I Want to replace my leaking IP, Or get it re-built.

[mhb285]

Had to relocate my truck to my new storage location at the old El Toro USMC base RV storage yard. about a 8 mile drive. It had just started dripping oil from the rear main seal before that. When I got there it was leaking from the front of the oil pan & the rear main seal. Checked the dip stick. It was very full. The oil pressure coming over had dropped down to 30PSI. Crap! flooded with diesel fuel.
I know its the IP. The IP has always had an issue with being a little wet with oil. I'd like to replace it or at the very least take if off & send it out to be re-built.
I'm looking for a how to on this. Yes I looked it up here and didn't find anything. I don't think getting it off will be a problem. But I want to put it back on after its re-built without screwing everything up.
Any suggestion's?
Thanks
Mike

 

[gimpyrobb]

Check post #70 here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...l-5-o-clock-position-when-cover-removed/page7

 

[mhb285]

This is the timing mark that I have to line up with, right?
Thanks

 

[gimpyrobb]

No, that is not.


Where did that come from? I have never seen those marks on a M35. Can you get a pic from father back so I can see where it came from?

 

[mhb285]

I don't have a better picture at this time. Is this one I've attached the correct timing marks? Right between the 2 lines?
Thanks

 

[gimpyrobb]

One of those lines will say LDT/LDS, that is the line you want to use. The pointer to line the mark up with, is on the other side of the motor.

It is a peg sticking out of the timing cover. Let me see if I can find a pic.

1st pic is what I was talking about.
second pic is IP advance timing mark. 4 bolt window just in front of hyd head.
Last pic is looking into a mirror at hydr head. You want to be able to see the red/scored tooth, but it isn't supposed to be lined up with anything.

 

[ClintA]

When I replaced mine, I took the front valve cover off and put it on top dead center and like gimpyrobb said there is a pointer located driver side that you need to locate.

 

[mhb285]

I flipped the pix & zoomed in. I see the LD/LDS line. I also found the pointer on the left side of the engine. took off the injector lines today. I might replace all of them. Got the remanufactured IP from AMBAC, came with


a 1yr warranty. Do I need do place dust covers on the new lines?
Thanks

 

[rustystud]

I flipped the pix & zoomed in. I see the LD/LDS line. I also found the pointer on the left side of the engine. took off the injector lines today. I might replace all of them. Got the remanufactured IP from AMBAC, came with


a 1yr warranty. Do I need do place dust covers on the new lines?View attachment 563842
Thanks

The covers help keep crap off the line nuts, so next time you have to take one off you can still get your wrench in there.

 

[jbayer]

I flipped the pix & zoomed in. I see the LD/LDS line. I also found the pointer on the left side of the engine. took off the injector lines today. I might replace all of them. Got the remanufactured IP from AMBAC, came with


a 1yr warranty. Do I need do place dust covers on the new lines?View attachment 563842
Thanks

You don't "NEED" to, but I would if I had all my Injector lines off. And just like rusty said, "The covers help keep crap off the line nuts, so next time you have to take one off you can still get your wrench in there."
You don't want water, mud etc. accumulating around those nuts, causing them to become rusted to the lines, or have dirt fall in the H.H., if you have to remove the lines in the future.

 

[Floridianson]

When I replaced mine, I took the front valve cover off and put it on top dead center and like gimpyrobb said there is a pointer located driver side that you need to locate.

You need to ask Gimpy to again show the trick he found so you do not have to remove the valve cover. Saves time.

 

[gimpyrobb]

James, I have found that not all motors have those dots on the gears to indicate TDC. I don't have any pics of that, do you?

 

[Floridianson]

You said open valve cover oil fill look at the valve you can see that is to the back side of the fill hole and when it is down or open the HB is TDC for #1 and advance timing marks are correct. You did not have to watch #1 intake drop to find #1 TDC. Keeps from dirt or crap and time taking off valve cover.

 

[rustystud]

You said open valve cover oil fill look at the valve you can see that is to the front side of the fill hole and when it is down or open the HB and advance timing marks are correct. You did not have to watch #1 intake drop to find #1 TDC. Keeps from dirt or crap and time taking off valve cover.

Good trick !

 

[gimpyrobb]

Oh yeah! The only good pic shows the vales right below the opening, but you should be able to peer in with a good flashlight and see the front ones.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea I was wrong when looking down the rabbit hole it would be the valve to the rear so I corrected my post. sorry
Here you can see #2 cylinder exhaust just dropping.

 

[mhb285]

I got the remanufactured IP installed & replaced all the lines to the injectors with new ones. I've got everything else connected or reattached & set the timing according to the pictures that Gimp posted on the first page for my LTD-465-D... won't fire...
Do I need to bleed all the injectors?.....

 

[welldigger]

When you timed your pump did you have the timing mark lined up under the square cover AND have the red/scored tooth visible under the shutoff cover?

The red tooth does NOT need to be lined up with its pointer. Just visible in the window.

I ask because you may have the ip 180°out of time.

 

[welldigger]

Also for future reference if your pulling a correctly timed ip off of an engine then you just need to line up the ip timing mark, make sure the red tooth is visible under the shut off cover, and verify the harmonic balancer timing mark.

If all of that is in order your ready to swap pumps.

 

[mhb285]

Did That just like in the pix that Gimpyrobb attached on the 1st page of this post. I didn't however purge the lines at the injectors of air... I assumed that cranking over would push the fuel into the injectors.... I'm kinda thinking this is the issue.