M1008 rear axle (seal replacement)

[cucvalbanese]

Just got the truck in jack stands. Found my rear passenger wheel has a leak. Have to open her up and see what is going on. Going to replace all seals and related items and probably do the brakes.

 

[cucvalbanese]

If anyone in the Sacramento area wants to help them come on by

 

[cucvrus]

I am off next Monday. Send me a round trip air fare and I will do the job for you.

 

[cucvalbanese]

Lol thanks haha. Between the heat and the kids I haven't got much done.

 

[Chaski]

Once you get it apart take a look at the spindles. If the sealing surface is pitted or scored consider the two piece seals that Offroad Design sells. They are cheaper and easier than a speedi sleeve.

 

[cucvalbanese]

Ok, so I pulled the passenger side tire, axle shaft, drum and found some issues. The pads have good meat but the drums need to be resurfaced. The seal was definitely blown and needs replacement. The splines on the axle shaft look good with no damage or bad wear. Decided to pull the plug on the mag high tec diff cover and found plenty of small pieces of metal. I also found no gasket for the axle shaft housing.... all silicon, here are some pics.

 

[Chaski]

The oil treasures are not so nice.

Did the hubs have any slop before you pulled them off?
Does your pinion have any slop?
Can you turn your pinion with your pinky finger with no effort?
What does your ring and pinion look like?
What does the surface of the spindle look like where the hub seal rides?

Replacing the hub bearings is pretty easy, requires no special tools.
If the pinion bearings are toast a clamshell puller and direct read inch pound torque wrench are needed.
If the carrier bearings are toast a clamshell puller is needed.

 

[cucvalbanese]

Chaski, apologize for the delay. Finally have a day pretty much to myself to work on the truck. I have not pulled the diff cover off yet. I am trying to get the brakes on first, minus the installation of the axles so that I can free up the work bench... darn kids keeping me busy. Once I get the brakes done I will pull the cover and check what you have brought up. Thank you for the advice.

 

[cucvalbanese]

Good Saturday everyone. I have found a concern while putting my new wheel cylinders on. I purchased these from Pep Boys. You can see the part number in the pictures. My question is, should the dust covers be squished into the ears like this? I don't have any adjustment room and I am worried the covers my prematurely crack from rubbing on the metal.

 

[welpro222]

It appears you have the right part number, I don't remember running into this when did my brake job awhile back. When I get home I take a look at my spare axle and compare.

 

[cucvalbanese]

Ok, I need some help. Does anyone have a part number for the 1 1/8 rear wheel cylinder from either pep boys or napa? I bought two from pep boys, same part numbers but both are different and the one which looks like it would replace mine has a bigger diameter. I looked at some other threads but none really mentioned the part numbers.

 

[welpro222]

Make sure when you tell them what year make and model (usually a 1984 chevy k30), then confirm that its for a 14 bolt 10.5 rear axle not the dana 70.

 

[cucvalbanese]

UPDATE: Returned the two wheel cylinders from pep boys since one box I opened was a completly different one. Went to O'reilly and found that they had the same box as dorman, the same part number as dorman but under a different name. Then I asked what type of DOT fluid it was rated for... DOT 3 they said. So I turned them down.

WC79768 O'reilly #
W79768 Pep Boys #
Both rated for DOT 3.

Think I want to find a NOS from a vehicle surplus.

 

[welpro222]

I think all brake items are DOT 3 approved these days. They are very simple hydraulics with seals. NOS is the best im sure, I just use the o'rielly's brand. I usually stick with brand name stuff for my truck, but simple things like wheel cylinders, brake calipers, and brake pads I go cheap. I always buy name brand seals, like stated before, go with the ORD seal for the hubs.

 

[cucvalbanese]

SO, as of today I was informed that some CUCVs were DOT 3 and others upgraded to the DOT 5? This was from one of the MV Surplus vendors I use.

My truck is DOT 5 and is labeled as such which is why I had concerns about the seals in the cylinders from the local part stores.

I have decided to go with Napa for the cylinders since I cannot find any NOS.

