$92 shutterstat fan clutch actuator

[Swamp Donkey]

With the vent being removable on that Medallion shutterstat, can you move the swap the vent and input positions to change it from a normally closed to a normally open valve?

I was pondering this today...for way too long actually, lol. Without a spare to disassemble I can't confirm but here are my thoughts.

The Evans uses two stages to activate the fan. The capsule gradually warms, which gradually allows pressure to build in the shutterstat. When the pressure rises enough it activates a poppet type valve, which instantly sends full pressure to the clutch. This keeps clutch wear down by instantly engaging the clutch, instead of a slow engagement.

If the Medallion works like this, which I think it does since it must overcome the same problem, then I think the answer would be no. I don't think the two stages would work properly in reverse. Medallion does offer NO shutterstats in various temperature ranges though. If I can get my hands on another one I'll take it apart and see how it works.

The only one I have right now is on the truck though, and it's got to get me to the rally this week. My Evans had a major complication during its last surgery so I don't have a spare in case something goes wrong during disection of the Medallion .

 

[timntrucks]

thanks for all this usefull information. im going to spend some time working on my 925a2 and see where my trouble is

 

[gottaluvit]

Thought I might get a quick answer on this thread instead of starting another one, but when it is in the single digit temperatures and I start my truck, the fan runs until the engine is completely warm and only then after the engine is shut down for a couple minutes. Is the shutterstat defective, just dirty, or is there water where there shouldn't be (air side)? Any response appreciated and thanks in advance.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Thought I might get a quick answer on this thread instead of starting another one, but when it is in the single digit temperatures and I start my truck, the fan runs until the engine is completely warm and only then after the engine is shut down for a couple minutes. Is the shutterstat defective, just dirty, or is there water where there shouldn't be (air side)? Any response appreciated and thanks in advance.

Most likely the O-rings have gotten hard and the cold is making it worse. If air leaks by an O-ring out of sequence, it'll engage the clutch and leave it engaged until system pressure comes down enough for the shutterstat to reset. There are two processes that have to take place in there and they have to go in order or it'll activate the fan and can't stop it.

Moisture could also be a problem but since shutting the truck down remedies the problem I'm going to bet the large O-ring is going to be the culprit. If it was moisture, the problem wouldn't go away so consistently with certain actions.

 

[gottaluvit]

Thank you Swamp Donkey. So that sounds like it is all on the "dry" side and no need for coolant loss. Is this a safe assumption?

 

[Marc23760]

I think this would be shorter than a coupling and nipple. It's a 1/2" male x 1/2" female adapter. It should be long enough to keep the probe from making contact while still keeping it in open coolant flow. I couldn't find one local so it should be here Tuesday. I'll compare when it gets here since I bought a brass coupling and nipple this evening.

View attachment 586832

Curious, what part number were you using on it or was it the same one I used ? I was concerned about mine hitting the radiator tank but after install (with plenty of sealant) it didn't hit.

Also, for those that have had several issues with new units leaking air and coolant, the unit I used (since install in May 15) is still working great. It doesn't get stuck running during cold, and we run our truck on the beach this winter in New England and the stat works great in the cold weather when we load up the engine.

for the price of a blown engine and the instability of rebuilding one, not to mention having to be on the side of the road in traffic (to manually get the fan going) it seems like if your truck has any symptoms of this problem the $100 fix is worth its weight in gold.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Thank you Swamp Donkey. So that sounds like it is all on the "dry" side and no need for coolant loss. Is this a safe assumption?

Yes, almost all disassembly can be done from the outside without removing it completely. Unscrew the cap on the end so that you can get all the pieces out. There is a spring and plunger behind that cap that can get away if your not careful.

Curious, what part number were you using on it or was it the same one I used ? I was concerned about mine hitting the radiator tank but after install (with plenty of sealant) it didn't hit.

Also, for those that have had several issues with new units leaking air and coolant, the unit I used (since install in May 15) is still working great. It doesn't get stuck running during cold, and we run our truck on the beach this winter in New England and the stat works great in the cold weather when we load up the engine.

for the price of a blown engine and the instability of rebuilding one, not to mention having to be on the side of the road in traffic (to manually get the fan going) it seems like if your truck has any symptoms of this problem the $100 fix is worth its weight in gold.

Are you talking about the adapter or the shuttestat?

I've had mine installed since last October and haven't had any issues. I'm happy with it so far.

 

[machinist75]

View attachment 575260 View attachment 580577
After several failed rebuilds and tons of research to not pay $250 for an Evans shutterstat for my m923a2, I found this company in Michigan whom is affiliated with fan clutch.com

i am not sure if you can post a vendor website here but here it is. I don't work or advocate for them, however, they sell a different NC shutterstat for $92 that performs the exact same function as the stock Evans shutterstat. You can also choose your temp.

I went for a 195 degree. It is a little longer than the stock one but fits just fine. I have attached a copy of my invoice (partial) so that you can grab the part number and contact info. The guys contact is Larry at X722


i wish I had done this first instead of draining my Coolant 5 times over and re testing the rebuilt stat just to find out it's still broken.

