Leaking fuel tank, hard start and stall on m1028

[Truckyea]

Cool beans

 

[cucvrus]

Also do yourself a favor and add a Mr gasket #1560 fuel psi gauge, will help with fuel pressure diagnosis.

Rick quit adding all that stuff. It is a simple design keep it simple. In the Civil war they used horses and donkeys. and men walked or road a horse. In World war 1 they still used a lot of horses and men still walked a lot. World war 2 a lot of horses and the Jeep/big trucks /tanks many men still walked. In Korea horses and donkeys again. Along with Jeeps/big trucks/tanks and some helicopters many men still walked. Vietnam helicopters/ jeeps /tanks / big trucks and still many men walked. Then the CUCV came along to fill that gap of peace. It was a standard HD off the shelf truck with HD modifications to electrical and other minor changes to suit military use it served its purpose for what it was intended. Still men walking. Need I go on. I have quite an imagination on this subject. But everyone of the vehicles and horses and mules trucks and helicopters were cared for and maintained by a field manual that told you exactly how and when to maintain the equipment to keep it standard and reliable for its intended purpose. That made it easier for every GI that came in contact with that vehicle to maintain it and operate it for its intended purpose and application. The boy from Iowa maintained and repaired it the same way as the guy in Burma and Chosin Reservoir. It sure beats the pants off of walking and I still think that in its original form it is a very reliable vehicle. Once it is modified the sky is the limit to get help over the internet by asking a question without having a birds eye view and a schematic of everything you changed deleted and modified. I tried to answer your fast idle question to the best of my ability. Do you see where I am going with this? I am making humor with my long drawn out post. Don't take me serious and get angry. it is all in fun. But it works that way in every vehicle we manufacture. We have to say what screws go where and what color the wire is and where it goes so that when it comes time to fix it in Tinbuckto it can be done without a deciphering enigma machine to diagnose every possible scenario of failure. Make any sense? I guess not Peace man. I am going to bed. But this was in fun only. Don't take it any other way. i don't like walking as much anymore so I keep mine as is with no modifications. Same as my Cave man. Have a great day. I am a novice that loves the CUCV the way it was built. After that it is going down hill. I make any changes (MY MULE)they are bolt on and bolt off back to OEM design. That is the only way these vehicles will retain their value. How many have you tried to sell? I sold many and parted out even more. Most guys I deal with are looking for the real bare bones thing not a hacked up cut up beatnik wagon that has issues every week. Really do you know I am just having fun with some facts here?

 

[rsh4364]

A couple years ago I was getting the ac/Delco pumps from Summit for 28 bucks! I ordered 2.

 

[rsh4364]

Rick quit adding all that stuff. It is a simple design keep it simple. In the Civil war they used horses and donkeys. and men walked or road a horse. In World war 1 they still used a lot of horses and men still walked a lot. World war 2 a lot of horses and the Jeep/big trucks /tanks many men still walked. In Korea horses and donkeys again. Along with Jeeps/big trucks/tanks and some helicopters many men still walked. Vietnam helicopters/ jeeps /tanks / big trucks and still many men walked. Then the CUCV came along to fill that gap of peace. It was a standard HD off the shelf truck with HD modifications to electrical and other minor changes to suit military use it served its purpose for what it was intended. Still men walking. Need I go on. I have quite an imagination on this subject. But everyone of the vehicles and horses and mules trucks and helicopters were cared for and maintained by a field manual that told you exactly how and when to maintain the equipment to keep it standard and reliable for its intended purpose. That made it easier for every GI that came in contact with that vehicle to maintain it and operate it for its intended purpose and application. The boy from Iowa maintained and repaired it the same way as the guy in Burma and Chosin Reservoir. It sure beats the pants off of walking and I still think that in its original form it is a very reliable vehicle. Once it is modified the sky is the limit to get help over the internet by asking a question without having a birds eye view and a schematic of everything you changed deleted and modified. I tried to answer your fast idle question to the best of my ability. Do you see where I am going with this? I am making humor with my long drawn out post. Don't take me serious and get angry. it is all in fun. But it works that way in every vehicle we manufacture. We have to say what screws go where and what color the wire is and where it goes so that when it comes time to fix it in Tinbuckto it can be done without a deciphering enigma machine to diagnose every possible scenario of failure. Make any sense? I guess not Peace man. I am going to bed. But this was in fun only. Don't take it any other way. i don't like walking as much anymore so I keep mine as is with no modifications. Same as my Cave man. Have a great day. I am a novice that loves the CUCV the way it was built. After that it is going down hill. I make any changes (MY MULE)they are bolt on and bolt off back to OEM design. That is the only way these vehicles will retain their value. How many have you tried to sell? I sold many and parted out even more. Most guys I deal with are looking for the real bare bones thing not a hacked up cut up beatnik wagon that has issues every week. Really do you know I am just having fun with some facts here?

