Nebulous, M1009

[cucvrus]

Are we talking an M1009 Blazer?

 

[kkcshipp]

Yes sir, that is the vehicle. I just read through your thread on "Mr Crusty" and you need to move closer to Kentucky. You have skills.

 

[kkcshipp]

Good news for me (and some of you who I frustrate with my goofey questions), I have found a 91Z/Master Sergeant who is a CUCV knowledgeable Soldier and can show my monkey butt how to...If you get my point. It's good to work on Ft Knox. I'm probably going to have to take a day off from work and get some of these things done. Going to NAPA to buy parts for DOGHEAD Mod (that doesn't look too hard); purchase AC Delco glow plugs I read about here (hope for no mushrooming); and this evening check for backlash and brake components on that one side. I have a muffler specialist in town since I too have done one on my back under my lifted Jeep and don't want to fool with that. I'll keep you posted and as always welcome all feedback.

 

[tim292stro]

Do you have a 12V test light?

 

[kkcshipp]

Not that I know of; could rip a lamp apart? I have a multi-meter from Harbor Freight though.

 

[tim292stro]

Yes, any low wattage (<10W) lamp or even a light bulb with wire soldered to it will work. A test light illuminating demonstrates that there is enough voltage and current available between the two connection points to light up a bulb.

HF multi-meter will work too.

Let's back up a bit and talk about the glow system. When you turn the key to "on" before starting the truck, does the wait light come on?

If not, then there is probably something missing in the automatic control for the glow plugs. If it does come on, I'm sure you know to wait to try starting until after that dash lamp goes out... If it does not turn on at all when you put the key to on, then is there a toggle switch or something non-factory on the dashboard? (can you take a picture of your dash in that case?)

 

[kkcshipp]

Wait light does come on (as well as the Water in Fuel light) and after a couple seconds goes off. Each time trying to start the wait light comes on, started when the temp was 50 degrees. I'm thinking it is simply the glow plugs and I have to replace them anyhow (because who knows how old they are).

 

[cucvrus]

How old they are does not matter. It is if they work or not that matters. You can pull them all out and check them or check them when they are in. You also can check the glow plug relay at the master cylinder on the firewall. That may be the defective part. You should have voltage at the outward stud side of relay/solenoid when the wait light is on. Time to get a testlight or make one.

 

[kkcshipp]

I'll check it tonight and post results.

 

[tim292stro]

To do the test, take one wire from the test light and... WAIT...

[TANGENT:] And that reminds me to make one caution... use your HF multimeter first in the 30V or higher setting - if your resistor pack is in place for 24V power supply to the glow relay, hooking up a 12V bulb to the unswitched side (or the switched side with no functioning glow plugs) will result is a fast "flash and pop" of the bulb. I did a lengthy post on how/why the cascade failure kills glow plugs in CUCVs here - if you're not timid, try and read through it. If the math doesn't make a whole lot of sense, just look at the calculated values at the end of the post of what happens with dead glow plugs by count. Also the AC60G is often recommended here on SS as a better replacement for the Wellmans, but in my personal opinion if your resistor pack is working as designed, the self-regulating type plugs are not correct for long term reliability (the supply voltage is not "guaranteed" with self regulating plugs). [/TANGENT]

Measure across chassis ground and both FAT terminals of the glow plug relay on the firewall.

With the ignition OFF:

• One terminal should roughly equal the voltage from ground to the upper 24V battery + (with no load, the glow plug ballast resistor pack doesn't drop or "consume" any voltage - it's not doing any work).
• One terminal should roughly be zero-volts, or "open".

With the ignition ON (and the wait light on for the first few seconds):

• You should hear a firm "click" from the glow plug relay as it turns on
• The terminal that measured at or above 24V (what the resting battery voltage was), should drop to approximately 12V (no more than 14V!!)
• The terminal that measured at zero-volts or open should be the same as the other fat terminal (it should not have a measurable voltage difference between the two fat terminals when ON)
  • If the voltages of either terminal when the glow plug relay is above 14V without the alternators spinning (remember we haven't yet started the truck), you may have one or more dead glow plugs, or your resistor pack my be bad.

