low coolant light

[Hogg]

I've got a low coolant light issue on my M1009... Plenty of fluid in radiator and in resevoir... The light comes on after its warmed up a little, then goes off and comes back on randomly... Im assuming its a sensor problem, but i'm not the saviest of mechanics... Any suggestions or anyone with the same problem??

 

[kassim503]

Sounds like a shorted wire somewhere, you could try unplugging the sensor from the radiator, its the one wire going into the pass. side tank

 

[rnd-motorsports]

Unplug the sensor as stated its on the pass side tank of the radiator if you ground the wire that is pluged into it, the light should come on and unground it should go out.with the key on, if it does change the sensor. common complaint would almost bet its the sensor!

 

[Hogg]

Hey, thanks guys. I'll give that a try tomorrow and see what happens. I appreciate it

 

[Barrman]

Clean the end of the plug too. Mine was intermittent, then constant. I did the checks in the -20 and put in a new sensor. All good for about a month and then it started coming on every now and then. I cleaned the plug, crimped it a hair with pliers and now all is good again.

 

[Hogg]

Low coolant light issue

I recently posted a question about the low coolant light in my M1009... It comes on and goes off randomly, plenty of good clean antifreeze in the radiator and in the reservoir and no signs of it getting hot... A few guys told me to replace the sensor, and I did. Took it out for a cruise this afetrnoon, and thought I had fixed the problem as it didnt come on for about ten miles, then it came back on and started the same ole thing all over. Got home, checked the wire that connects to the sensor and couldnt find any bad spots where it might be grounding out... I am perplexed to say the least... Any suggestions??

 

[doghead]

Yes, continue your old thread.


Edit, I merged them.

 

[Oldsouthernboy]

Check the ground by the battery on the bulkhead, also check the connector end for corresion and fit, Use a dab of dieelectric grease on the stub, and insure a good connection.

 

[Hogg]

Will do... Thanks. I'll keep yall "posted"

 

[cjkeeliii]

I had the same problem, and the fix was to clean the connection under the dash. If memory serves, there are a couple of black boxes under the dash, one of which is close to the steering column. On my truck it is not connected and occasionally falls down around the brake pedal. Anyhow, one of those connectors in that box is for the low coolant sensor. I unpluggged the connector, applied dielectric grease, and dumped all of the dirt out of the box. Hope this helps you.

 

[cucvrus]

An old thread but I have the same issue on Terminus M1009. The low coolant lamp in on all the time. The previous owner put black tape on the cluster over the light to hide it. I want it to work properly. Any other ideas? Also the temp lamp over heat does not come on when I start it and the horn blows constantly when the fuse is in place. Even with the horn relay removed. I am lost on that one. Any ideas? I mean I can spend countless hours and figure it out I am sure. I am asking for some helpful hints to resolve these issues.

 

[Warthog]

Cucvrus it sounds like the diode on the horn relay socket is bad.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?90190-CUCV-Horn-relay

On the low coolant light you can test the sensor on the radiator, unplug the wire and see if the light goes out.

I would say a possible bad bulb or circuit board for the over heat lamp.

 

[cucvrus]

The horn still blows with the horn relay removed. That is why I am confused. The horn relay is the little 3 prong relay. Unless I lost my mind. OK I seen the other thread. I will cut the relay diode on top of the plug. I have the steering wheel apart to clean the contacts and repair the spring and small black lock on spring and contact was missing. Also the column lock is very dirty and neds lubed. That will make the key turn easier.
The low coolant light does not go out with the wire unplugged or when I ground out the wire. if I am correct the grounding out should be what makes it go out?
The high temp light I am not real worried about. I will work on that again later. The circuit board was a bit thin on the copper at these 2 areas. that could be the problem with the low coolant lamp also. ???

 

[Warthog]

There is a circuit board for the low coolant light. It is near the horn relay and fuse box. It is about 1/3 the size of the glow plug card. I have seen them get very corroded. Remove it and check the contacts.

At one point AntennaClimber had talked about building new ones but I do not know if that ever happened.

 

[cpf240]

The horn still blows with the horn relay removed. That is why I am confused. The horn relay is the little 3 prong relay. Unless I lost my mind. OK I seen the other thread. I will cut the relay diode on top of the plug...

If the diode failed with a 'short' condition instead of an 'open' one, it is bypassing the horn relay altogether.