M1009 Intermittently Dying

[zeisshensoldt]

Here we go, so something odd just occured during the drive home in my m1009, details as follows:

Started truck up, let it warm up to 130-140, commenced driving, as I headed down the road about 10 miles i hit a bump and notice the "low coolant" light come on and off for about 1 second, ok i figured no big deal (coolant gauge was reading 198-200 the whole drive), continued driving 10-15 miles down the road, the light came on again and i immediately heard the solenoid click behind the diagnostic plug followed by the engine shutting off, i quickly fluttered the throttle pedal and it came back to life and immediately the coolant light goes off.

It repeated the above symptoms about 2-3 more times until i decided to pull over and look at belts, coolant overflow, and battery connection tightness, all looked good besides the coolant system not being pressurized. It repeated the above one final time as i was getting back into the truck, light came on, solenoid clicked, truck died, fluttered pedal, came back. Remainder of the drive home was fine. What could be going on here?

 

[cucvrus]

My guess from afar. Loose battery connections. Hard to tell at this distance. That is my guess.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

My guess from afar. Loose battery connections. Hard to tell at this distance. That is my guess.

That was my initial guess as well, but i tugged on the battery connections and bounced the batteries around a good bit by hand while the truck was running and the engine never skipped a beat...

 

[cucvrus]

Not necessarily at the battery end. Check all the cables on the firewall and the smaller fusible links. They may appear good but if you tug and squeeze them lightly they can have a loose or burnt thru connection. Just a guess but worth a look see.

 

[porkysplace]

That was my initial guess as well, but i tugged on the battery connections and bounced the batteries around a good bit by hand while the truck was running and the engine never skipped a beat...

Batteries should move when properly installed , if they are moving by pulling on the cable by hand there could damage under the insulation of the cable.

 

[royalflush55]

Batteries should move when properly installed , if they are moving by pulling on the cable by hand there could damage under the insulation of the cable.

I do not want my batteries to move when installed!!

 

[cucvrus]

My batteries never move when they are properly installed in my CUCV's.

 

[Barrman]

Give the pink wire on top of the IP a wiggle. I had one just pop off going down the road at 70 mph 230 miles into an all highway drive. I just happened to see it as soon as I popped the hood and was back on the road in a few seconds.

I think the firewall ends of your cables is probably the problem, but you never know.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

Breathe, fellas! Battery hold downs were removed, so that i could simulate shock by jiggling the batteries by hand. Anyway, i think either my ignition key wasn't turned all the way forward enough and was being shaken into the "on/off" position via bumps in the road or it was somehow jiggled from the on position into the "off/on" via the same.

 

[cucvrus]

WOW They must be some awful rough roads. As many times as I wheeled a CUCV I never had any roads that rough that it switched the position of the ignition switch. I will have to try harder. This weekend with any luck I can duplicate this on off ignition switch. Just never knew a road could get that rough. I guess I can breathe again. I have not seen it all after-all.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

Oh man, you couldn't even begin to imagine the magnitude of road decay here. The potholes are simply incomprehensibly unearthly, these specific potholes only exist in this part of the country and they're specifically made to send vehicles veering into oncoming traffic at a moments notice. White knuckle the wheel and enjoy the ride. Your wheeling has no comparison, sorry to break the news.

Steps to duplicate: #1 turn key gently until dash lights come on #2 press push start (if this doesn't apply, then go to step #3) #3 start driving (if no push start, find a large rock or something similar to bump against) #4 have fun

Anyway, anything's possible, i guess. I'm merely speculating, as the solenoid does click when the key is turned off and was unable to duplicate it today after 200 miles of driving. Furthermore, i'll be paying extra close attention to things in-case it happens again and i'll be thoroughly looking over the wiring whenever it stops raining. Thanks for the help.

 

[NovacaineFix]

What's step #3? opcorn:
Just wondering , lol

 

[porkysplace]

What's step #3? opcorn:
Just wondering , lol

Start new thread on SS.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

What's step #3? opcorn:
Just wondering , lol

Wondering as well. Fixed.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Wondering as well. Fixed.

All is good, just messin' with ya. Glad you got it fixed.

I keep an eye on these threads to see what the outcomes are, just in case my 1009 does the same thing. Just another tool in the toolbox.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

All is good, just messin' with ya. Glad you got it fixed.

I keep an eye on these threads to see what the outcomes are, just in case my 1009 does the same thing. Just another tool in the toolbox.

Roger. I'll update the thread if I come across anything further.