If your measured voltage is anywhere above 15V DO NOT use the test light (again: flash, pop). If the glow relay on the firewall has one terminal that never gets above 1V (stays zero, open, etc..), then we can look at either your relay or the glow plug controller card as the problem we next have to trouble shoot.

If your glow plug relay clicks and the voltage across the two fat terminals are the same, then we can assume both the controller and the relay are functioning correctly - it's either plugs or the ballast resistor pack.

With the key OFF:

• Measure from the 24V battery + to the glow plug relay with the multimeter set in the resistance or OHMS mode. We are looking for a value of 0.081Ohms or more (0.09Ohms - 10% error approximate). If the resistor pack is 0.09Ohms or more then it's probably fine or at least shouldn't kill plugs like a serial killer. Make sure the resistor pack is clean of debris - it is as hot as a household room heater when your truck is glowing the plugs.

If your resistor pack is measuring in the good range, and you still see a voltage higher that half the 24V+ battery referenced to ground, you likely have dead plugs.

With the key OFF:

• Pull the spade lugs from all of the plugs.
• With one test lead grounded, and the multimeter on resistance or OHMS mode, measure each of the glow plug connectors sticking out of the engine block, none should read a resistance higher than 1Ohm. The ones that read higher or "open" or infinity-resistance are either failing or bad. These need to be replaced.

There is also the risk of failed glow plug wires, so make sure the bare glow plug wires can't touch anything metal:
With the key ON and the wait light on, and the multimeter in the 30V+ range:

• Measure each spade lug in the glow plug harness - they should be roughly the same voltage as the fat terminal on the glow plug relay.
• If one or more is measuring zero-voltage or open, then you've found a bad wire. Replace it.

In general you should check your glow plugs as often as you change your oil or at least every 6 months. With the 24V starting system with the ballast resistor the whole set of glow plugs is sensitive to failed glow plugs. This isn't a bad design, it's just a design that needs to be paid attention to as part of PM and not just left until you're kicking your truck on the side of the road one winter morning

 

[kkcshipp]

Sorry it's been so long but I've been busy with other things. Finally found a local muffler shop who took on getting me mufflers and pipes. Ken Towery refused to do it; they'll not get any of my business in the future. Turned out to be a blessing as the guy is a veteran owned business and is well versed in CUCV workings. He also took care of my rear brakes which were binding and causing my neck to whiplash. First photo is twin mufflers and second is inner drum shot. He said the drums looked like bells in shape. Runs almost as good as my son's Ranger.

 

[kkcshipp]

You can also notice the original color is sand, as that is not dirt under the vehicle. Next up: ordered HMMWV seat belts from Fleabay, L brackets from seatbelts.com (research here is awesome) and will replace when they arrive. Glow plug replacement happens this weekend and we may go to local pull a part looking for seats.

 

[Bryan 45]

Good to see another local with some OD!

I'm also in Elizabethtown. You may see me around town some when the weather is nice.

 

[kkcshipp]

Bryan 45, PM Sent.

 

[rsh4364]

Have you figured out why one front tire is tighter to body than the other? How about some underhood picts.

 

[rsh4364]

Any updates on the project? You cant prove your wife was right,thinking you were crazy for buying it!

 

[2deuce]

I bypassed that resister for the glow plugs, so that they have 12V. I don't understand why that resister is needed. With it, if you lose 1 gp others will burn out quickly. With the resister bypassed the loss of one doesn't effect the rest.

 

[tim292stro]

It's needed for 24V, not 12V. Lengthy explanation here. If it's still installed on a 12V system, your plugs will never burn out - of course they will be running at around 6V instead of 12V, so they'll never get to temperature either...

 

[2deuce]

I bypassed the resistor totally and ran a 12v line to the same post that the resistor went to. That way the voltage never goes over 12 volts. The plugs still burn out occasionally but I avoid the domino effect on the rest of them when I lose one. I'll read the lenghty explanation when I have time looking for side effects, but I haven't noticed any yet and it has been years. The only thing I can think of is the glow plugs only use 1 battery so it gets more draw.

 

[rsh4364]

You are correct on batt. draw,thats why a lot of guys who have done bypass have 12v alt belt noise at initial start-up.Since doing my second bypass on my second 1009,I keep a close eye on my front batt.