Looking for recommendations on Injection Pump rebuild in the Ft. Worth area

[Jack Lope]

I began the project thinking it was a simple leak. Replace some rubber hoses, and move on. But, after removing the intake manifold, seeing how dry the hose is and how wet the injection pump is on the throttle cable side, I'm guessing my pressure leak is coming from it. When I bought the truck, it used to spew diesel all over, coming from the injection pump area. After driving it a few times, that leak went away. I'm guessing it's back as an air leak. I'm feeling a bit defeated at the moment. I'm no mechanic and the thought of trying to remove or reinstall the IP makes me nervous. In the meantime, does anyone in the DFW area know of someone that can rebuild an injection pump? It seems I should go this route since I've already got the intake manifold removed.

 

[cucvrus]

You can go on line and look up Diesel Care in Memphis TN. They will ship you a UPS ticket and you box up your pump and send it to them for rebuilding. You get the same pump delivered back to your door with a 1 year warranty. I have installed many of these. The total cost is $275. from your door and back to your door. Local shops around me want $500- $650. to do the same thing with the same warranty. I go to Diesel care. The famous online auction site has the 6.2 diesel injection pump listed and the price. Good Luck. It is an easy task. CUCVLOVER just changed his and said how easy it was once he got started. Any questions ask them. The dumb ones are the ones you don't ask.

 

[Jack Lope]

Hey, thanks for that recommendation. I'll check it out. I'm looking into how to remove the injection pump. Hoping to start trying to pull it tomorrow. It's the unknown thank makes this project intimidating.

 

[cucvrus]

First thing disconnect the batteries and get the intake manifold off. All 15mm deep socket will work for you. Take the lines off at the nozzles and pull the oil fill cap and neck assembly. I will check back with you. Good Luck. Very easy and straight forward. No worries. It is almost fool proof.

 

[Jack Lope]

This is where I left off yesterday. Fuel filter housing and intake manifold removed. This project keeps growing the deeper I dig. I originally thought I just had a leak at the filter housing. Any suggestions on cleaning the surface for a new manifold gasket without getting water in the engine? I have sponges shoved in now just to keep any falling debris out.

 

[cucvrus]

You are doing great. Are you keeping notes on the stud/bolt location? If not i have a few notes for you. OK remove the 7 mm screws that hold the injection lines to the brackets on the valve covers. Should be 4 very short ones. Use a 13 mm deep socket and remove the 2 nuts holding the oil fill neck in place. If it twists the stud behind it get a thin wrench and hold the stud nut or just keep turning and straighten the hold downs later. Remove the oil fill neck and grommet from filler hole. There are 3 13mm bolts on the gear that you must remove. jam some tape or cloth on the end of the socket and carefully remove the bolts as they appear in the opening. The pump only fits one way so you are good. No worries. Using a 15/16"/24mm socket and a 1/2' ratchet turn the engine on the main crank shaft bolt to access the 3 13 mm bolts in the oil filler hole. Remove the 3 15 mm nuts that hold the injection pump on the back side of the timing cover. A shallow swivel socket works well. Or a little patience. Make sure you have the be jesus clip off the throttle shaft and remove the throttle cable from the shaft and securing bracket. Secure it aside if you have not already done so. Use care as the eye end of the throttle cable has a rubber grommet and a small nylon inner ring. Remove the wiring and the hoses from the rear of the pump and the return line. Loosen/ remove the 8 nuts that hold the injection pump line to the delivery nozzles. After everything is removed as outlined wiggle the pump loose. Carefully remove the injection pump with all the delivery lines still attached. I will check back on your progress. i am only trying to help you from afar. i think I covered everything and I am sure others have different ways of doing it. This is my time proven way. I tend to do a lot of extra clean up and painting when i tear my own things down. That is all optional. Take a picture of things as you go as a reference for reassembling. Most important are the placement of the injection delivery lines. use a clock and take a picture. Mark the lines as 12 o clock and anyway you can so you get them back in place properly. It is easy don't sweat it. You did great so far. I am outside at my wood pil. i will check back again. I hope i am helping. if not I will shut up and go away.

 

[Chaski]

This is where I left off yesterday. Fuel filter housing and intake manifold removed. This project keeps growing the deeper I dig. I originally thought I just had a leak at the filter housing. Any suggestions on cleaning the surface for a new manifold gasket without getting water in the engine? I have sponges shoved in now just to keep any falling debris out.

Looking good. Paint remover works well on gaskets. Scrape off and vacuum up what you can with a scraper and razor blade. If there are stubborn spots brush on some good paint remover ("Dad's" is good stuff).

The writeup by cucvrus is very good.

Only thing I would do is get some rubber vacuum caps to place over the injectors to keep them clean. (Or duct tape)
Also Loctite the bolts for the injection pump drive gear when you assemble it.