Thank you Rick for your input, but I will stand my ground on adding gauges,fuel psi, oil psi and water temperature it's easy cheap and can help save a motor,especially if running a turbo.

 

[cucvrus]

Turbo. What is a turbo? I didn't know a CUCV had a turbo. You have a turbo? I never worked on a turbo CUCV. I wouldn't even know where to start. I guess I could check the oil and kick the tires. I am walking again. If that thing don't start lighten up your gear and put on a dry pair of socks with your boots. Put the left foot in front of the right and repeat as often as it takes to reach the destination. Turbo. Never even heard of one on a CUCV. That just adds more parts to go wrong. No turbo here. And it still keeps going and going. Don't see one here either. HMMMM. No HMMWV they have a turbo on some. But I never saw one of them either.

 

[Truckyea]

 

[cucvrus]

All in fun on my part. all in fun. Why not have fun its just a hobby. If I can't have fun at my hobby it is no longer a hobby it is work.

 

[Truckyea]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-6-2L-DIESEL-General-Motors-bulletin-89-329-6

 

[Truckyea]

Found this, but it's mostly known.
The only trick I haven't tried is to run my lift pump directly from a 5 gal diesel can.
I'm going to the part store here shortly get a can for diesel, and giving it a go.

From what I read if she runs, it's getting air in the system on the suction side "before the pump".

And if I have the same symptoms, I'm having issues on the return side, or maybe the feed hose to the injector pump from the filter.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Trace the feeder lines back to the tank. Make sure non have holes or any think from rust, rot, or rubbing something.

 

[Truckyea]

I've checked, they only other way I've read to check is buy pumping pressure through a hole in a spare filler cap. Being that my tank has a leak, I don't think that will work until I swap in the new tank a sending unit.

Looking for a spare 3/8 hose now to hook up the the pump supply from the gas can

 

[cucvrus]

Trace the feeder lines back to the tank. Make sure non have holes or any think from rust, rot, or rubbing something.

Chase them lines be thinking? What you think they thinking about? Thinking about wheeling in the mountains of south central Pennsylvania?

 

[Truckyea]

I was thinking Ohio, maybe down on the farm in WV

 

[CUCVLOVER]

I've checked, they only other way I've read to check is buy pumping pressure through a hole in a spare filler cap. Being that my tank has a leak, I don't think that will work until I swap in the new tank a sending unit.

Looking for a spare 3/8 hose now to hook up the the pump supply from the gas can

You could pull the line off the sending unit and put air into it and also try to get it to run off the can of fuel.
Does the truck have a flatbed or is the bed off yet? It makes things much easier with a flatbed when working on the tank.

 

[Truckyea]

Great idea.
No the bed is not off yet, pita to get the bolts out the last two times I tried. They will need to be cut.

Unfortunately I got the same result with the gas can. Ran for a minute and a half

 

[Truckyea]

This tells me to go a head and pull the trigger on that pump

 

[cucvrus]

Get a propane torch and a vise grips. It will work to get the bolts off. Easier then cutting them. Replace them when you have them off. Standard 1/2" carriage bolts work just fine unless you are restoring then I doubt you would be here asking about the injection pump.

 

[Truckyea]

Great idea, I will have to get ahold of my cousin at his shop to barrow a bunch of tools as is.

With the over all condition of the truck is easier to just use it as a toy/work truck.
I had to make a 1" body lift to clear the 3" down-pipe I made.
It's all very thrown together temporarily until I get her running and can have custom parts made

 

[Truckyea]

I have all the new pump, and various other parts here now, but old man winter decided to show up, so I'll be a while.

While messing with my old lift pump one day, I was getting really frustrated with the angels the darn line go in and out of the lift pump, and the inlet line it's self. What a pita.

Ideas for later after I get the problems I'm having solved is to go a more direct route with the fuel entering and exiting the lift pump.

I was looking everywhere and tried to cross reference the 6.2 lift pump with the small block Chevy pump, I'm 100% sure it will bolt up.

The thing is, there are a lot more options for the sbc guys.
In my search I've found Clockable and dual fitting inlet/outlet ports sbc pumps. Some are even fully self serviceable, there for rebuildable.

Most of the pumps have the same volume and pressure, some a little more.
I'm not sure what other differences there could be, internally and push rod lengths?

Can anyone verify this?
I'd really like to do this and seal up the fuel system why bringing it up to date and making it more easier to service.

 

[Skinny]

Dont' reinvent the wheel. Get a good quality AC Delco replacement. Thread the fitting on half way first before bolting the pump to the block, it will make life easier. It's not difficult to replace, it's that the location requires some flexibility to do. Once it is done you are good to go for quite some time.