Hopefully this saves someone else the headache it gave me.

Finnally ordered one of these from this company, very easy transaction and quick shipping. Just needed a couple of fittings to space out the stat about an inch and a 90 degree elbow cause the air inlet is in the front instead of on top. The air outlet is now on top but the hose is long enough to reach the new location. My phone has taken a crap, as soon as I get it straightened out I will get some pics.

 

[70deuce]

My fix. Makes you monitor the temp but I do that regularly anyways. Cooler outside temps and the temp never gets above about 190 doing nothing.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83932-Actuator-Air-Fan-Clutch-for-M923a1/page9

 

[archmark]

Here's the link to the O-ring service kit for the OENM shutterstat from Eric's Military Supply": http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/fanclacoseki.html

 

[Doug Roberts]

I ordered one recently from White Owl in Kinston NC 252-522-2586 , George answers the phone most of the time

 

[gottaluvit]

Here's the link to the O-ring service kit for the OENM shutterstat from Eric's Military Supply": http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/fanclacoseki.html

Thank you. Just followed the link and ordered one. Mine has been staying engaged on 20° or colder days and had an audible air leak, until I would shut the truck down and drain the tanks and then restart with no problems. This never acted up when in the 30s or warmer. This is why I subscribed to this thread. I just never remembered to make the move to search for it. Thanks.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Does it matter which hole you use as far as from the valve to the fan, air to the valve? I'm trying this on a 932A2 it looks like the hose from the valve to the fan will reach to the middle hole, and the air supply to the valve in the rear end hole, but not the other way around without some fancy plumbing.

 

[simp5782]

On the NHC250 One should say in and the other should say out on it. The one closest to the to engine should say IN I believe. I don't think the A2 one is any different.

 

[archmark]

Fan Shutterstat...

Does it matter which hole you use as far as from the valve to the fan, air to the valve? I'm trying this on a 932A2 it looks like the hose from the valve to the fan will reach to the middle hole, and the air supply to the valve in the rear end hole, but not the other way around without some fancy plumbing.

Yes, it does make a difference which hose goes to which hole. Here's a link to the OEM shutterstat that Erik sells: http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/enfanclairco2.html. Yep, it's pricey but I lucked out finding an OEM one on EBay for $90. There is a video on the site (maybe somewhere in this thread) showing what it takes to modify the non-OEM one to work. You're correct, it does require the addition of a short nipple and ell cast iron fitting as I recall to clear everything and allow the original hoses to work.

I purchased the non-OEM on originally for $99 but decided to wait until an OEM came up on eBay and sure enough it did, so I've kept and modified the non-OEM one for a spare.

Good luck...

Mark

 

[simp5782]

There is one in the classifieds from Suprman up in CT

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I already have the shutterStat and no in or out markings and a brass fitting to space it out.....I'm just wondering what difference it would make to route the hoses to opposite holes as shown in the previous pics and vid's in this thread. The valve opens and air goes through it. How did the other two guys arrive at the decision the the middle hole for the air in, and the end hole for air out to the fan.....why wouldn't it work either way......it would be a lot easier for me to do air in at the end of the shutters tat and air out from the middle....

 

[archmark]

There is one in the classifieds from Suprman up in CT

That is one Hillary of a good price!!! As Loud Mouth Cramer would say, "Buy, Buy, Buy"!!!

 

[cbrTodd]

I already have the shutterStat and no in or out markings and a brass fitting to space it out.....I'm just wondering what difference it would make to route the hoses to opposite holes as shown in the previous pics and vid's in this thread. The valve opens and air goes through it. How did the other two guys arrive at the decision the the middle hole for the air in, and the end hole for air out to the fan.....why wouldn't it work either way......it would be a lot easier for me to do air in at the end of the shutters tat and air out from the middle....

When the shutterstat is closed, the input hole is closed off but the output vents to the atmosphere so the fan clutch will release. If you plumb the hoses backwards, it will leak air constantly when it is closed, and it won't release the fan clutch properly after it actuates.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

I already have the shutterStat and no in or out markings and a brass fitting to space it out.....I'm just wondering what difference it would make to route the hoses to opposite holes as shown in the previous pics and vid's in this thread. The valve opens and air goes through it. How did the other two guys arrive at the decision the the middle hole for the air in, and the end hole for air out to the fan.....why wouldn't it work either way......it would be a lot easier for me to do air in at the end of the shutters tat and air out from the middle....

The shutterstat isn't just a open/close type valve. It is more of a poppet valve and it uses two separate actions in the correct order to work right. It's only designed to work one way.

The activation temperature is the only difference between the shutterstats on the NHC250 and the 8.3, and that goes for both designs. Suprman has a great deal going on the ones he's selling. They are 190° units for the NHC250 but will work in the 8.3 just fine. The 8.3 uses a 200° unit but I don't see the 10° making much difference, since it's on the cooler side. Get them while you can. Once supply runs out, demand runs the price back up.