 

[cucvrus]

I always stuff one complete square of paper towel down the 10 open holes in the heads. Also now is the time to replace the water crossover manifold gaskets and the 2 rear coolant gaskets. And do not worry the gear inside the timing cover can not jump a tooth or fall down. it was a very good design and makes reassembly a breeze. Good Luck. I use a 2" 3M rolok disc resurfacing tool on all my engine parts. Removing old gaskets with a razor blade sucks. You can get the part and arbor for a drill at a Home depot or parts store. Do as you wish.

 

[Jack Lope]

There are 3 13mm bolts on the gear that you must remove. jam some tape or cloth on the end of the socket and carefully remove the bolts as they appear in the opening. The pump only fits one way so you are good. No worries. Using a 15/16"/24mm socket and a 1/2' ratchet turn the engine on the main crank shaft bolt to access the 3 13 mm bolts in the oil filler hole. Remove the 3 15 mm nuts that hold the injection pump on the back side of the timing cover. A shallow swivel socket works well. Or a little patience. Make sure you have the be jesus clip off the throttle shaft and remove the throttle cable from the shaft and securing bracket. Secure it aside if you have not already done so. Use care as the eye end of the throttle cable has a rubber grommet and a small nylon inner ring. Remove the wiring and the hoses from the rear of the pump and the return line. Loosen/ remove the 8 nuts that hold the injection pump line to the delivery nozzles. After everything is removed as outlined wiggle the pump loose. Carefully remove the injection pump with all the delivery lines still attached.

I am very thankful for the help and encouragement! I quoted where I'm at right now with this. Not sure what you mean on some things. "Jam some tape or cloth on the end of the 13mm socket". I'm not sure what you mean by that. Where is the main engine crank shaft bolt? Is that where the fan is? I assume the fan shroud has to be removed first. A shallow swivel socket? I need to run up to Harbor Freight, maybe I should pick one up. As for the clip on the throttle shaft/throttle cable from shaft and securing bracket, I can only guess at what these parts are. I haven't studied everything connected to the IP yet.

 

[cucvrus]

The bolt on the bottom crank shaft pulley. You do not need to remove the fan or fan shroud. It is the bolt on the bottom pulley. Turn the engine clockwise to avoid loosening the bolt. I want you to put tape in the socket end so the bolts in the timing gear are secure. If you have a magnetic socket that works also. But tape is an easy substitute. The throttle cable has a small clip that holds it on the throttle shaft. Just pull out on the clip and slide it off. You can do it. The 15mm swivel socket is the only thing that would be handy to have. i am cooking chicken outside on the smoker I will be back to help if needed. You are doing great.

 

[Jack Lope]

Ok, I've got the throttle cable off and I now know what the be-jesus clip is. The rubber grommet is a little ripped on one side. Is this a replaceable part? It was ripped before I touched it, so not my fault! What is this plastic part connected? I'm not quite sure how to remove it. It looks like there are fuel lines running to it. Also, I'm not sure what you mean by "swivel socket". I ended up with a "universal joint". Not sure if that's the same thing or not and it doesn't seem shallow.

 

[cucvrus]

No problem. If you have the throttle cable disconnect you encountered the be jesus clip. Just unplug that set of rubber hoses (circled) on your shift modulator/vacuum control. That heavy rubber connection only served during assembly so the hoses were put on the correct side. It it leaks you can eliminate it and put the hoses directly onto the vacuum switch. Disconnect the return line on the top of the injection pump and turn towards the front of the truck. Then disconnect the feed line on the back and keep going. You are doing great.

 

[Chaski]

Just mark the position of it and remove the screws. The position of that vacuum switch is important. It is for the transmission, you want to clock it back to the exact position you found it when you install the rebuilt pump

 

[cucvrus]

Agree. But the washers on the bolts usually leave a mark in the plastic. We were going to get to that part. He can remove that with the entire pump and spider connection. He must be taking a Coffee break.

 

[Jack Lope]

I had to go back to Ace Hardware and exchange the 24mm socket for a deep well. I got the three bolts out though the oil tube hole. I'm only seeing three more bolts that appear to be connected to the injection pump. Two on the driver side, and one on the front. Does that sound right? [edit] I just re-read your instructions and you already answered that question!

Remove the 3 15 mm nuts that hold the injection pump on the back side of the timing cover.

 

[cucvrus]

You have that assembly off yet?

 

[Jack Lope]

You have that assembly off yet?

I have two 13mm bolts off the driver side of the pump (also connected to the fuel line bracket) and one 15mm nut on the front. I'm not sure if I'm missing another 13mm bolt, but I can't get the pump to budge. I tried tapping it with rubber hammer, but not sure how hard I should tap since not sure if I got the right bolts off.

 

[cucvrus]

You must take the 15mm nut off . The bracket can stay with the pump. Picture?

 

[Jack Lope]

It also looks like there is a metal fuel or vacuum line that I have to remove before I can take the spider off. It connects to the rubber hose in the circle picture I posted previously, runs down the passenger side valve covers and to the back somewhere. I don't think I can pull the spider out and leave that line there.

 

[Chaski]

There are three fasteners holding the pump to the block, just like cucvrus said. They are 120 degrees from one another. One on the top and two on the bottom. One on the drivers side, one on the passenger side.