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WSUCougarx's M561 Gama Goat Acquisition and Build Thread

wsucougarx

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MERDC- Winter Verdant Paint (Behr Paint)

***Correction, DO NOT use FS24097 as an alternative to FS34079. It's too brown***

Today after a church meeting, I made my way to Home Depot to get things squared away with my MERDC paint. I had made two previous attempts to Home Depot to have paint made up using the Federal Standard colors, but ran into issues with FS34079 (Forest Green). For some reason, Home Depot couldn't find a match of any thing on my previous attempts. At the time, I figured Home Depot had changed their paint computer software and the FS codes no longer worked. Then while perusing Steelsoldiers, I came across a post stating there was indeed an issue with the FS 34079 code as the gov't changed something with the numerical designation or it was no longer listed. I don't remember what the issue was but confirmed there was an issue with Home Depots computer anyways. Rather, the FS 24079 worked. So armed with this information I went to Home Depot.
I approached the counter and the guy behind the counter took a look at me and said "Oh no!". Apparently, I was a bit too pushy with my previous visit with him about these Federal Standard codes. Plus, he didn't really know what he was doing. So if you get a new paint person behind the counter this is what you tell them to do:
1) Have them access the Home Depot Computer (no we are not matching a color)
2) While in the computer, have them select the <Competitor Color Look Up> option
3) Select <Federal Standard> as the manufacturer
4) Enter the FIVE DIGIT Federal Standard code (leave out the FS)
5) Tell them that you want Behr Exterior Flat as the base. You can go with the cheap Behr or the more expensive Behr Ultra.

The paint codes used for the MERDC Winter Verdant are as follows:
FS 34079 - Forest Green
FS 30118 - Field Drab (Brown Tone)
FS 30277 - Sand (Tan accents)
FS 37038 - Black

I only got one gallon of the Forest Green and Field Drab. I only got one quart of the Sand and Black.
The FS24097 is also listed as Forest Green in the system so it should be pretty darn close. However, looking at the small paint sample on the lid, the 24097 looks pretty dark. I will need to put a little paint on the goat and compare it to the can of Gillespie 34097 I have left over from a few years ago.
Addendum:
OK did the color comparison and I am not going with the FS24097. I rummaged around the garage and did find a brand new west coast mirror dated 1984 in Forest Green. I'll be taking it to Home Depot for a color match. Lesson learned!
 

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wsucougarx

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Washington State
FS34079 Color Matched

I wasn't giving up too easy on this whole FS34097 charade. I took in a mid '80's non-CARC'd west coast mirror that looked way too dark to be a 383 CARC Green tone. I compared this mirror color to the Federal Standard chart and looked like a match. The paint mixer made up a small sample for 1 cent. It was an exact match to the mirror so I had him make up two gallons. Turns out they were still out of my cheap Behr Exterior Flat paint so they gave me two gallons of Behr Ultra for the same price as the cheap stuff.
 

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wsucougarx

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Washington State
Ever wonder what's under the passenger seat panel? Nothing but space and grime. There was a huge accumulation of sand, oil, grease, organic material, and unknown material. It was about 1/4" thick. I just used a plastic scraper and got all that junk up in short order.
 

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wsucougarx

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Washington State
Tail Lights Inop...

I removed my brake light lenses to get the part number off them to replace them. I quickly figured out why my tail lights are inoperable. The port side is worse than the starboard. Though the starboard looks OK, the bulbs are completely rusted to the sockets. Looks like I'll be replacing all four lights. I've found plenty of the blackout light out there, but the red lensed brake lights seem to be a challenge. Looks like I just missed my chance with Erik's. They have the assy listed but are currently out of stock.
 

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quarkz

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Kennewick, WA
Look up electrolysis, rust removal on YouTube. Should be able to reclaim most of those PC boards with little effort. Run just long enough to get rid of the rust and not the zinc plated sockets.
 

juanprado

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Metairie/La (N'awlins)
I removed my brake light lenses to get the part number off them to replace them. I quickly figured out why my tail lights are inoperable. The port side is worse than the starboard. Though the starboard looks OK, the bulbs are completely rusted to the sockets. Looks like I'll be replacing all four lights. I've found plenty of the blackout light out there, but the red lensed brake lights seem to be a challenge. Looks like I just missed my chance with Erik's. They have the assy listed but are currently out of stock.
Evil Dr Porkchop was selling the red lens a while back
 

wsucougarx

Well-known member
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48
Location
Washington State
Driver & Passenger Seat Frame Quick Release pins MS17989C614

When I got my Goat, it was missing one of those quick release pins for the seat frames. For some reason, I was unable to track down just one pin for a decent price. I found one pin but the fella wanted $26/pin. Then I found a listing for aircraft pins and the part number matched perfectly. I secured the four NOS pins for $25 shipped;-)

Project Cost:
1) Four Pins $25/shipped
 

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wsucougarx

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Washington State
Transfer Case Gear Oil Peep Hose and Air Box Drain Hose

I bought 2 feet of 1/4" I.D. Fuel/Gas resistant hose to replace the very aged hose on the transfer case. After I got my Goat home, I drained all the fluid in the truck. As you know, if you drain the transfer case, you've got to re-prime the transfer case. The little bit of hose on the pump line was so yellowed I couldn't make out whether or not gear oil was making it's way up. I took the pump line out to make sure the pump was doing it's job...it was.
I also decided to order a bit more hose to tackle that mess the Air Box drain tube can make. I put the remainder of hose on the end of the tube and plan to have it drain into some kind of container. I just need to look around the garage and make up something.

