M1028 hub service

[reaper556]

tried a search but only got 1 result for a 1009. Anyone have a good how to for servicing/greasing the front hubs/lockouts on a 1008/1028?

I would like to pull mine down and clean and grease but don't want to get in over my head

 

[78bigten]

This link has how to replace the 30 spline axle shafts with 35 spline. If you scroll down about half way part 2 is removing the lockouts. There are some pictures to help. http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Dana_60_Front_Axle_35-Spline_Upgrade/index.html

 

[Chaski]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148480-Warn-standard-Hubs-on-Dana-60-M1008
Above link should get you in the ballpark on the locking hubs.

Something else. I have rebuilt two Dana 60 front ends. Upon teardown both had damage on the bearing surface of the outer stub shafts. It seems like crud enters the hub through the seals on the stub shaft. It goes through the seals, through a roller bearing that supports the inner stub shaft, then through the spindle into the locking hub assembly, then into your wheel bearings. In my experience if you have contamination in the locking hubs(or even if you don't, it is 30 years old), you should pull it all the way down to the knuckles and check the stub shaft support bearings. You may even need to replace your stub shafts, as the grease can wash out so badly that the bearings beat up the shaft, and then it corrodes when parked. You can end up with a stub shaft that has a bearing surface that looks like a minature railroad track from the roller bearings sitting in one place corroding.

If you do decide to pull it apart the only special tools you will need is a small press (if you change bearings) and a spindle nut socket. The socket you need will be 2 9/16" OD with four "teeth". You should be able to get one at your favorite online retailer or local auto parts store.

 

[cucvrus]

tried a search but only got 1 result for a 1009. Anyone have a good how to for servicing/greasing the front hubs/lockouts on a 1008/1028?

I would like to pull mine down and clean and grease but don't want to get in over my head

Both of them come apart about the same. Everything is just bigger on the Dana 60 vs the Corporate 10 bolt. Both of them have the same inner spindle bearings and they are usually neglected. The Dana 60 you pull the hub off with a torx 25 and undo the nuts and lock. Use a socket is best but a small punch works great in a pinch. Pull the rotor hub assembly. The 6 nuts holding the stub on are 1/2" trucks vs 3/8" on the M1009. Use a 3/4" socket and take the nuts and washers off. You may need to beat the stub off with a piece of wood as an idolator to strike on. I had to beat very hard with a sledge and an oak 4 X 4 to get a few off both the Dana 60 and the Corporate 10 bolts. Nothing will be hurt if you use wood. Also the bearings can be a challenge to get out. I usually burn them out carefully with my torch if all else fails. Clean and polish everything nice and smooth and pack with a good wheel bearing grease after you have installed new spindle bearings. Same as the wheel bearings. Many I bought were neglected to the point that I had to replace all the wheel bearings and races. And not a bad idea if you are going to keep the truck. And while you have it apart you may as well change the calipers and polish the travel rails on the caliper mounting casts. The hammer slides on the caliper locks are inexpensive and you can keep the old ones for spares. Do as you wish but if you do everything right the first time. It will be a long time before you must visit that area again. Bonus points for replacing the out axle U-joints. At this point after over 30 years it is a sure bet that the are dry and just waiting to go out at the most in opportune time. Now back to your original question. the hubs require very little grease. Just a good cleaning and light greasing after they are completely dis-assembled. I have many OEM black hubs sets for parts. Give me a shout if the need arises. thank you. Good Luck have a great day enjoy your CUCV for what it was intended. After that that is your truck do as you wish. I did put a set of auto locking hubs on an M1009 and I had no issues with them. I sort of liked them.

 

[cucvrus]

I rebuilt my hubs for terminus M1009. I added the red/whit conspicuous tape to show lock and free. White on white free. White on Red locked. Small red could be added to the center so you are not 180 degrees off. I am smarter then that. Am I ?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I am smarter then that. Am I ?

You don't really want us to answer that, do you?





** Target of opportunity, left front, add 50, fire for effect.

 

[cucvrus]

You don't really want us to answer that, do you?





** Target of opportunity, left front, add 50, fire for effect.

Nicer picture. More details and yes I did make them idiot proof. RED to RED is LOCK. RED to WHITE is FREE. That was easy. CUCVLOVER it will soon be Christmas don't get excited yet. I did not forget.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I have had great success pulling spindle bearings with a Snap-On pilot bearing puller.

 

[cucvrus]

Yes i agree that works great. But most times the ones I take apart are just shattered bearing cages. And they are stainless or some strange alloy that is brittle and does not cooperate with my pulling efforts. The torch does just fine in the interim.