Manual CTIS Conversion for M-1078

[Suprman]

The ctis air lines maybe. But the lines shouldn't take in any water they should be well sealed to begin with. The older trucks water makes its way into lots of places. The lmtv appears to be better sealed. I would raise the exhaust up a bit if you are planning to go in deep water. Although the truck does appear to run with no problem when the exhaust is submerged. If the engine were to stop with the exhaust submerged you may have a problem. Water levels above the dash will cause electrical problems down the line.

 

[Pointman0853]

Today, I finished installation of my version of TJ's system. My CTIS had the 5 flashing lights and after screwing with it for weeks, I was just done. I like the manual system so much better, and it adds a bit of Steam Punk-ness to the interior. I used a glycerin filled air gauge and a filter on the exhaust port for a bit of bling..
Thanks for this TJ!

Pointman

 

[tjhuffy]

Nice touch on the exhaust filter Pointman, glad I was able to help you out. Now if I could just find the vibration in my driveline I would be very happy with my truck.

 

[coachgeo]

Nice touch on the exhaust filter Pointman, glad I was able to help you out. Now if I could just find the vibration in my driveline I would be very happy with my truck.

FIX THAT NOW!!!! till then drive it very little and NOT OVER 30mph. If the vibration is in the rear you'll easily destroy transfer case if you push it. Use the TM's to make sure all is to spec. in play etc. of the driveline.

 

[Pointman0853]

Nice touch on the exhaust filter Pointman, glad I was able to help you out. Now if I could just find the vibration in my driveline I would be very happy with my truck.

****.. That a drag. Mine has only 14,000 miles on it and I worry about that too.. Better go look up the driveline thread!

Pointman

 

[Lmtv772]

Nice touch on the exhaust filter Pointman, glad I was able to help you out. Now if I could just find the vibration in my driveline I would be very happy with my truck.

Did you have the balance on your driveshafts checked? I grease my driveshafts way too much, you can tell by the way the undercarriage of my truck looks, but I don't care.

 

[tjhuffy]

That is going to be my next step, no leaks on axles, yokes are tight no play, no metal in the diffs. didn't notice the vibration / noise until I repaired the fan clutch, that ran all the time. The truck only has 7,300 miles on. I'm very attentive to noise, vibration, rattles, etc. and want to do the repairs before something catastropic breaks. The problem is I don't have any idea what the norm is for these trucks. I suspect when new, they had a lot different characteristics than civilian trucks.

 

[coachgeo]

,,,, very attentive to noise, vibration, rattles, etc. and want to do the repairs before something catastropic breaks. The problem is I don't have any idea what the norm is for these trucks. I suspect when new, they had a lot different characteristics than civilian trucks.

YUP..... that not knowing what norm is ....... is what bit me in the ARSE

 

[Bobcat701]

That is a great idea. I am adding that to my to do list.

THanks

 

[ramdough]

I have completed the installation of my manual CTIS system. After several discussions with all of you I tried out different theories discussed and here are my results.
With regulator / tires set at 55 psi, air supply valve (ASV) open, dump valve (DV) closed; the tires didn’t start to deflate until the regulator was reduced to 41 psi.
I reduced the regulator to 20 psi and the tires deflated to the 20 psi, quick release valves (QRV) closed and tire psi was equal. I closed the ASV and opened the DV to release the air from the axles.
I did the same test from 55 psi to 30 psi and got the same results. I am very satisfied with the system, no electrical gremlins to deal with.
As to the water fording, my conclusion is the regulator should be set to the same psi as the tires, ASV open and DV closed to insure steady psi on the axle seals until you are out of the water. Lower psi than the tires could open the QRVs.
View attachment 616789View attachment 616790View attachment 616791View attachment 616792

So, is there any reason to use the dump valve unless you are changing pressures lower? Why not let your tires equalize at the desired pressure, but leave the regulated line regulated?


What if you have a slow tire leak? Wouldn't leaving the pressure in the line keep the system filling the tire that is leaking?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tjhuffy]

I would not want air pressure in the lines more than needed, I think it would cause the axle seals to ware out sooner. If you have a slow leak air it up each time before you drive it. Hope this helps.

tjhuffy

 

[TGUNN]

hey TJhuffy, thanx for your images but is there a way to describe what your second picture says on the labels you put on the image of the air lines shown above, their too small for me to read.

 

[1951M1078]

Thinking about doing this. What about the electric side ? What needs to be pulled and or removed ?

Great write up. Thanks.

 

[tjhuffy]

the air supply line is on the left, line to axles is on the right.

Hope this helps, tjhuffy.

 

[tjhuffy]

I removed the control box in the cab, valve behind the right kick panel and the wiring between both.

tjhuffy

 

[wandering neurons]

One question on your setup: after you pulled all of the parts and wiring, did you pull two hoses (supply pressure and pressure to tires) from right to left sides of the cab to connect into your new manual valve/gauge/regulator?

I removed the control box in the cab, valve behind the right kick panel and the wiring between both.

tjhuffy

 

[coachgeo]

One question on your setup....?

He's not on here too often. You might want to PM/email him asking to pop over to answer questions.

 

[tjhuffy]

In the attached pictures, behind the right passenger kick plate, the air line on the left with the white mark is the supply, it goes to the inlet side of the regulator. The line on the right side with the white mark is the supply line going to the axles. To air up the tires from 20 psi to 55 psi, you would close the supply valve and adjust the regulator to 55 psi, close the dump valve and open the supply valve once the desired pressure is reached close the supply valve and open the dump valve to bleed the air off for the axle seals. To set the air pressure from 55 psi to 20 PSI with the supply valve closed adjust a regulator to 20 PSI close the dump valve and open a supply valve. The air will start to exhaust from the quick release valves mounted on the frame under the truck once the air is exhausted and tires reach 20 PSI, closest supply valve and open the dump valve to bleed the air off the axle seals. I hope this helps.

 

[wandering neurons]

Thanks much, makes sense having to pass the lines from left to right. And much easier seeing with the markings.
I'm going to try a PCU sensor, and if that doesn't do it, pull the whole mess and go manual.
Though I'm thinking of modifying your setup with a single two-position lever valve. Will play and post...

In the attached pictures, behind the right passenger kick plate, the air line on the left with the white mark is the supply, it goes to the inlet side of the regulator. The line on the right side with the white mark is the supply line going to the axles. To air up the tires from 20 psi to 55 psi, you would close the supply valve and adjust the regulator to 55 psi, close the dump valve and open the supply valve once the desired pressure is reached close the supply valve and open the dump valve to bleed the air off for the axle seals. To set the air pressure from 55 psi to 20 PSI with the supply valve closed adjust a regulator to 20 PSI close the dump valve and open a supply valve. The air will start to exhaust from the quick release valves mounted on the frame under the truck once the air is exhausted and tires reach 20 PSI, closest supply valve and open the dump valve to bleed the air off the axle seals. I hope this helps.View attachment 719775View attachment 719776View attachment 719777

 

[coachgeo]

what type of plastic tube have you folk used to extend the OEM tube to a new valve? What is name of plumbing fittings needed for working with the plastic tube?