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Fuel leak woes

277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
The Busted Knuckle lives again.
I got the war department to start it while I stood on the passenger fender with my blocks of wood at the ready. She had to give it a little throttle but it fired up and ran like a champ.

The top of the ip is now dry as a bone.. no leaks there! Spotted a leak on injector 6, replaced the return line (the compression sleeve turned out to be jacked up)

I won't call it good until I can run it up to temperature for an hour or so. Looking promising though. Unfortunately I have to fix a wheel cylinder first now. No parts till Tuesday. :mad:

I bet I had the fuel cutoff assembly out half a dozen times double checking it was in there right. Paranoid I know.
 
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277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
So I went to change my leaking wheel cylinder yesterday after work, and couldn't find my Budd socket. Really want to use the truck this weekend, too!

So I've got another on order from Amazon and hopefully the local harbor freight has an impact set that has the right sockets in it. They show one on the website, I really hope it's in stock!

'Course the next thing will probably be "brake shoes are saturated" which I won't have in time, either.

When the War Department sees all the stuff from Amazon there are likely to be sanctions. Along with the Budd socket I ordered a torque multiplier and some other goodies.
 
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277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
Took a glance under the truck and the leak is not 100% gone.
Not near as bad as before though. Just REALLY slow seepage.

Looks like fittings or lines from the filters to the bottom of the ip. Maybe the short hose from the hard line coming from the primary. I can move the outer covering of that hose, pretty sure I shouldn't be able to. Those are next on my list.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I use air lines in high security door locks and had brass ferrules cutting into my nylon hoses. First a small leak and then bigger. I went to nylon ferrules and stopped the problem of the sharp edge cutting in.
 
277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
I use air lines in high security door locks and had brass ferrules cutting into my nylon hoses. First a small leak and then bigger. I went to nylon ferrules and stopped the problem of the sharp edge cutting in.
Do you use sleeves in your door air line hose? They are supposed to keep the ferrules from cutting the lines.
 
277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
What I thought was a wheel cylinder turned out to be an axle seal. Fixed that, cleared the vent hose that caused the problem, and went for an hour drive.

Fuel leak is hugely improved after hh seal replacement. Went from a drip every thirty seconds to a drip every four minutes.

Next step: new fuel line hose and fittings.

Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk
 

PropDr

Member
127
1
18
Location
Riverside Ca
I had the same exact failure.


I'm not sure if this is even related to the fuel leak that you described, but my nylon fuel lines running to/from the booster pump, to the secondary fuel filters, and then back to the injection pump rubbed together until one (or more) holes formed so I replaced the whole gaggle of fuel lines there. Three nylon and two rubber fuel return lines. The clear(ish) nylon lines were replaced with 3/8" air-brake line (it's the same type of hose, it's just black instead). Most of the fittings were reusable, though one on the nylon lines had a stripped end and I wasn't able to find an exact replacement so I replaced the 90 degree pipe fitting on the "in" of the first secondary fuel filter.

I covered where the hoses would again rub/vibrate against each other in rubber hose to hopefully delay another fuel leak.
View attachment 620104

What I did was document (via pictures!) and label where each hose ran as I took it off, then I took them all to a local industrial hose shop (Evco, House of Hose) and they sold me new ferrules and inserts and the hose. The larger rubber return lines were new reusable fittings as the crimp style are not reusable. I had to cut and make my new hoses from the lengths Evco sold me, but it was very easy.

You can see the shiny brass 90 degree angle on the "in" of my secondary fuel filters. I located that at a local Ace Hardware store (3/8" compression to 3/8" NPT) to replaced the stripped hex end that used to be there.
 
277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
After much degreasing and driving around, I've determined that the fuel leak is indeed gone.
What's seeping now is oil. Tonight I will replace the oil hoses that go to the IP (Thanks Gimp!)
Absolutely necessary now because I broke one trying to tighten it.

But I'm afraid that the oil is coming from behind the booster pump. I REALLY don't want it to be that, because I'm not looking forward to lifting the engine to get at the booster pump so I can replace that gasket.

I've got a Kubota L2501 with a loader - I think it's rated for around 1200 pounds at the edge of the bucket. I wonder if that'll handle lifting the engine up enough to clear the steering box?
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,368
3,378
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
Deuce engine is 1850 pounds w/o transmission and other parts. Can you pick one side up, possibly. But if it were me, the radiator would be out first, and maybe the fender, just for the extra room to work on things.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
But I'm afraid that the oil is coming from behind the booster pump. I REALLY don't want it to be that, because I'm not looking forward to lifting the engine to get at the booster pump so I can replace that gasket.

I've got a Kubota L2501 with a loader - I think it's rated for around 1200 pounds at the edge of the bucket. I wonder if that'll handle lifting the engine up enough to clear the steering box?
Just pull the IP. Don't do it this week, I'm leaving for Haspin, but if you call me, I'll walk you through it.
 
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