 

[Csm Davis]

SO, as of today I was informed that some CUCVs were DOT 3 and others upgraded to the DOT 5? This was from one of the MV Surplus vendors I use.

My truck is DOT 5 and is labeled as such which is why I had concerns about the seals in the cylinders from the local part stores.

I have decided to go with Napa for the cylinders since I cannot find any NOS.

Most all MV that use brake fluid used DOT 5 which is normally purple in color, the seals will be fine with DOT 5 as DOT 3 is actually a more abusive fluid than the silicone DOT 5. Just make sure you don't mix the two fluids.

 

[cucvalbanese]

Well the project is done. With the start of school for the kids the project took much longer than I had wanted it to but it is done right the first time.

What was done:
1) Rear hubs fully disassembled, refurbished, turned, all new linings, parts kits, seals, adjuster nut replaced.
2) Rear diff cover removed, mating surfaces cleaned, magnets cleaned and gears thoroughly cleaned with ONLY 80-90.
3) Internal inspections made and all is good.
Everything is back together and feels/looks awesome
4) Replaced rear brake lines, bent them to spec and re-strapped at vibration points. Due to the new lines not having the spring coil as the old ones did I took extra measures to reduce vibration and premature failure by using rubber wrapped fully around and then zip tied down to the retention points. The rubber was a re-purposed tire tube from my deuce cut into strips.

Here are some part numbers:

Inner bearings (the bigger ones): SKF 387-AS / NOTE: I could not find a perfect match to the originals which had 21 rollers and nothing made or assembled in america. The newer ones sold by Napa, Pep Boys, and Orielys and made in China are still part number 387-AS but only have 19 rollers and the rollers are larger in size the bearing itself is the same. If you're OCD like me I hope this saves you a headache from attention to detail.

Oil Seal: National Oil Seals # 2081

Brake hardware kit: Napa # 37290

Brake Adjusting nut: NAPA by Raybestos H1550-1 and H1550-2 (Left and Right Sides) (MADE IN AMERICA).

Rear Axle Flange: (Shaft to housing) FEL-PRO 55350 (MADE IN AMERICA-FINALLY LOL)

JUST FYI, if you are the kind of person who likes to use silicon anywhere that may touch gear oil here you go. DON'T USE ANY OTHER SILICON WITH GEAR OIL UNLESS THE PRODUCT YOU USE IS RATED FOR IT. I USED IT ONLY TO RE-GLUE THE INTERNAL MAGNET INSIDE OF THE DIFF. I allowed maximum dry time with cover off after an hour of light vice grip setting. Sorry for the rant, I just see to much use of standard RTV used with wrong oils

Purchased at Pep Boys: Permatex, RTV Gasket Maker adhesive for GEAR OIL, Permatex Part # 81182

Happy CUCV owner once again.

 

[jsutherland]

Getting ready to replace a leaking rear axle seal myself on an 86' CUCV. Never done one before. Any tips, tricks or watchouts? Also, I know I turn to youtube for a lot of help on the unknown. Found one decent video on a full float axle seal replacement. Any other DIY videos out there?

 

[cucvrus]

Getting ready to replace a leaking rear axle seal myself on an 86' CUCV. Never done one before. Any tips, tricks or watchouts? Also, I know I turn to youtube for a lot of help on the unknown. Found one decent video on a full float axle seal replacement. Any other DIY videos out there?

While you are in there examine the brakes and E brake cables. taking the drums off an m1008 is not something I like doing. It basically is a big heavy drum and I replace the inner seals every time I remove a drum from one of these CUCV's. Also spend the few dollars more for the metal axle flange gaskets. Worth the expense and time to do it right the first time. No half fast work or keep going back and spending more time and money. Be Safe. Good Luck.

 

[Csm Davis]

While you are in there examine the brakes and E brake cables. taking the drums off an m1008 is not something I like doing. It basically is a big heavy drum and I replace the inner seals every time I remove a drum from one of these CUCV's. Also spend the few dollars more for the metal axle flange gaskets. Worth the expense and time to do it right the first time. No half fast work or keep going back and spending more time and money. Be Safe. Good Luck.

Do you have a part number for the metal axle flange gasket?

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