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1952 ReoM35 gasser electrical question

Tilyn52

New member
19
0
0
Location
Minneapolis
I'm thinking I might. Pulled the gasser head, valve stuck and wouldn't free up. Bores look ok, might inframe it if I can get rings and rod bearings . Would a multifuel bolt in? Without major fabrication?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Multifuel will go right in with just a few motor mount changes and of course about 100 small things. Kenny, recovery4x4, has a great thread from years ago about pulling an OA331 and putting in a multifuel.

Having a complete multifuel power pack to start with would be nice but not necessary.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Does being in Minneapolis, having a cold climate much of the year, factor in to changing over to diesel? Doesn't gas start at very low temperatures? If your head and block are not cracked, you could probably do a full rebuild for what the diesel could cost.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,988
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Since I have 2 1952 and 1 1954 Studebaker REO's I can honestly say the multifuel is a much better engine. More power and torque and much easier keeping it running then constantly fiddling with carburetors and points and condensers. If I had the money it would be a great experiment to convert the REO to Electronic ignition and bore it out and put in a better cam and port and polish the heads and manifolds. Just to see how much performance you could get out of it. Of course for all that money just put in the Multifuel and be done with it. Just for full disclosure I stopped running the Studebakers after one threw a rod through the side of the block, one lost a rod bearing and the other lost compression. I've been scavenging parts off them for several years now. Needless to say I'm not a big fan of the gasser engines due to their many weakness's .
 

BFVSM91M

New member
17
0
1
Location
northern Minnesota
Good to see another Minnesota boy with an old gasser!! If you ever need parts or want to convert to multi, I know a guy in circle pines that has many many parts trucks. A couple gas but mostly Multifuel. I've dealt with him many times. He's reasonable, knowledgeable, and always willing to give good advice. If you would like to contact him private message me and I can get you in touch. And if you have any gasser pdfs lemme know, I've been looking myself! Good luck!
 

Tilyn52

New member
19
0
0
Location
Minneapolis
Ill send you a msg for the address. Thanks for the info on sources for parts. Between Memphis Equipment, White Owl, Sarafins, I think I have found the parts I need. Got the head in the machine shop and have dropped the pan and pulled Pistons and rods. Might do liners also. Just another day at work but I enjoy this more than working a new Cummins ISX any day. Thanks All
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
I've dropped my oil pan twice, I Highly recommend using a couple long studs to help ease the pan up, especially in frame, going over the front axle is a pain to get it all lined up right, and the little bolts are a pain to line up, especially if the gasket decided to slip. Although it sounds like you do a lot of engine work, so you probably have your own tricks too. I've never really had too much difficulty on in car pan swaps, but this truck whooped me trying to get it lined up and in.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
\ I think I have found the parts I need. Got the head in the machine shop and have dropped the pan and pulled Pistons and rods. Might do liners also.
I take it you're re-building. How did the pistons come out and were there any signs of head or block cracks? Are you magnfluxing the head? How far are you going? Cam out? Have you taken any measurements?

One thing I'd consider is the electronic conversion, to get rid of points.

Have fun!
 

Tilyn52

New member
19
0
0
Location
Minneapolis
Pistons came out easy. Heads in machine shop, getting it cleaned, checked for cracks, valve job and seals. Cleaned block, looks ok, going to Zyglo the deck. Cam staying I hope. Dial bore gauged cylinders, good. Crank journals checked with mic, good as far as taper or out of round. Just trying to get the spec on crank journal diameter. What Petronix would convert it? Any idea?
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Tilyn52;1896088 What Petronix would convert it? Any idea?[/QUOTE said:
Sorry, not without research. It's one thing I wished I had done when I did a similar rebuild on my F600 Ford. They say they are trouble free and much more reliable.

Looks like your making good progress. Hope your taking some pictures.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,988
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Pistons came out easy. Heads in machine shop, getting it cleaned, checked for cracks, valve job and seals. Cleaned block, looks ok, going to Zyglo the deck. Cam staying I hope. Dial bore gauged cylinders, good. Crank journals checked with mic, good as far as taper or out of round. Just trying to get the spec on crank journal diameter. What Petronix would convert it? Any idea?
Petronix makes a "Universal" installation for 6 or 8 cylinder engines. My buddy has used several of them in his Studebakers and Corvairs .
 
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