming you have the newer style brake handle with the adjustment knob, you need to screw the cable attachment point almost fully down (to the "relaxed" position). Then tighten the adjustment nut at the threaded end of the cable until the cable starts to become tight but does not yet actuate the lever. Apply the brake. The lever should move to the park position with a little resistance and lock into place. The parking brake should be tight. If either one is not the case, adjust the nut on the threaded end and leave the adjustment knob on the lever for "fine tuning".
 

bonedoc

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Steve,

I'm getting ready to install new shoes on my parking brake and recently read the TM. There isn't a mark on the cable but rather you are supposed to mark the cable before removing the nut and use that as a reference.

The TM I have is 9-2320-361-24-1. Gives you everything on how to adjust them.

Don't know if that helps.
 

Scar59

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Mark/measure, or count the exposed threads before disassembly. The nut is rather special, is has a round face that mates with the lever arm, helps with centering of the cable, also has self locking feature.
 

Woodsplinter

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Mark/measure, or count the exposed threads before disassembly. The nut is rather special, is has a round face that mates with the lever arm, helps with centering of the cable, also has self locking feature.
When I replaced my cable, I could not get that weird nut off. I cut it off and replaced it with a washer and two standard hex nuts tightened against each other. Has been working fine for about a year.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
The cable is 5/16" X 24 pitch (fine thread) . I had a horrible time taking mine off, so after I got it all apart I ground down the top part ( where the threads get pinched) and just used a "nylock" nut as a jam nut. This way I was able to run the special nut down to where I wanted it and then tightened the nylock down after. Works great. As far as adjusting this type of brake, "cattlerepairman" had it pretty good. I always unscrew the handle all the way out, then apply the brake (it will of course be loose) . Then I tighten the special nut until the lever is almost all the way tight ( brakes are applied pretty good). Then I release the brake and adjust the handle until I get it where I want it to be. You want it to be able to hold the truck against 1st gear with lite throttle, but still be able to release the truck to roll. The adjustment at the handle is for the operator to be able to take up the slack as the brakes wear.
 

SteveKuhn

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Hasbrouck Heights NJ
Rusty pretty much nailed my primary question with the specs and Woodsplinter has already done what I had in mind if I can't get the correct nut. There's no way to pre-measure the nut position when there's no nut, so Rusty's positioning method seems like a good place to start on the way to trying to match up to the feeler specs in the TM.

Thanks to all for responding.

Steve
 
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