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What did you do to your deuce this week?

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
Before Iola (2nd week of August) I need to get done the following: remove flame heater, bypass FDC, adjust valves, pull apart hubs and service, change oil, change pumpkin fluid, install remote brake reservoir, install battery cut off, install lighted license plate frame, and install 12v alternator and fuse panel.......yee haw!
 

DevRev

Member
49
0
6
Location
KY
Before Iola (2nd week of August) I need to get done the following: remove flame heater, bypass FDC, adjust valves, pull apart hubs and service, change oil, change pumpkin fluid, install remote brake reservoir, install battery cut off, install lighted license plate frame, and install 12v alternator and fuse panel.......yee haw!
Why are you removing the flame heater and bypassing fdc?
 

DevRev

Member
49
0
6
Location
KY
Both can be sources of issues. I like the idea of eliminating possible issues. Especially on things that are of no use to me.
Thank you. I know what the flame heater is and as I understand it, earlier models had flame heaters and later ones had ether start. I'll need to research about the fdc.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
555
113
Location
Davis County, UT
Previously this year I had installed an NPT block heater in my deuce's water pump, of course I saved the plug that I removed from the said water pump.

Well, a couple weeks ago when we were installing a sprinkler system in my yard, we were short some pieces and wanted to test a section but we needed to cap where a hose bib would go.

Said water pump plug to the "rescue"!

It always makes me laugh to think about the string of events that led from a truck being built and over 40 years later a part from it's engine (even if just temporarily) being used on someone's lawn. :lol:

2015-06-20 18.59.14 HDR.jpg
 

daytonatrbo

Member
320
3
18
Location
Tricities, TN
Both can be sources of issues. I like the idea of eliminating possible issues. Especially on things that are of no use to me.

How does bypassing the FDC affect the "multifuel" possibilities? Could I still run WVO or waste engine oil? I'm not real keen on running gasoline anyway, but if you mix enough oil with it, it seems that you can run it even in a standard diesel in an emergency.
 

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
How does bypassing the FDC affect the "multifuel" possibilities? Could I still run WVO or waste engine oil? I'm not real keen on running gasoline anyway, but if you mix enough oil with it, it seems that you can run it even in a standard diesel in an emergency.
Daytonatrbo,

Welcome aboard!

Your question about multifuel capability is discussed at length on this site; please take a little time to look around for answers to things like that before starting a new redundant thread or topic. Some folks get real touchy about that (something about rules). The short answer is that the FDC is there to try and give a consistent pedal “feel” and response with a wide variety of fuels. If you stick to a similar blend or type of fuel it makes no difference (to feel or multifuel capability). I’ll get back into my choices of fuels below.

If you bypass the FDC you should add a thermocouple (pyrometer) in the exhaust to monitor EGT’s. My setup has a pyro and boost gage. I recommend getting this installed before you bypass the FDC so that you get an idea of how the EGT’s behave before making modifications. JATonka has a very nice write up on his web site. His site has lots of other info, including TM’s. I downloaded all of the TM’s I could find from here, JATonka, XM381, etc. I’ve bypassed my FDC and not touched the adjustments.

I’ve been heating WVO and WMO, running through a PA Biodiesel centrifuge, and then a NAPA 3674 2-micro rated filter. I find that either give lower noise than #2 with 15-20% BIO (all we can get here in the NW). I think both start more sluggish than #2 in warm weather and it hasn’t gotten cold yet while I’ve been doing this. My plan is to run WVO in the Summer and WMO in the Winter depending on my supplies. I find that WVO and WMO smoke the same as #2 (or perhaps less?). I add about 20% #2 to keep them thinned out. I think power is a little lower with WVO, yet I think the truck runs best on WMO! Yes, I think it runs nicer on WMO than with #2. My blend of WMO is a mix of engine oil, gear oil, ATF, etc. Waste ATF in the WMO is great! My 2 cents. I plan to make a Youtube video or my setup and post it when I have the time…

I also highly recommend giving your brake system a once over, starting with MC, air pac, and wheel cylinders. There a great thread here on the front axle StepXStep and peashooter has a great thread with brake part info. As a part of this, dump the axle vents as they are known to plug up and cause a blast of gear oil and grease to get blown out all over you brakes. I ran a ¼ inch line around to properly vent all axles, the TC, and transmission.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:

daytonatrbo

Member
320
3
18
Location
Tricities, TN
Daytonatrbo,

Welcome aboard!

Your question about multifuel capability is discussed at length on this site; please take a little time to look around for answers to things like that before starting a new redundant thread or topic. Some folks get real touchy about that (something about rules). The short answer is that the FDC is there to try and give a consistent pedal “feel” and response with a wide variety of fuels. If you stick to a similar blend or type of fuel it makes no difference (to feel or multifuel capability). I’ll get back into my choices of fuels below.

