M35 no lights

[Kaiser67M715]

I have an M35 Gasser, and I have NO lights, BO or otherwise. checked grounds at turn-signals/parking lights, passenger headlight(drivers is still out gonna convert to H3's haven't done yet), and the BO headlight.

I am starting to think that my three way switch is faulty or dead. is there a way to test it? or is a test by replacement only?

I am thinking that the lightswitch was blown when a fire destroyed the original harness, I installed a new one, one that I added turn-signal wires to. so I have no clue if the turn-signal stalk works, or if even the flasher module works(replaced with a Newstar brand one), so the only thing that is untested in the light system is the light switch and signal stalk

thanks for any input

 

[dmetalmiki]

Well if that were me, I would be tempted to take a hot wire straight from the battery, and run it something/anything going in the direction of lights, switch. or accessories. I have a hot wire tester with a (very) sharp point which I can insert into any wire (or contact) to make it Live. Just a suggestion, let us know the outcome and fix of the fault. If that is a new wiring set up, maybe a main feed wire is out of the loop. Hence "hot prodding" to get something working.

 

[rchalmers3]

I'd definitely probe the light switch for power and grounds. At the switch is also a good place to jumper the various lights with a temporary hot lead from the switch harness of from another battery source. Pull the connector from the switch and probe it with a test light to find out if there is power there.

The TM's have the wiring broken out into wire numbers that are hopefully coded on the wire harness you replaced.

Let us know what you uncover,
Rick

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I'll need to invest in a 24v test light, but I did pull the light switch, I am gonna try to run 12 volts through it, and see if I can get anything on the switch itself. I will either buy or make my own test light to test the vehicle side if the switch seems fine.

whole harness was coded, and any wires I added for the turn-signals got the metal tags as well, so everything should be correctly marked.

 

[papakb]

Test Probe

I found a nice, long (10") sharp pointed probe at Harbor Freight pretty cheap and installed a 10-30v LED festoon light in it so that I can use it on either 12 or 24v vehicles. The extra length has come in handy on several occasions but I did put a piece of shrink tubing over about half of the probe to prevent accidentally shorting it to something else..

Kurt
KG6KMJ

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well...I am a complete dunce, don't have the circuit breaker for the lights, switch the plugs for horn, wa-la! Lights....so on the search for some Douglas circuit breakers

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well...I am a complete dunce, don't have the circuit breaker for the lights, switch the plugs for horn, wa-la! Lights....so on the search for some Douglas circuit breakers

Huh?

 

[Kaiser67M715]

ok, I found I had no power to the light switch, and going off my wiring diagram, the lights pull power from 15, and is branched with the horns, number 25, but I was looking at the wires, I found had an extra set, kind of tucked behind the main harness as it comes out of the firewall-never plugged them in, because I only had the one circuit breaker, and that was all I pulled from the truck originally, was one circuit breaker.(I used a new one) so it never occurred to me- plus I forgot about that set- that the lights and horns run through separate breakers. my wiring diagram from my 1955 manual has the lights and horn running off of 1- 15amp breaker, and then depending on model, there is a breaker for auxiliary power(30 amp), and also spot lights(25 amp)

 

[gimpyrobb]

I seem that makes perfect sense. Thank you.