• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Tires. 14.00s vs 16.00s

skav

Member
94
0
6
Location
Castaic/CA
All of the wheel talk got me thinking about the difference between running 14.00s vs 16.00s on an A2.

Who has swapped to 16.00s and what differences did you see between the two?

Did it slow the truck noticeably?

Was the ride better or worse with the 16.00s?

Were there any clearance issues with the 16.00s?

Any other feedback?
 

162tcat

Active member
710
46
28
Location
Washington
I swapped from 14.00 to 16.00's on both my A1 and A2. Run HEMTT rims and you won't have any issues. They are close in the back but after about 9k combined miles it's never been an issue. I just can't run rear chains. No noticeable difference in power and the ride is much smoother.
 

skav

Member
94
0
6
Location
Castaic/CA
I swapped from 14.00 to 16.00's on both my A1 and A2. Run HEMTT rims and you won't have any issues. They are close in the back but after about 9k combined miles it's never been an issue. I just can't run rear chains. No noticeable difference in power and the ride is much smoother.
Thanks for the reply!

What's the difference between the hemtt and combat rim? I'm assuming the hemtts have more offset?

If so, any idea how much?

Is there anyway to keep the ctis w the hemtts?
 

Special T

Member
495
21
18
Location
Wetside/ WA
Hemmit rims have a thicker center and are of a heavier gauge. 1600 xzl are rated for 15k and 1400 are 10k lbs. They are the same rim width so mounting would be fine but if your gona work them hard you may want the more skookum wheel.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
Mine is a bit bouncy, on small roads. O.K. on A roads etc. ( I have 35.p.s.i. all round). speed and power is great. (with corresponding lower R.P.M.s.).
 

skav

Member
94
0
6
Location
Castaic/CA
Thanks for the replies guys. Good info.

35psi should make it feel like sitting on a cloud;).

I plan to keep the ctis for now, so I don't see that being an option on the street.

With the larger sidewall, was there any increased side to side bounce?
 

162tcat

Active member
710
46
28
Location
Washington
The Hemtt rims have a different offset that allows you to run the 16.00's in the front without rubbing.

My truck is rock solid after the switch. More stable than before. I work my truck hard and other than a bigger step to get in, the 16.00's have been a big improvement in terms of load and handling.
 

my76fj40

Member
46
0
6
Location
MT
I thought there was a few posts reporting rubbing of the 16's under heavy articulation? No personal experience though.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Problem I ran into on my old M61 was that when I get in some real thick sticky mud it would nearly lock the rear tires up getting jammed between them with the whole 3 finger widths between them. They all ride better with aleast 1000lbs or more in the rear. Maybe an ecology block? Mine road so good with 6 yards of mulch in the back, I left it in there for a few weeks before I got motivated enough to shovel it out.
 

VPed

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,108
304
83
Location
Clint, TX
Are spacers an option with a 5t?
Most of the rubbing occurs when the rear axles move in opposite ways, and the upward moving tires hit the underside of the bed. Obviously not a problem with a tractor, unless it has a trailer. As far as spacers to fix that problem, it would be fairly easy to fab up a spacer for the rubber bump stops that are there to limit upward travel of the axles. Of course this would be at the expense of suspension travel, which is detrimental to off-road performance in certain terrain conditions.

Or you could cut or otherwise modify the bed, as in adding fender wells/wheel tubs:)
 

skav

Member
94
0
6
Location
Castaic/CA
Most of the rubbing occurs when the rear axles move in opposite ways, and the upward moving tires hit the underside of the bed. Obviously not a problem with a tractor, unless it has a trailer. As far as spacers to fix that problem, it would be fairly easy to fab up a spacer for the rubber bump stops that are there to limit upward travel of the axles. Of course this would be at the expense of suspension travel, which is detrimental to off-road performance in certain terrain conditions.

Or you could cut or otherwise modify the bed, as in adding fender wells/wheel tubs:)
What about the front? Any issues there? That's what I was referring to when I mentioned spacers. I was thinking that they rubbed the frame at full lock. Adding a space on the back side of the rim.
 

Bhpdbrad

Member
103
13
18
Location
Ventura County, CA
Question for those that have done the 14's to 16's conversion on their 5-tons... specifically any 923 or 925 A2's:

I was told that if/when you air down to 'Sand' mode the rears would rub. Any info on this?

It kind of reminds me of the old joke about tires being flat..."but only on the bottoms". (leaving me to wonder how reduced air pressure could increase the overall tire diameter that much).
 
Last edited:

Russ Knight

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,117
1,054
113
Location
Perry, FL
I too, am very interested in this. Following. Right now with 14.00 Goodyears, my truck is the SR&R Express. Shake, rattle & roll.
 

Lonnie

Member
201
20
18
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
I added a full length 4x4 between the bed & top of the frame. I haven't had the opportunity to see if the tires still hit, but it is an improvement.
 

lindsey97

Member
738
16
18
Location
wynnewood, oklahoma
weeds_artic 001.jpgweeds_artic 003.jpgweeds_artic 004.jpgweeds_artic 009.jpg

This is Weeds, the M923A0 with no mods to the truck. Tires are 16.00r20 on Hemtt rims.

Tires will just touch the bed in the back at max articulation, with no load. Bed is not bent or deformed in any way after tires have contacted it. If the truck had weight in the bed compressing the spring packs, the tires might achieve contact with the bed easier.

Absolutely no issues on the front whatsoever, as long as Hemtt rims are used, which have 2.5" additional negative backspacing. You turn the wheels lock to lock with either front spring compressed, and the frame twisted up, and have no rubbing or contact on the front.
 
Last edited:

71DeuceAK

Well-known member
1,513
416
83
Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
I've also heard of people putting the bed of a 923/925/etc on spacers to alleviate this, i.e it sits higher on top of the frame. I think with mine I may be acquiring I'd probably try another 2" thick piece of hardwood on top of the existing piece. I'm planning on taking mine off-road often so flexing will be a thing, but if you aren't I see no reason to- smoother ride but if you're staying on the beaten path it's just more work and of course the bed is that much higher up (it's high as it is on G177's!)
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks