Leaking fuel tank, hard start and stall on m1028

[Truckyea]

About 10 months ago my fuel tank leaked all over my driveway after filling it. It stop after a few days, but shortly after that, the 6.2 popped on my way to work.

Fast forward, I have since been way to busy to mess with it until now during my lay off season.

Since then I dropped in a new motor (6.5TD) and 2 new battery's just recently.
I have also bought a few more new parts including a new 20 gallon fuel tank but, haven't changed the tank yet being that the gauge still reads 3/4 full.

My question is, will a hole in the tank from rust I guess give me hard starting/stall no restart issues???

I swapped over everything from my 6.2 to the 6.5, full mechanical, accessories and all.

She will start and run but only for a few minutes at best then die.
Then bleeding the air out over and over via stock canister or switching over to the 6.5 style filter and bleeding it basically the same way, it will still only start up after approximately 30 mins later after stalling no matter witch fuel/water separator I use. So I can rule out a faulty 6.2 fuel block.
I also get a plenty of fuel from the stock mechanical lift pump, not measured, but will almost instantly fill a filter and make a mess.

 

[Truckyea]

Anyone?
Will a leaking fuel tank cause these issues?

 

[Hasdrubal]

No..a leaking tank will not cause this. You are losing prime. Air is being introduced into the system. Check all lines and connections. Is your lift pump good?

 

[Truckyea]

I thought it was good, with the amount of fuel that I get when I purge the canister.
Is there another method to check the lift pump? Besides trying a new one
I'm getting fuel that's what's got me puzzled.

 

[Truckyea]

Noticed that the threaded line going into the lift pump was a little wet. Disconnected it, and noticed there wasn't an O ring, should there be one there?

 

[Truckyea]

No answers, I put a o ring in there to no prevail. So I'm guessing it's the stock lift pump. If that is the case I will be upgrading to an electric one, and just reinstall the turbo oil drain

 

[cucvrus]

That is supposed to be a double flare fitting at the lift pump delivery side. No O ring required. If that is wet that is where it is dropping fuel. Did you notice if it was stripped or cross threaded or just plain mutilated at the connection? I seen and repaired some that were installed with vise grips. Easy fix would be to get a new steel line bend it and put it in place. But then I would do that and change the fuel pump and think nothing of it if that is what it would take to fix the issue. No need to go electric. IMHO the original design is the best. i said my piece it's your truck do as you wish. But now you are adding another circuit on what other people on this site call the worst vehicles for electrical issues in the history of vehicles. Obviously they never worked on an Iveco. I don't believe that but the way i see them CUCV's hacked up I know why others feel that way. Peace man have a great day.

 

[Truckyea]

Thanks, yes I did notice the threads are chewed a little.
I bought a 6" strait piece and was just heading out the door to swap it out. Wish me luck, I'd rather keep it all mechanical.

 

[cucvrus]

That will be good. i would disconnect the batteries and remove the right alternator so you can get access to that area. Just double flare the other end and put a union in place. I would NOT use a compression fitting in that area. But that is me do as you want. i just have no time for half fas work. I seen them twist and leak already. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

A hole caused by rust won't cause hard starting, but the rust that caused the hole might. Checked your filter lately?

 

[Truckyea]

Yes, my filters are fine.
I just finished installing 6" brake line with fittings as the parts store guy told me to try.
Opened the bleeder and she fired up spewing diesel everywhere until I could close the valve.
She shutdown after a min, so no difference.
But ever since I changed the ignition she won't go into park and it seems like she starts in reverse. Weird

 

[cucvrus]

Sounds like you need to adjust the shift rod linkage. just go under the truck with a 1/2" wrench socket and loosen the slide on the shift rod. Have a friend helper hold the vehicle in park and you make sure the vehicle is in park at the transmission. Block the wheels and set the parking brake before you go under the truck to make these adjustments. Block all 4 wheels on both sides just to be safe. Or have someone you know and trust hold the service brakes while you do the shift linkage adjustment.

 

[Truckyea]

Okie doke, I'll give her a try tomorrow

 

[cucvrus]

Report back please.

 

[Truckyea]

Will do. So I'm leaning towards putting in a new lift pump in tomorrow as well. That is if any of the local parts stores have one.
The is my first diesel, I'm just trying to figure this thing out. Simple by design for sure. Yet a sbc will run with the fuel the "lift pump" is putting out.

 

[cucvrus]

Totally different fuel delivery system on a diesel. Beware of lift pumps. You should be able to get the pumping action as soon as the lever is pushed on. Some the lever needs to go down farther to get the same action. I have had this issue with a few pumps from different vendors. Autozone sells GM pumps I can't think of the name at this moment. Delphi pumps. I will look up the part # and edit this post.

 

[Truckyea]

Oh great.
When I popped my 6.2, I just swapped everything over to this 6.5TD, it was super cheap and reasonable close.
I knew I should have just bought a new one while I was at it.

 

[cucvrus]

Compare

Vehicle Specific Delphi/Fuel Pump

Price: $45.99

• Part Number: CHFP906

 

[Truckyea]

Looks exactly like mine, thanks for the part #

 

[rsh4364]

Also do yourself a favor and add a Mr gasket #1560 fuel psi gauge, will help with fuel pressure diagnosis.