• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M35a2 oils

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
Rustystud, I have been reading up on the Zplus site trying to figure out how much to use. Looks like 4.5 bottles (18oz) would be the proper amount. How much do you use per oil change?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Rustystud, I have been reading up on the Zplus site trying to figure out how much to use. Looks like 4.5 bottles (18oz) would be the proper amount. How much do you use per oil change?
I use 2 bottles each oil change. That gives me roughly 1600 ppm of Zinc when using synthetic Rotella T . The amount you will need depends on what oil your using. It should have a breakdown on there website how much Zinc they have in there oil. Or you can request a MSDS sheet from them.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I can not find any evidence of any oil leaking, but after reading this... I'm wondering if it's possible that the synthetic oil acted to dissolve the
"crud or sludge" deposits that may have built up over the years. Might that crud and sludge have turned the semi-clear, brownish 'new' oil color to a very dark black color?

The black color is as dark as the BLACK INK used to refill computer printer cartridges!

Also, might that crud and sludge smell something like charcoal, or soot? :-?
Like welldigger said all diesel oil gets black really fast. So I wouldn't worry too much about that unless the oil feels gritty between your fingers. At this time I would just go ahead and change out the fluid and filters. Then you can start from a new point knowing what is in your engine. After the oil change feel the oil so you will get a feeling for how it should be. Then you can judge later if something feels off. Don't worry about the oil level. According to the TM's you should check it about 5 to 10 minutes after shutdown. Any later and you will be getting all the oil from the galleys and filters in the pan.
 

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
... At this time I would just go ahead and change out the fluid and filters. Then you can start from a new point knowing what is in your engine. After the oil change feel the oil so you will get a feeling for how it should be. Then you can judge later if something feels off. ...
YUP... I think that's probably the best thing to do at this point. :grin:

As a new owner, I really have no way of knowing what has, or has not been done (by previous owners) with respect to the quality, chemical makeup and condition of the lubricants that currently flow through this machine (unless I was to send a sample away for analysis).

I've got to establish my own 'working-history' for this deuce anyway. So... today (if the weather is favorable), I'll do the complete drain-n-change of crankcase oil and filters. Then... the records I keep (from this point on) can be more accurately applied, in a diagnostic sense, to troubleshoot things should problems arise in the future.

Thanks to all for the comments and help. :goodjob:
 

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
... Unless you have the spin on oil filters ...
This truck does not have the 'spin on filter' setup. It's pretty much a 'stock' machine.
It also came with a case of extra oil filters, so I'll probably not consider a conversion until I've used them all.

BTW... Hope you and your truck are doing well after your recent travel adventure.
 

daytonatrbo

Member
320
3
18
Location
Tricities, TN
The previous owner of my truck was very proud of the fact that he did zero maintenance in 8 years of ownership. I don't think he even changed the oil. *facepalm*
 

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
The previous owner of my truck was very proud of the fact that he did zero maintenance in 8 years of ownership. I don't think he even changed the oil. *facepalm*
Wow... that's pretty sad! But... probably not uncommon.

I've got a neighbor who contends it's 'proof of a quality machine', the longer his vehicle can keep running... without... his having to do ANY... routine, or preventitive maintenance on it! :shock:

He recently told me: "Wish I had all the money you've spent, working on your vehicles. I'd be a rich retiree!" :shrugs:

The guy drives me crazy at times, but the good thing is... he never borrows my tools! ;)
 
152
0
16
Location
Birdsboro Pa.
I finished my transmission rebuild about 4 weeks ago and everything seemed to be working great. I used the 30 weight non detergent oil because the documentation available suggested that was the correct oil for the job. I've put about 40 miles on it so far and now I am starting to have problems with the synchros not working very good. The shifter is starting to twitch as I put it into the next gear. Before the rebuild everything shifted well. It was hard to get into 2nd, and 1st and reverse would always grind but the synchros worked well. At the time it had gear oil in it. I don't know what type. I recognize the smell of the oil as gear oil.
Tomorrow I am draining the oil and replacing it with gear oil. I hope this fixes my problem. I don't want to take the trans out again.
If I had only listened to Rustystud. He has tried to convince us that 30 weight oil was not good for the trans and I now believe him.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
If I had only listened to Rustystud. He has tried to convince us that 30 weight oil was not good for the trans and I now believe him.
Ah, yes, grasshopper:

- rustystud is a trusted sage; I mean just look at that avatar of his!

Every word from his mouth is the word of ancient wizened old wisdom.
 

tommys2patrick

Well-known member
700
272
63
Location
Livermore, Colorado
I finished my transmission rebuild about 4 weeks ago and everything seemed to be working great. I used the 30 weight non detergent oil because the documentation available suggested that was the correct oil for the job. I've put about 40 miles on it so far and now I am starting to have problems with the synchros not working very good. The shifter is starting to twitch as I put it into the next gear. Before the rebuild everything shifted well. It was hard to get into 2nd, and 1st and reverse would always grind but the synchros worked well. At the time it had gear oil in it. I don't know what type. I recognize the smell of the oil as gear oil.
Tomorrow I am draining the oil and replacing it with gear oil. I hope this fixes my problem. I don't want to take the trans out again.
If I had only listened to Rustystud. He has tried to convince us that 30 weight oil was not good for the trans and I now believe him.
I will be doing some tranny/transfer work and in the process changing the oils. I have been following the "oil" discussion and can relate to your hard won knowledge on oil weights. Hope the syncros and gears have survived the somewhat brief immersion in 30 weight. I presume you are going to check for "shavings" even though this was a short time. Not sure what the best procedure would be to flush the tranny of the 30 weight or if it is even needed. Perhaps Rustystud has a comment.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
I feel like there is more going on with your transmission than what oil you used. 30 wt motor oil is almost exactly the same as gl-1 gear oil that these transmissions used for 50 or more years.
 
152
0
16
Location
Birdsboro Pa.
I pulled the plugs and found a small amount of steel on the magnets. Not enough to be worried about.
I filled it up with 80 weight oil and took it for a 5 mile drive.
The first couple of shifts weren't very good. The shifter fluttered a few times and then in went into gear. As I drove further the flutter faded away.
By the time I got home it felt good enough to put a smile back on my face.
I'll take it out for another drive later and give you all an update.
 
152
0
16
Location
Birdsboro Pa.
I have one other thing I want to mention. In the mornings when the temperature is in the low 40's it shifted good. As it warmed up it started to act up. In the afternoon when the temperature is in the low 80's it shifted bad all the time.
 
718
9
18
Location
Springfield Or
I finished my transmission rebuild about 4 weeks ago and everything seemed to be working great. I used the 30 weight non detergent oil because the documentation available suggested that was the correct oil for the job. I've put about 40 miles on it so far and now I am starting to have problems with the synchros not working very good. The shifter is starting to twitch as I put it into the next gear. Before the rebuild everything shifted well. It was hard to get into 2nd, and 1st and reverse would always grind but the synchros worked well. At the time it had gear oil in it. I don't know what type. I recognize the smell of the oil as gear oil.
Tomorrow I am draining the oil and replacing it with gear oil. I hope this fixes my problem. I don't want to take the trans out again.
If I had only listened to Rustystud. He has tried to convince us that 30 weight oil was not good for the trans and I now believe him.
I have been using 40 w motor oil for over 3 years in a daily driver. I hope going back to gear oil helps you problem but these transmissions were designed to run on engine oil.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
152
0
16
Location
Birdsboro Pa.
I just got back from a 35 mile joy ride and the transmission is shifting perfectly. Now I can say with 100% certainty that the 30 weight oil was the cause of my problem.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks