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PCB EESS Starting issue.

JoeydHMMWV

New member
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Location
Jackson, MI
My M998 came Thursday batteries were dead on the carrier we tried to jump it and we ended up using the Backhoe to pull it off the truck.
I put a set of CAT batteries in it and it started up ran fine shut down fine and have been playing with it all weekend no issues.
Today went to start it and the wait light stays on CONSTANT tried to crank and it will turn over but then will kick the starter off.

The "PCB EESS box is a KDS S3"

So my questions are....
Is the spare connector on the side of the S3 a standard CAN J1939?
Does anyone have the code chart for this box??
If it is not standard what are the pins to access the blink codes.

On a plus note whatever the PCB/EESS problem is I know I can override it when bypassing/hotwiring the fuel shut off (Starts right up)
PS it DID cycle the Glowplugs and the wait light was working for the last 3+ days until trying to start it tonight. Now it only presents with a Steady light and there is no current draw on the Glowplugs
.
 

63foxtrot

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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3
18
Location
los angeles, ca
Sounds like your positive battery terminal grounded it self against the battery box. You will need new PCB box, and glow plugs.
 

JoeydHMMWV

New member
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Location
Jackson, MI
Sounds like your positive battery terminal grounded it self against the battery box. You will need new PCB box, and glow plugs.
Yes it possible the battery grounded out as it was not bolted down.

On a "POSITIVE" note the glow plugs were removed and checked they are all good (the system is not cycling them) nor is it engaging the Fuel valve, or Cold Advance everything else lights ect are all working.

When the fuel valve is "Hotwired" it starts right up.


So I think I can agree it is the PCB!!
 

JoeydHMMWV

New member
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Location
Jackson, MI
How did u hotwire the fuel valve
REMOVE Wire 54A from the Fuel SOLENOID then connect the Fuel SOLENOID directly to the positive Battery terminal.

Rock and Roll!!!! (Hit Start)

Depending on how cold the motor is you may want to connect the advance solenoid (Wire will be marked 569) remove it and wire the ADVANCE solenoid to the battery also you will need to remove it once the engine warms up.

So....

I just got the price for a rebuilt S3 PCB and I'm sorry BUT NOT going to pay that!! LOL! I can gut the box and rebuild it with a couple starter relays and make it like the TM (But eliminate the GPC)

Going to put the Glow plugs on a push button. Problem solved price less than $50

I thought it would be nice to have the CANBUS feature but really military vehicles are about SIMPLICITY and I'm going OLD School!! :)

If anyone wants me to document this so they mod their crap S3 box let me know.
 

rookie

New member
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Location
portcharlotte fl
Yes that will be very helpful if u document it that will help me out when mine goes to crap and everybody else for that matter. Now do u leave the fuel solenoid hooked up to the battery after it starts ?
 

JoeydHMMWV

New member
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0
Location
Jackson, MI
Yes that will be very helpful if u document it that will help me out when mine goes to crap and everybody else for that matter. Now do u leave the fuel solenoid hooked up to the battery after it starts ?
The fuel solenoid stays to hot until you want to shutdown then disconnect.
 

JoeydHMMWV

New member
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0
Location
Jackson, MI
Put your shifter in NEUTRAL. Prolly just need a new box.
Oh yea!! This does bypass every safety in the book it starts the motor and does not care if the truck is in gear.

My rewire of the PCB (Ain't paying for a Rebuit or new one) will include the Neutral safety circuit but will bypass the glow plug circuit

Having had more than one diesel I think I can press for glow plugs when needed.
 

papakb

Well-known member
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1,185
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
The PCB does do a couple of other things than start the truck, for instance it stops the truck from starting if the batteries get connected backwards and it stops you from trying to start a truck that's already running.
 
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