Project Cost:
1) Hose $4.22 shipped
 

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wsucougarx

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Washington State
Radio Mount Riser, Mirror Arms, and Mirrors

As Christmas bears down, I can't help but feel a little guilty getting boxes on the porch. My poor kids think they're Christmas presents for them. The looks on their faces brings guilt when you tell them they're Gama Goat parts;-)
Today I got a couple boxes of goodies. I finally broke down and ordered four adjustable mirror arms and a VRC-12 radio mount riser from Eastern Surplus. I paid $12/mirror arm and $21 for the radio mount riser. Shipping for the items cost as much as the mirror arms alone. Not sure why the shipping is so pricey. I'd buy more from them if they had more realistic shipping costs. Granted, they're money makers are probably trucks and trailers and not little parts. Just glad they had what I wanted.
I also bought a set of NOS HMMWV mirrors via Ebay for $57 shipped apparently. Didn't know I had them but glad I found them as I need them.

Project Cost:
1) HMMWV Mirrors $54 shipped
2) VRC-12 Radio Mount Riser $21*
3) Adjustable Mirror Arms $48*/4 arms
* shipped price $111
 

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mkcoen

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Spring Branch, TX
Not sure why the shipping is so pricey. I'd buy more from them if they had more realistic shipping costs.
Check my Goat thread regarding their shipping and why I'll never use them again. Even if they had the only piece I'd ever need and no one else did.
 

wsucougarx

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Location
Washington State
looks like the same pin to hold the hood stay on the 5 ton.
It is almost the same pin. The one I used is a bit shorter but the same diameter. Good eye Peter!

Check my Goat thread regarding their shipping and why I'll never use them again. Even if they had the only piece I'd ever need and no one else did.
Yah, I was a bit disappointed when I saw the invoice. However, it was quickly offset by the fact they had a pretty rare part in NOS condition. From what I've heard, that radio mount riser is RARE. I was a bit surprised to see it with a price tag of $21. Too bad they only had the one. I need two.
 

wsucougarx

Well-known member
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Location
Washington State
Secured a few more parts today.

With the stormy weather and lack of outdoor chores, I bought some more maintenance parts. I figured I'll be getting some more garage time so it's time to tackle those projects I have been putting off. I've got to get more parts like a master cylinder, flex brake hoses and other soft parts first. This is at least a start of what I need. I have put the bearing and wheel cylinders off and have concentrated on cool stuff like comm gear. Time to get back to the priority list and get this thing on the road.
Erik came through for me and had a pair of Gama Goat brake lights. In fact he got a total of 6 lights over the weekend. Peter, I still need a couple spares:) I also was perusing and found some unobtanium rear antenna mounts for the carriage!!!!! I didn't want to buy them but as previously stated. When you see them, don't wait...buy them while you can! I still need the two larger corner mounts for the front of the carrier.

Project Cost:
1) M561/M792 steering rod bushings p/n 11601588-2 $26.88 shipped (4 bushings)
2) M561/M792 Wheel Cylinders p/n F7276 NSN: 6253-00-024-51170 $75 shipped (6 cylinders)
3) M561/M792 Brake Lights p/n 10920548-1 NSN: 6220-00-880-1237
4) M561/M792 Antenna Mount p/n SC-D-446390 NSN:5985-00-493-3045
 

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wsucougarx

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Washington State
Air Line and Hydraulic Line Metal Tubes Smashed

Today, I went out to look at the soft parts on the Goat. I was paying particular attention to the hoses between the tractor and carrier unit. The hoses didn't look too bad. As I inspected them, my attention was drawn to the metal tube lines. Looks like something heavy fell right on them. They appear to be completely smashed. Looks like I'll need to get those metal lines replaced unless I can just run an extra length of hose from the tractor to the tractor and do away with the metal lines altogether. Anyone have any input or know where I can source the metal tubes or extra length air hose and hydraulic hose? Are the hoses and metal lines the same? They look the same externally but unsure if the connections are the same or not.
Does anyone know the P/N's for the two tubes???
 

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combat32

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Booneville AR.
Are those the lines on the tractor?

Looks like they are, if so I think the hard lines on the parts goat I have access to are in good shape.
If you are not in a big hurry I can probably stop and check on them later this week.
 
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