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CUCV Rocker panel no welding install

82ABNMP

Active member
556
53
28
Location
Winston Salem NC
I imagine that I would be good for kick panels as well right? My drivers side is pretty bad and the passenger is starting. I am having a hard time finding the panel though. I know you cut the panel to match your cut, not cutting to match the panel. With that being said, do I just use some flat stock? I need to see how it all lines up because the inner rockers are all rusted out as well as the floor pan sides.

Lastly- This is my daily driver. How long does it need to set up before I can prime and paint it? I am just wondering if I can knock this out in a weekend or 3 days. I don't want to be using the LPC's for a week LOL!

Yes, all you need to do is cut some flat stock and match it up to your hole. Then glue it on, use self tapping screws to hold overnight to cure remove screws and it's never coming off after that.

David
 

Stonepicker1

Well-known member
2,446
86
48
Location
Coconut Creek, Florida
:idea:Now another thing to add on my "list to do" when I have time.
Thanks 82ABNMP.:)

I bought the big gun and large tubes.
 

Attachments

86M10086.2L

Member
387
2
18
Location
Long Island, New York
Great info, gonna do this to my truck as well. Anyone know of a place I can get the raised/domed floor scetion under the seat (M1008) other than cutting a section from a truck in a junkyard? Need to do some floor, rocker, kick panel, cab corner repairs.
 

major519

Member
52
8
8
Location
Nipissing, Ontario, CA
A guy that occasionally does some paint work for me is a body guy. I first saw him do this process on a Dodge Dakota pickup on the rear quarters.
He actually used an air seaming tool that provided a 3/8 or 1/2 recessed lip along the edge. He fit the panels inside this lip so that the sheet metal fit flush instead of gluing on top and over lapping. When you overlap you need to use a fair amount of filler to feather it out. Since his seams were flush after gluing, a minimal amount of filler was required to make the seam invisible....
 

Dirty1

New member
47
0
0
Location
MA
I know I am raising a thread from the dead. How has this held up for those that have done it? Anyone do the cab corners?
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
I know I am raising a thread from the dead. How has this held up for those that have done it? Anyone do the cab corners?
I can say on how it held up.
But I don't see why it will not work on cab corners, they don't hold any weight.
However I am not a expert on this so take at your own risk. Mileage, performance, and results not guaranteed, I do not offer a warranty with this post. Hehe.

Maybe someone who has used this will pipe up on how long it lasted
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
CUCVLOVER led me to this post and thanks very much for that. 82ABNMP what about the "seam sealer" since I'm a noob of epic proportions. I'm a retired CBRNE guy so we both probably went through Ft. McClellan during the good ole days. BTW, I think this post should be a sticky for us non-welding, got to get some body work done, types. Thanks for that post thought.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
556
53
28
Location
Winston Salem NC
Hi kkcshipp, ah good ole Ft. McClellan!! Yeah, well all I have to say about that is thank God I only spent a few months there and hope I didn't come away with anything from the chem school.

As, far as the seam sealer, to my understanding is the panel bond adhesive acts as a sealer as well as glue. 2 for one! But extra seam sealer won't hurt.
 
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