New Owner: 1967 M109 - Oh BOY!

[lelandEOD]

So, I just landed a '67 M109 that has been sitting for about 7 years from a very close friend. I've got a laundry list of things to do to get it home: Fluids, belts, hoses, brakes, filters, batteries...

The goal of this project is a expo/survival/light-hearted zombie apocalypse-rig just to make my in-laws cringe. I own a firearms manufacturing business and will likely title/register it to the company and make it a bit of a fun marketing mobile.

I just wanted to introduce myself to you gents and get the ball rolling on the learning curve. I need to address the tires very soon as they are badly dry rotted and am learning about the options for converting it to super singles. It also came with a M66 ring mount I'm going to try to adapt for use with the hard top. I'm going to have a lot of questions but I'm certain this site is full of good people willing to help.

 

[m16ty]

I had to edit the Photobucket links out of your post. Per the site rules, links to image hosting sites aren't allowed. You need to post the pics directly to the site.

The reason for the rule is that people don't always keep up their image hosting site, links go dead, and then the pics are gone from the thread.

 

[lelandEOD]

Roger, understood!

 

[theeDIZ]

Nice acquisition , gonna be a lotta work but well worth it in the end!

 

[Tracer]

Looks like a nice truck with a lot of potential..........should be fun!!!

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Welcome aboard

Find a bunk, stow your gear, and prepare to get underway

Nice score with that M109 - Congrats I'm sure that many, including myself, will be drooling over your new prize.

Carry on.

 

[lelandEOD]

I made some progress on the Deuce this weekend. The truck is parked an hour away from where I live so I have to do a bit of planning on the trips I make. On the last trip, I yanked the fuel tank and had it boiled and epoxy lined. I replaced the in-tank pump with a newer style one from an A3. I put in 10 gallons of fresh diesel, swapped the fuel filters, installed a pair of new Interstate Group 31 batteries and tried to start it. She cranked over just fine, but a quick inspection under the truck revealed at least a liter of diesel sprayed everywhere. At some point, someone replaced the copper fuel supply line under the radiator with one fabed up at a hydraulic fitting shop and it has dry-rotted, allowing fuel to squirt everywhere along its length. Since I'm not trying to irrigate with diesel, I was done for the day.

I then turned my attention to the brake system. I got the old air-pak removed and drained it of brake fluid. A crap-load of fluid came out of that thing and I'm assuming that it had failed and let fluid into the air chamber. After a good 45 minutes of cursing, the master cylinder relented as well. Next trip I'll install a new fuel supply line, a rebuilt air-pak and master cylinder.


I also want to rebuild the wheel cylinders and was wondering if most people would recommend replacing each wheel cylinder with commercially available units or just buying a rebuild kit for the existing wheel cylinders?

More to come!

 

[loosescrews]

I always rebuild everything I can, but I do it because I like tooling, not because its convenient.

 

[AZK9]

Looks like a great truck!

Enjoy your project!

 

[rustystud]

If the wheel cylinders are rebuildable then do it. Get your parts from NAPA as the stuff from most sites is crap made in China and they don't last long at all. The wheel cylinder seals can be bought separately. There is usually no need to replace the springs unless they are rusted and the dust boots can be reused unless there torn.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Looks like a solid rig to start with. You will likely need to just replace the wheel cylinders, as water settles in them and pits the inside surfaces to a point where they can't be rebuilt. They can be had as low as $25 each if you shop around. Spend the money on brakes before you spend it on anything else.
Don't bother with rubber brake hoses either, there really are no quality replacements available anymore. Either message member Peashooter about a set of stainless braided flex hoses, or take your old ones off and have some braided ones made.

 

[lelandEOD]

Ok, assuming I want to install new wheel cylinders, where can I go and get the genuine article and not inadvertently buy cheap Asian junk?

 

[Jeepsinker]

You will get some cheap Asian junk no matter who or where you buy from. That includes NAPA. Of all the ones I've gotten from napa, I've only gotten a couple that were American made.

The Asian ones aren't that bad. They last a couple years. Just don't get gear oil or grease on their dust boots, they swell like crazy if you do.

 

[Tracer]

Ok, assuming I want to install new wheel cylinders, where can I go and get the genuine article and not inadvertently buy cheap Asian junk?

Give Ken at Kublo's Military Surplus a call on wheel cylinders. Last I saw he still had good US brake shoes in stock, not the new star stuff. (

 

[Jeepsinker]

He needs wheel cylinders, not shoes... lol

 

[rustystud]

You will get some cheap Asian junk no matter who or where you buy from. That includes NAPA. Of all the ones I've gotten from napa, I've only gotten a couple that were American made.

The Asian ones aren't that bad. They last a couple years. Just don't get gear oil or grease on their dust boots, they swell like crazy if you do.

If you just buy the wheel cylinder "seals" then you will be OK. Those are still made in America. I have bought about 48 of them just in the last 3 months. All made in America. They come in a box of 8 ea.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Ok, good advice Rusty. I'm usually buying whole cylinders.

 

[rustystud]

Ok, good advice Rusty. I'm usually buying whole cylinders.

If you buy the whole wheel cylinder you will get Asian made stuff. There are "No" American made wheel cylinders left for our trucks, unless you can find some NOS ones.

 

[M543A2]

Your decision on what to do with the wheel cylinders will be established when you get them off and check the bores. If they are not pitted in critical cup contact areas and can be honed out nicely than you are good to rebuild. A bit of rust pitting in the very center of the cylinder where the cup seal lips will never contact is not a problem. If they cannot be honed smooth in the cup contact area then you will have to replace. I find that because these trucks had silicone fluid in them they are not so prone to having rusted cylinders. Silicone does not attract moisture over time to create rust like civilian fluid does. I agree with Rusty on the rebuild vs. buying whole cylinders issue.
I bought some seamless copper tubing with the idea of precision boring out a vintage Mopar master cylinder and pressing in the tubing as a liner. I have not yet had the time to do it. Maybe some vintage brake parts for our trucks could be saved the same way.

 

[rustystud]

I bought some seamless copper tubing with the idea of precision boring out a vintage Mopar master cylinder and pressing in the tubing as a liner. I have not yet had the time to do it. Maybe some vintage brake parts for our trucks could be saved the same way.[/QUOTE]

There are a number of brake parts rebuilders that use stainless steel to reline master cylinders and power boosters that are no longer available. I actually talked with a guy who rebuilds the deuce air-pacs this way. It costs a lot though. He wanted $500.00 for a rebuilt unit. Of course you would never need to worry about the bore going bad !