CUCV M1008 wont start

[CamoCUCV]

Ok finally got the last glow plug out. Replaced them all with new G60's and replaced the glow plug resistor new old stock. Now I'm getting correct voltage to glow plugs.
Tried holding down the glow plug push button for no longer then 10 seconds. But no start!
So I think I will troubleshoot fuel system tomorrow and try bleeding system again. I had to remove one injector when I was removing the GP. SO I know air must have gotten in. I wasn't thinking about that before just too excited to give it a crank after all that GP work.

 

[CamoCUCV]

I bled the fule system by first disconnecting the fuel line from the spin on filter to the IP. The first time I got noting no fuel or anything. I found some loose connections on the suction side of pump then bled again. When no spiting and straight fuel out of the filter then I hooked up the line to the IP from the filter. Then I cracked the injectors and turned it over a few times until a got a little wet little drip then tightened back. sooooo............... still not running. I'm going to let the batteries charge and give it another go. I feel confident I'm not getting fuel because I'm not seeing any smoke while cranking. I also confident its not going to start after I let it charge. lol

I'm trying to figure what would be the next step, I'm suspect of the injectors I'm suspect of the IP, I'm hearing the solenoid click but can I take it apart to check if its functioning? Also if I'm getting just a little wet not a drip when I have the injector lines cracked then I'm probable not getting enough fuel? right? I'm talking my self into the IP as the problem.

I will start by reading threads on the IP today but would appreciate some feed back! Thanks.

 

[Chaski]

Do what Barman already suggested. Pull the glow plugs, ensure that the glow plug connectors are taped and or not touching anything and turn the engine over until you have fuel mist coming out of all 8 glow plug holes. Install the glow plugs and give it a whirl. If that does not work then I would consider the injection pump. Also, it is 30 years old, and there is a lot of 30 year old hose and steel line between your fuel tank and injection pump. I pulled my bed and replaced it all on my pickup, a small air leak can drive someone to madness.

 

[Tinstar]

Had almost same issue also
No fuel at filter and down the line.

Did the old pressurize the fuel tank
Using an air hose and cloth to cover fuel neck
You could literally hear the pop of the air pocket coming out.

After that, fuel to everything and engine start.

Maybe be with a shot

 

[CamoCUCV]

Ok had to do the starter solenoid upgrade, but as recommended I pulled the glowplugs and crunk it till fuel started pumping! Took a few cranks, at first it was totally dry then started to make a fuel cloud. So I put my plugs back in and hit the glow plug button and .................. Nope .......... batteries were too wasted to get the RPM I need to start. I messed up when I tried cranking it a few times after the doghead mod. then again after pulling plugs. So now I have to wait. Hopefully tonight ! I'm guessing it will hold its prime now.

 

[CamoCUCV]

After charging the batteries I realized I wasn't getting the RPM I needed from the starter. I know I overheated it a couple of times through this whole process, I think when the relay ran away with the starter it did it in. I could get ok turnover with the glowplugs out but soon as I put them in the starter just didn't have the power to do it. The starter was smoking hot and smoking for real smoking. I ordered a new one $209 ORileys its a Wilson. Read alittle about them seems to be a good company. 3 days out wait not in stock. IS Wilson good? They crossed it with the 10461453 ACDelco part # I found on another thread. It was a 10 tooth 24 Volt and on the correct side so I'm 99.9% sure its right but had a different part # Wil 91-01-4417

 

[CUCVLOVER]

I have a gear reduction starter from hillbilly wizard. It does a great job at cranking of that 6.2 even on the coldest West TN days.

Now if the truck still won't start after you get the new starter on and the batteries charged you can do what I've done a couple times in a pinch. Take about 8 oz of clean diesel and pour down each side of the intake in the banks. Just turn on the key and let the glow plugs shut off first and pour away. I had the same trouble once with mine. I had fuel at the injectors and everything but still would not start. Did that and she cranked right up. The fuel in the intake makes it run long enough most of the time to get everything moving and happy enough to run for the most part. Now is that the GM certificated OK with the warranty fix? Um I didn't ask. Take that ideo as you like I know a guy on here Cucvrus has sprayed many a 6.2 with starting fluid without issues so you might try that if you want that's on you.

 

[GunnyM1009]

I know a guy on here Cucvrus has sprayed many a 6.2 with starting fluid without issues so you might try that if you want that's on you.

I have done this a couple of times when my batteries were bad and all the juice i had was enough for a turn over or 3. When i did mine i sprayed the air filter as quick as i could hit the sprayer and let off. Do not flood these things with starting fluid. Best to not use it at all if you can help it but some times the situation calls for it.

 

[PJL]

My CUCV wouldn't start when I first got it. Sprayed it with a 1-2 burst of starting fluid and it lit right off. It had 6 bad glow plugs already. If it concerns you then disconnect them at the relay and try it.

 

[CamoCUCV]

Thanks for all the help! Finally got it started! I put the new starter on and the RPM was much better. It still wouldn't start so I pulled the glow plugs again and turned it over. It was dry again so I new right away I still had a fuel problem. I was still suspect of the electric lift pump the previous owner put on because it was loud and would change pitch. While I was removing it I discovered that the small pump filter the attaches to the inlet of the pump was loose. So when I tried to tighten it I discovered that it wasn't the threads that were loose it was the thread grommet that was spinning in the plastic housing. I think someone overtightened it, maybe because they didn't use thread sealer? What ever the case I replaced the pump and she fired up on the second crank.

NOW I have a whole lot stuff to research. No breaks and No power steering. Looks to me like the power steering pump powers the brakes? sounds kind of like a low tone bell sound coming from the power steering pump. Cant tell it may be the driver side alternator making the sound. Also My thermostat housing is cracked don't know if that's interchangeable with a civilian version 6.2 housing. The transmission didn't want to shift out of first. Not sure if it just needs to be driven a little I really couldn't go far because I have no breaks.

 

[CamoCUCV]

OK good news. power steering pump was bone dry and the sound was a loose bracket. I filled it and it all good now brakes and Power steering. But still don't shift out of first gear. And I don't believe nether alternator is working. I checked the voltage on the batteries with it running and one was at 10VDC the other 12VDC. I had the charger on the 12V one earlier today so it was stronger. Hopefully a fuse or something disconnected. I will look for the wiring diagram tonight.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[CamoCUCV]

Thanks for the help. It's running now

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Glad it's running.
You'll probably have to ad fluid a couple times to the power steering as the air works out. Does the trans have any fluid in it? Check the vacume lines also, for shifting issues.

 

[CamoCUCV]

Exactly what happen I had to add the power steering fluid three times. No weird sounds now end working good. I've been reading all the no shift threads and Vacuum system will be my first attempt tomorrow.

 

[PJL]

Great news!! Thanks for the update.