Rear lug nut removal question.

[SoylentGreen]

Can't find a clear answer on this. Using a Ken-tool geared lug wrench on the left rear (M35A2 dual wheel) do I rotate the smaller gear clock-wise or counter clock-wise to remove the outer lug nut? And yes, I know it's righty loosey. Lug nuts were installed at a truck shop several years ago, no doubt with a big ass pneumatic wrench.

 

[jbayer]

Righty loosey on the RIGHT side.
Lefty loosey on the LEFT side.

 

[M215]

Any chance the entire hub assembly could have been reversed? Maybe a RH hub ended up on the drivers side, look for the L & R on the square ends of the bud thimble thingy's. .

 

[SoylentGreen]

Left hand studs are marked "L" and lug nuts are marked "Left". Left hand threads loosen clock-wise.

 

[SoylentGreen]

So, with the lug nuts needing to be turned clock-wise, do I push the bar with the arrow or against?

 

[Castle Bravo]

So, with the lug nuts needing to be turned clock-wise, do I push the bar with the arrow or against?

Against the arrow - Turn the bar clockwise and it will turn the outer nut clockwise.

 

[silverstate55]

Budd nuts always tighten to the front of the vehicle, and loosen to the rear...

 

[DJones]

Against the arrow - Turn the bar clockwise and it will turn the outer nut clockwise.

 

[jbayer]

Um, I think when using the bar in the small hole as in geared reduction, you turn it opposite of the direction it needs to go.
Turning the bar clock wise will turn the lug nut counter clock wise, and vice versa.
With the bar through both holes, you would turn clockwise for LH side, and counter clockwise for RH side, assuming RH threads on RH, LH threads on LH.
You would turn it in the direction of the arrow for left handed lug nuts.
See PS article

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=483620&d=1395270716

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Um, I think when using the bar in the small hole as in geared reduction, you turn it opposite of the direction it needs to go.
Turning the bar clock wise will turn the lug nut counter clock wise, and vice versa.
With the bar through both holes, you would turn clockwise for LH side, and counter clockwise for RH side, assuming RH threads on RH, LH threads on LH.
You would turn it in the direction of the arrow for left handed lug nuts.
See PS article

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=483620&d=1395270716

Not sure why the PS magazine article states that but that's not how it works in my experience. The same thing has been mentioned in other geared lug wrench threads.

 

[jbayer]

IDK, if the gear on the right side is turned clockwise, then the gear on the left is going to go counterclockwise.
I'm not thinking the PS article is wrong.

 

[rustystud]

IDK, if the gear on the right side is turned clockwise, then the gear on the left is going to go counterclockwise.
I'm not thinking the PS article is wrong.

You must remember that the inner lug nut (square head) is not moving. The housing of the wrench must turn counter clockwise (left side of truck) that means the smaller gear must also turn counter clockwise thus walking the wrench housing around the inner shaft which is attached to the square lug nut. When removing the inner lug nut you lock the two gears together with the bar and again turn counter clockwise ( left side of truck ).

 

[Castle Bravo]

IDK, if the gear on the right side is turned clockwise, then the gear on the left is going to go counterclockwise.
I'm not thinking the PS article is wrong.

The gear on the right doesn't turn when used as pictured in SoylentGreen's photo, it is fixed to the thimble. When the small gear turns, it travels about the larger gear, taking the outer portion of the entire tool with it, spinning the lugnut while keeping the thimble stationary. This also provides the same advantage of the "porkchop" tool in preventing the thimble from loosening from the stud before the lugnut loosens from the thimble. This happens so long as the larger gear does not turn. There is supposed to be a larger "reaction" bar that extends to the ground, further immobilizing the thimble. I have found that most of the time, on a rear dual application, the tool can be used without the reaction bar.

On a front lug nut (or any wheel without a thimble, such any single wheel) application, the reaction bar must be used or the larger gear will rotate.

The gears do spin opposite directions - any two gears meshing together have to, but in this case, one gear is stationary.

 

[Castle Bravo]

The way the PS article shows to do it is not how I've operated the tool. I've always removed the outer lug nuts and then the outer wheel, followed by the thimbles and then the inner wheel. I think trying to get in a position where you have the thimble and lugnut loose and still have the outer wheel held between them is a bad idea.

Its like the writer of the PS mag article was under the impression that you can apply the gear reduction power to the thimble - I don't think there is any way to do this, much less if the lugnut is already loose?