If you bypass the FDC you should add a thermocouple (pyrometer) in the exhaust to monitor EGT’s. My setup has a pyro and boost gage. I recommend getting this installed before you bypass the FDC so that you get an idea of how the EGT’s behave before making modifications. JATonka has a very nice write up on his web site. His site has lots of other info, including TM’s. I downloaded all of the TM’s I could find from here, JATonka, XM381, etc. I’ve bypassed my FDC and not touched the adjustments.

I’ve been heating WVO and WMO, running through a PA Biodiesel centrifuge, and then a NAPA 3674 2-micro rated filter. I find that either give lower noise than #2 with 15-20% BIO (all we can get here in the NW). I think both start more sluggish than #2 in warm weather and it hasn’t gotten cold yet while I’ve been doing this. My plan is to run WVO in the Summer and WMO in the Winter depending on my supplies. I find that WVO and WMO smoke the same as #2 (or perhaps less?). I add about 20% #2 to keep them thinned out. I think power is a little lower with WVO, yet I think the truck runs best on WMO! Yes, I think it runs nicer on WMO than with #2. My blend of WMO is a mix of engine oil, gear oil, ATF, etc. Waste ATF in the WMO is great! My 2 cents. I plan to make a Youtube video or my setup and post it when I have the time…

I also highly recommend giving your brake system a once over, starting with MC, air pac, and wheel cylinders. There a great thread here on the front axle StepXStep and peashooter has a great thread with brake part info. As a part of this, dump the axle vents as they are known to plug up and cause a blast of gear oil and grease to get blown out all over you brakes. I ran a ¼ inch line around to properly vent all axles, the TC, and transmission.

Good luck!


Brian,

Thank you for the detailed post. I have been meaning to search on the FDC topic, I don't mean to step on any toes.

I'll take your maintenance advice to heart. I'm not sure what the brakes are "meant" to feel like on these trucks, but the one I have been driving most seems like it could have more. Certainly though, they do stop the truck when I need them. I try to use the engine to assist with decel as much as possible.

I did notice that the air leaks down rapidly on my m109. The only leak I can hear seems to be coming from the area around the airpac.

Both my trucks have the characteristic light oil stain on the inside of the front wheels indicating a bit of axle leak. I'm sure clearing the vents would help minimize that until I can get the seals out.


Unfortunately, I have had zero time to do any work on the trucks so far. I'm driving them as little as possible until I can at least properly inspect the brakes and fluid levels.

I've made 2 trips to the dump with the "pickup" and the 109 hasn't left the yard so far.


I'm definitely interested in running WMO as I always seems to have at least 10-20 gallons on hand, and that will only go up as I start maintaining the trucks.

I'll look into a filtration system.


Thanks!
 

212sparky

Well-known member
1,822
38
48
Location
Monroe/ Ohio
Drove mine to work. Had to pull our line truck out of the mud. We buried it to the axles in a storm tuesday night. She didn't even strain dragging the 36,000 pound truck out of the mud. Also got a full tank of diesel out of it. Saved the boss a $1500 recovery bill.
 

Seth_O

Member
625
7
18
Location
Sac CA
Drove mine to work. Had to pull our line truck out of the mud. We buried it to the axles in a storm tuesday night. She didn't even strain dragging the 36,000 pound truck out of the mud. Also got a full tank of diesel out of it. Saved the boss a $1500 recovery bill.
Pics or it didn't happen......
 

The King Machine

Active member
396
92
28
Location
Vancouver, British Columbia
One Friday on the way home from work I stopped and pulled a tri axle hiab truck and pup trailer out of some sand. The driver of the truck took pictures cause he said his boss wouldn't believe him.
We were holding up traffic so I couldn't get pics. I could feel him trying to brake when I was pulling him through the sand. I guess he figured once he was out of the ruts he was ok, I yanked him locked brakes and all right out onto the pavement lol

So I believe your story.
 

goodwithwood35

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
327
51
28
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Found a NOS canvas cargo cover with staves, corners, and bows. Decided to install it. Got the bows, staves and corners on, then the end curtains. After spending 30 minutes wrestling the top over the bows, and scratching my noggin on how the heck it gets tied down, a couple more beers later I threw in the towel. Couldn't figure it out. Gave up on it and then realized I had the darn thing on sideways. Rookie mistake. I got one of the really vintage canvas ones (for a smokin good deal) with the nylon crimped rope. So I guess it must wait till next weekend oh well.
 
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