If you can do a quilt (moving blanket,
surplus wool blanket, or similar) with a
silver or mylar tarp over the hood and base of the windshield, you will be able to keep whatever heat is in the engine and engine compartment there, and insulate the hood from the heat wicking effect of a snow-load. The winter front is a rather cheap addition (<$100), and is totally worth it if you are expecting bitter cold. Cover the windshield too and you shouldn't have to scrape - a full car cover or larger tarp would get you there.
For starting a heating pad under the batteries (or at least some kind of insulator to keep the cold metal battery tray from wicking any heat away), will give you a bit more "oompf" out of the batteries. Remember that the glow plugs suck down about 100-200Watts each (1200 - 1600Watts total) before your starter even gets a chance to spin. That starter will draw between 3kW and 5kW, and cold or frozen batteries will do very little - colder batteries means lower voltage, lower voltage means less RPMs for the starter, less RPMs means less speed on the engine and lower likelihood of compressing ignition. If it's possible to take the batteries out and keep them warm and charged, it'll be worth it. For my money a battery blanket or heating pad is the first thing I'd want to put in.
A small circulation heater that is plugged into 120V power with the defroster vents open will keep both the engine and the cab warm - the drawback with these is that any heat added to the water will eventually open the thermostat and the radiator with remove that heat (see comment about the awesomeness of a winter front!!). A block heater, either freeze plug NPT insert or stick on will heat the block, but without circulating the water with gusto, you may have a cylinder that is left behind with respect to heat. That said, the stick-on silicone oil pan heaters are a terrific addition - all of the heat rises from the warm oil bath, so the bottoms of the pistons directly get some heat. If you can do both a pan heater and a circulating water heater you should be set.
12V and 24V stick on heaters are available, so if you have any clear sky and can do solar or a wind turbine where you park the truck, you can have it running non-stop (as long as the sun is shining or the wind is blowing). Even if it's not enough heat to get it to a toasty 180°F, a truck that starts at -10°F but not at -40°F only needs 30° of heat rise to be effective.
Bonus points if you do a stick on heating pad, circulating coolant heater, winter front insulating blankets over the hood, car cover, and a small passthrough fuel pump that circulates fuel through the IP and back to the tank to keep the fuel from gelling.
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