Practically inaccessible capscrew on master cylinder removal advice needed

[Lust4GreenSteel]

The TM states that using a 9/16 socket and 6" extension, through access hole, remove capscrew etc.

Well, we had a little problem with that procedure. Working blind, I couldn't seem to get the socket onto the head of the bolt. I tried everything I could think of - even used my most powerful USMC vocabulary and could not get it done.

Perhaps I was too tired. This was my first mechanical adventure and I had already had the ants up my shorts, found the open cab door upon crawling out from under the truck, and the other usual activities.

Three of my buddies were sitting in the shade with frosty beverages laughing at my "picture book instructions" etc. Finally one of them with a little mechanical ability ( but no MV experience) crawled under the truck with me. He got his hand up where he could feel the bolt head and could feel the socket slide over it. But when he turned the handle, the socket just turned freely. I suggested that maybe the bolt had been removed in a prior repair and not replaced, but he swore he could feel it.

So, what real world experience advice can you offer. I am wondering if the head is rounded. The previous owner told me that there was a MC leak, I assumed (Yes, I know about ass u me) that it would be a minor issue, but perhaps he knew something that I have just discovered.

If that head is rounded, what has to be done to get appropriate tools in there to remove it?

Any advice or comments.

 

[gimpyrobb]

In my experience, I use an ext that puts the ratchet behind the cross-member. I think that is a nut and bolt, so you will need to get a wrench or another socket on the opposite end.

 

[cjcottrill]

If you are talking about checking the fluid level in the master cylinder, you need to get your eyes on it from the top. It could be that it is equipped with a vent line that will need removed first. It is a challenge, and is almost as frustrating the second time as the first.

 

[Lust4GreenSteel]

Attempting to remove the MC not check it. And I agree that checking it and topping it off is a PITA too. We did have an extension so that the ratchet was beyond the frame. The problem was that the socket turned freely/did not engage the head of the screw.

Gimpy, I think it is a cap screw. At least, the TM says it is and the other three were cap screws not bolts. Two of them came out easily, and one was more difficult because there was limited room to turn the wrench and I didn't have a flex extension so couldn't get a socket onto it.

 

[73m819]

Use a metric socket the next size down from the 9/16, with the extenson on the socket, drive the socket on the head of the bolt, this "should" get the bolt out.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well its been a while since I've removed a master cyl but I thought one or two were bolts. Prob not!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Also, if you look from behind the cross-member forward, I thought you could see it(bolt head).

 

[155mm]

I love spline drive sockets for instances exactly like this one.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Perhaps consider a 6 point socket. The 14mm is the ever so slightly smaller metric. Might be able to get a better look with a small mirror. My experience has shown many of them never re-installed.

 

[gringeltaube]

Use a metric socket the next size down from the 9/16, with the extenson on the socket, drive the socket on the head of the bolt, this "should" get the bolt out.

Perhaps consider a 6 point socket. The 14mm is the ever so slightly smaller metric......

Yes, using a 14mm 6-point socket (not 12-point), that would be my first step, too.



G.

 

[rustystud]

All 4 are bolts that thread into the housing. The back one is rather difficult to remove. I use a box end swivel head wrench to get this one out.

 

[TGP (IL)]

Ratchet wrench for three of the bolts and a long 3/8 drive extension through the cross member from the back gets the fourth one.
Really wasn't all that bad.
If the head is rounded try a 6 point socket (which is what should be used anyway) .
Don't forget to remove the rear fitting on the MC after removing the line, before you remove all the bolts.
Tom