Wrong radiator?

[glaser06]

While doing my turbo upgrade in my M1028, I noticed my radiator was loose on the passenger side. At first glance I thought the rubber spacer was missing so I ordered a new one from Chevy duty (or whatever they are now). Upon installing, I found out that the old one was there but it appears that my radiator is about 1" wider than the brackets. I checked the drivers side, it appears to be in the proper position.

Anybody have any idea what's going on here?

Rubber piece in correct position on radiator. Notice spacing between bolt holes of bracket (not centered).

Same thing but on drivers side where it lines up correctly.

Drivers side with bracket on (bolts removed but in proper location)

Is the CUCV supposed to have a special bracket on the passengers side? Maybe someone swapped out a radiator with a civi truck? I'm at a loss at the moment.

Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[cucvrus]

It appears you have a BIG block 454 radiator. But I looked at 2 just minutes ago and the tank ends finish between the center of the kept nuts in the core support. Does your radiator have the transmission cooling lines on the drivers side and the engine oil cooler lines on the passengers side?

 

[glaser06]

I believe so. I'm out of town at the moment but I do have lines running in each side.

Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[glaser06]

I'll get pics tomorrow. Anything besides the oil cooler lines help with ID?

Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[cucvrus]

When you get off the toilet. The measurements/width of the stock Harrison CUCV radiator is 34" inside tank to tank. I hope that helps. This was sent from the palace hotel workshop in my barn. @ CUCV's and a Cadillac present. All 3 in various states of disassembly. have a great day.

 

[glaser06]

When you get off the toilet. The measurements/width of the stock Harrison CUCV radiator is 34" inside tank to tank. I hope that helps. This was sent from the palace hotel workshop in my barn. @ CUCV's and a Cadillac present. All 3 in various states of disassembly. have a great day.

Having trouble with pics today. Oil lines are on drivers side, look stock (not hand bent anyways).

Measured is 34 7/8" best I can tell without removing the fan shroud. Would explain why my radiator cap has a homemade extension in it (when I get pics working I'll add them).

Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[glaser06]

Oil line on drivers side and extension to radiator overflow.


Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[glaser06]

Passenger side of radiator. And idea what the electrical dohicky is? I assume a temperature switch (for the idiot light). Upon closer inspection it definitely looks brazed in.

Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[cpf240]

In stock form, the sensor in the radiator is for the 'low coolant' light.

 

[glaser06]

In stock form, the sensor in the radiator is for the 'low coolant' light.

Is that the correct location for it?


Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[cpf240]

Is that the correct location for it?


Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

That looks to be about right, though it should be directly in the radiator, not sticking out like that one.

 

[cucvrus]

That is the way they are on replacement radiators. I have had to install 2-3 brass adapters to get the correct size for the sensor to fit. Most times just 1 adapter or the fitting is threaded. It all works out. I still like the GM replacement Harrison Plastic tank aluminum fin radiator the best.

 

[PJL]

How does that sensor work on a plastic tank? Does it seek ground through the coolant or the tank itself. Mine never worked even on the copper radiator when it was empty. The TM shows the sensor needs ground. So I'm guessing it needs a jumper to ground. Then figure out why the light never came on.

 

[cucvrus]

I don't know. But I think that the ground may be created when fluid no longer makes contact with the sensor. But I changed many of these radiators to the GM Harrison plastic ones over the years. The only thing that was different was the fan shroud needed some minor modifications at the oil cooler lines. I try not to think that deep into things. It was a genuine GM replacement and it fit nice and I liked it better cause lighter weight and easier to handle and work with. I feel a bit tougher myself. How would the stock radiator be grounded it was mounted in rubber? maybe the trans cooler lines. Not sure but they worked is my point.

 

[glaser06]

Easiest way for a low coolant switch is constant "on" with the coolant completing the circuit. Coolant drops below switch, presto, break in circuit, tells your light to come on.

If that's the case, the ground is only to prevent corrosion from a small electric current going through the coolant although this is unusual for radiators.
I could be way off point though.... I haven't read the TMs.


Edit: radiators aren't grounded for a reason (galvanic corrosion). Two dissimilar metals will corrode when in contact with each other (brass/copper and the steel of the truck) , especially if water is flowing through one creating an electric current (minute but there). That's why radiators have rubber mounts and rubber hoses (also good for vibration isolation, killed two birds one stone).
Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

 

[PJL]

That makes sense. There is a controller for the low coolant light circuit. It probably senses the ground through the coolant. I read up on a few troubleshooting tips. Might just be as simple as a bad bulb.

 

[cucvrus]

That makes sense. There is a controller for the low coolant light circuit. It probably senses the ground through the coolant. I read up on a few troubleshooting tips. Might just be as simple as a bad bulb.

Yea what he said and all that good stuff. That's right. I knew it was something like that. No space shuttle engineering involved.