CUCV M1009 Blazer will not start

[Aaron101]

I just got it about 2 weeks ago. It sat for 10 days after I drove it home, and now will not start. It just clicks!

I changed the solenoid and took the starter into the auto parts store to test. Starter is good!

I charged up both batteries to 100% and no change in the issue.

This is my first diesel.

The wait light still goes on and off.

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[cucvrus]

Is it 24 volts or 12 volt?

 

[Aaron101]

24 volt

 

[cucvrus]

Auto parts store can test a 24 volt starter?

 

[cucvrus]

What solenoid did you change?

 

[Aaron101]

it came with a 24V replacement still in plastic. easy swap. it said it was produced in 1997.
I watched as they hooked it up to their machine. the gear popped out and spun. and the machine said GOOD.

 

[cpf240]

Have the batteries load tested by the auto parts place. Just because they show a full charge doesn't mean they can handle the load.

 

[tim292stro]

...Just because they show a full charge doesn't mean they can handle the load...

This is one of the more comon failures of batteries - an internal bus-bar fractures due to vibration or temperature shock. It will have enough material left in contact to run a dome light or relay, but will not carry a high current load like glow plugs and a starter...

 

[Aaron101]

I also had my jeep hooked up with cables to one of the batteries to make sure it had extra power. And on a separate occasion I had my battery charger on start mode to the other battery when I started it (jeep was not hooked up). That battery showed 100% on the charger after the attempt. Just to cover all bases I will probably eventually take the batteries in to be tested, but I really don't think that is the issue.

I don't think my starter is getting the go ahead from the S bolt on the solenoid. The starter works just fine when out of the cucv, seems the click is not coming from my starter.

I saw a guy post a video somewhere of his cucv doing the same thing, but there was no follow up to that video (I think it was a youtube video). I seems like this would be a common enough issue, but perhaps I am wrong.

 

[Aaron101]

One more thing. I hooked up a remote jump button to the starter solenoid while hooked up to the batteries, and when the key was on. The starter was out of the bell housing and resting on the front drive shaft at the time, but it did work.

This was a tense situation for me. I turned the key ran around to hit the button to bump the starter and ran back to kill the key. I was/am nervous about screwing up the GP's or anything else in the system. Then I took the starter in to me tested. after looking at the TM and seeing amp draw details for the starter I was hoping that the parts store would be able to give more details, but no such luck.

 

[cucvrus]

You are hooking up the small wire to the post nearest the engine?

 

[Aaron101]

No never touched that with a tool. I took off the cover to make sure no connections looked corroded, and shock the wires with my had to make sure everything was tight. since I just drove this thing I am hoping to mess with as little as possible.

 

[tim292stro]

If the click was not coming from the starter, and the starter works in a bench test - then I'm leaning towards your control system and wiring. If you have not done the Doghead mod, which is to put a high current relay on the wire coming from the steering column that then feeds the starter solenoid - the switch in the steering column is not rated for the current demand and can be destroyed or damaged. Some people get around this by putting a Semi-truck starter pushbutton in the dash (my M1009 came with one of those), but fixing the circuit design problem is really the right way to go - you can have the switch fail with the contacts welded shut, which would leave your starter motor running after you take out the key... (bad).

With the starter disconnected from the circuits, use a multi-meter to check the wiring. With a "Soldier B" turning the key to the start position you should see voltage on the s-post wire, and with the key in run or off there should be no voltage.

 

[Aaron101]

I am so happy I got my beast purring. First I started taking apart the dash, I suspected it was either the GP relay or the starter relay. since the warming light was coming on and no one chiming in that it was the GP relay I started to look for the starter relay. After reading some posts on the ignition wiring (thank you all) I was going to test the starter relay, and there it was with a purple wire, and red wire. However it was not fully plugged in, it was sitting on an angle. I couldn't believe it. it was hard to push back in. I guess it was loose and come off on the maiden journey home. crazy.

As a side note the M1009 came with AC60 GP's and after reading posts I was happy to see that. Then I quickly realized why they had to be trimmed down or the connections replaced. After reading the TM's I was testing the GP's ohm's and four were bad as in no continuity. After replacing them and plugging that relay it fired right up, so quickly. Granted it was a 70 degree day here in NC where I am right now. SOOOO happy. Now to get the **** rear lights to work and an after market horn button.

 

[Plane Fast]

Good job getting it going!

 

[royalflush55]

I am so happy I got my beast purring. First I started taking apart the dash, I suspected it was either the GP relay or the starter relay. since the warming light was coming on and no one chiming in that it was the GP relay I started to look for the starter relay. After reading some posts on the ignition wiring (thank you all) I was going to test the starter relay, and there it was with a purple wire, and red wire. However it was not fully plugged in, it was sitting on an angle. I couldn't believe it. it was hard to push back in. I guess it was loose and come off on the maiden journey home. crazy.

As a side note the M1009 came with AC60 GP's and after reading posts I was happy to see that. Then I quickly realized why they had to be trimmed down or the connections replaced. After reading the TM's I was testing the GP's ohm's and four were bad as in no continuity. After replacing them and plugging that relay it fired right up, so quickly. Granted it was a 70 degree day here in NC where I am right now. SOOOO happy. Now to get the **** rear lights to work and an after market horn button.

Dielectric grease can be one of your best friends on any electric connection. Makes plugging and unplugging a lot easier as well as making a better connection that will not corrode!