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Essential Tools to have for an FMTV? Add your .02

8mm deep well socket specifically to pull the grease zerks from the U-joints prior to removal. If you don't you'll break them off. NOTE: I used a 1/4" drive deep well socket which allowed sufficient access to the individual zerks. There is not much contact surface for the socket to grab on to, so if yours are tight don't strip them; mine pulled easily.
 
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Ukraine Train

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Regarding the driveshaft tool, can you not just pry the U-joint from the yoke after removing the caps? Why is the tool needed? I haven't looked at this very closely on my truck yet.
 

Suprman

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Not gonna happen. The u joint isn't coming out without damaging the yoke without a tool of some sort. Any damage to the yokes can cause catastrophic drivetrain failure down the line.
 

coachgeo

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Much thanx again to all that have responded. My original intent was more about tools specific to the LMTV but the list quickly started to include generic tools for rigs of this size as well. My bad for not being specific but hey...... might as well just let it run like it is. Its a great list. :driver:. If I've missed getting anything you posted about added to the ever-updating list in the first post let me know.

Still got some questions in yellow in the first post. Would be great to get input on those. Certainly hope this is helpful to folk. The specific stuff certainly is for me.
 
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coachgeo

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You brought up a good thought to explore. Here is some equivalent SAE's to use in a pinch for Metric and visa versa

Preferably use the correct size tool for the fastener. Higher chance of rounding off tight nuts with an equivalent SAE or Visa Versa. Different tool makers build to different tolerances and bolts at different grades allow for different tolerances as well. Thus YMMV on success with below equivalents. But lets be honest. With something as big as an MV one should have room to carry all you need. It's not like its a motorcycle.



  • 5/16"=8mm
  • 7/16"=11mm,
  • 1/2"=13mm,
  • 9/16"=14mm,
  • 5/8"=16mm,
  • 11/16"=17mm,
  • 3/4"=19mm,
  • 13/16" = 21mm
  • 7/8"=22mm,
  • 15/16"=24mm,
  • 1-1/16"=27mm,
  • 1 1/4=32mm
  • 1.5"=38mm
  • 1 13/16=46mm

Hint: small strip of lectric tape may bring a barely too large equivalent tool a little closer

PS- thanks to members of Adv Riders for info
 
Here's a neat trick that was sent to me by an active member on this site (used with his permission). If you need to remove and install those big heavy wheels you can easily do this by yourself with a couple of pipes that fit over the lug bolts. A picture is worth a thousand words here. Just put a couple appropriately sized pipes in the tool box and you'll have them if you need em, i.e., if you have a spare. Just make sure you line up the CTIS connector before you lift it into place.

IMG_2011.jpg
 
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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
Here's a neat trick that was sent to me by an active member on this site (used with his permission). If you need to remove and install those big heavy wheels you can easily do this by yourself with a couple of pipes that fit over the lug bolts. A picture is worth a thousand words here. Just put a couple appropriately sized pipes in the tool box and you'll have them if you need em, i.e., if you have a spare. Just make sure you line up the CTIS connector before you lift it into place.

View attachment 619816
When you get a chance..... shoot a vid of you using this. Would love to see it in action.
 

Lmtv772

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Location
Florida
Here's a neat trick that was sent to me by an active member on this site (used with his permission). If you need to remove and install those big heavy wheels you can easily do this by yourself with a couple of pipes that fit over the lug bolts. A picture is worth a thousand words here. Just put a couple appropriately sized pipes in the tool box and you'll have them if you need em, i.e., if you have a spare. Just make sure you line up the CTIS connector before you lift it into place.

View attachment 619816
Now that I know about this , I am sure I will never ever have to take off a wheel :)
I kid , I kid
 
Thanks everyone for your "thanks" regarding the tip for positioning the tire with the pipes. It actually works quite well and you can do it by yourself. Stick the pipes through the wheel holes and up and over the lug nuts and raise it up. What also works is a shovel, actually two work best because you have a little lateral control. However what I don't like about this method is that the tire can tip back on you if you're not careful or have a helper to steady it.
 

Oxyacetylene

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An assortment of standard blade-style automotive fuses might be worthwhile. They fit in the slots where the breakers go. For bad relays, you can swap a relay from a less-critical spot sometimes. I swapped my bad marker lamps relay for the blackout drive relay. Also one point of clarification on the lug nuts - they are 1.5" or 38mm and you can get a socket this size in 1" drive. I have also used a 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar. If you are going to purchase some 1" drive impact sockets, take a look at Harbor Freight. The metric set comes with a 38mm deep well for lug nuts. Sign up for their coupons and use a 20 or 25% off coupon to purchase. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-pc-1-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-67987.html
 
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Central california
Here's a neat trick that was sent to me by an active member on this site (used with his permission). If you need to remove and install those big heavy wheels you can easily do this by yourself with a couple of pipes that fit over the lug bolts. A picture is worth a thousand words here. Just put a couple appropriately sized pipes in the tool box and you'll have them if you need em, i.e., if you have a spare. Just make sure you line up the CTIS connector before you lift it into place.

View attachment 619816

Thanks for the tip on this. Very helpful. Because of your recommendation, I ordered some tubing and it works great.

Two each, McMaster Carr P/N 89955K899 (4130 Steel Tube, 1.000" OD, .120" Wall, 3' Long) works perfectly.

Thanks,
Michael
 

coachgeo

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These straps are rated at 44.5tons. Only drawback is that they were only 12ft long but for $90 they are pretty useful and strong..... video....
Thanks for the hint but does not help any without more information about the straps.

Side note-

Yesterday asked the moderator to unlock the first post so can update it with ya'lls great ideas. Not heard back yet. Wanted to add a recommendation for Torque Multiplication Lug Wrench only to discover am locked out of the post. Appears they auto lock post after a certain time period. :sad:
 
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