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You guys are all hot! I could work with you all.
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Electronic Parts Replacements Info for the MEP-802A
- Thread starter Daybreak
- Start date
kb3bf
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MG Guyfang,
it is an honor to be associated with you, Sir. The knowledge and experience you bring here is priceless.
Many of us would have been in "deep yogurt" had it not been for your experience and "this is what you need to do", the posting of the manuals, and explaining the NSN system. In 42 yrs in the Army I never got that ordering process right and relied on others to figure it out for me. I just assigned them the PRs and the funding, they worked out the POs, and by miracle the stuff showed up.
So how does that NSN system work? LOL i am senile and forgetful now.
kb3bf
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Kurt,
Took your advice and installed hose plus copper endcap. Hopefully this doesn't leak. Not sure what the hose's max temp is, but it is the only thing that I have that fits. Thanks for offering the info on how you did it.
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kb3bf
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Rebuilding the old S1 switches bought me a few months of reprieve, but now one of the S1s is starting to act up again.
When i go to the Start position, the MEP cranks over, then hesitates and shuts off.
If i play with the knob just right, it will start.
I replaced the old round plastic one with a (NOS) C57410 (it should be C57400, but it's all I could find).
I got it some time ago as a back-up S1 switch, but with this version i lose the Pre-heat function (which is not too difficult to overcome by adding a separate push button switch). For now this NOS switch works fine and i got till winter to either get the right version or add the pre-heat function.
I found the newer S1 replacements on ebay, but they are somewhat pricey especially if I get two of them, so I am hoping this square plastic version will last for a while, especially since i am not in a dusty environment. They are an order of magnitude less in cost and are still available on line. I just ordered a second one for the other MEP.
Like Guyfang says, get a replacement if you still have the old round plastic version. Also don't bother to rebuild them since they are not sealed and the plastic is of poor quality, besides they are a real PITA to reassemble.
When i go to the Start position, the MEP cranks over, then hesitates and shuts off.
If i play with the knob just right, it will start.
I replaced the old round plastic one with a (NOS) C57410 (it should be C57400, but it's all I could find).
I got it some time ago as a back-up S1 switch, but with this version i lose the Pre-heat function (which is not too difficult to overcome by adding a separate push button switch). For now this NOS switch works fine and i got till winter to either get the right version or add the pre-heat function.
I found the newer S1 replacements on ebay, but they are somewhat pricey especially if I get two of them, so I am hoping this square plastic version will last for a while, especially since i am not in a dusty environment. They are an order of magnitude less in cost and are still available on line. I just ordered a second one for the other MEP.
Like Guyfang says, get a replacement if you still have the old round plastic version. Also don't bother to rebuild them since they are not sealed and the plastic is of poor quality, besides they are a real PITA to reassemble.
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kb3bf
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I am now able to provide 5 KW of power to the house. Luckily I have NG for heating and cooking.
When the second MEP comes online it will provide air conditioning power if needed.
Enclosed is a sine wave image for one of the 120V lines under 4.8 KW load (the beauty of brushless contacts!).
While I did not plan to have two functional MEP-802A (since the second one was obtained for parts), here are my perceived Pros/Cons of having two 5KW units instead of a larger MEP like a MEP-803A.
The Pros:
Improved odds of having one generator working when need.
Better fuel economy when running smaller loads.
Troubleshooting by comparison (this has been a critical benefit).
Able to borrow certain parts when there is a failure or suspected one.
Easier to mitigate wet-stacking.
The cons:
Twice the maintenance requirements.
Extra space needed.
Two exhausts to deal with, 3 dB extra noise when both are on line.
Two installations, twice the wiring.
When the second MEP comes online it will provide air conditioning power if needed.
Enclosed is a sine wave image for one of the 120V lines under 4.8 KW load (the beauty of brushless contacts!).
While I did not plan to have two functional MEP-802A (since the second one was obtained for parts), here are my perceived Pros/Cons of having two 5KW units instead of a larger MEP like a MEP-803A.
The Pros:
Improved odds of having one generator working when need.
Better fuel economy when running smaller loads.
Troubleshooting by comparison (this has been a critical benefit).
Able to borrow certain parts when there is a failure or suspected one.
Easier to mitigate wet-stacking.
The cons:
Twice the maintenance requirements.
Extra space needed.
Two exhausts to deal with, 3 dB extra noise when both are on line.
Two installations, twice the wiring.
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Chainbreaker
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Zep has an aerosol for just about anything:
http://www.zep.lv/public/files/Aerosol Solution.pdf
Don't blame me if you find multiple aerosol Zep solutions you never knew you needed!
kb3bf
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I have been searching for an "ElectroSwitch" S1 replacements for months, all no avail.
However I just found a source of "ElectroSwitch" switches on ebay that are "somewhat" similar to S1, but they are NOT exact S1 replacements and require some mods.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electroswit...421281?hash=item281c1e0521:g:5hEAAOSwanRXg9qo
I am still trying to implement spring loading features for the "Pre-Heat" and "Start" positions, since these switches do not have it.
I am taking a closer look at the 45 degree indexing wafer to see if the internal springs can be re-arranged. For now with the present version, it's obvious the switch must NOT be left in the "Pre-Heat" and "Start" positions.
I can see why the "ElectroSwitch" switches are superior to the original "K-N" S1 used in the 1994 MEPs.
In the attached image, the switch with 4 wafers is 'as purchased', the other is the modified version.
I could have reduced it to 2 wafers, but a much shorter switch would have required resizing and threading the three bolts that hold the assembly together.
However I just found a source of "ElectroSwitch" switches on ebay that are "somewhat" similar to S1, but they are NOT exact S1 replacements and require some mods.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electroswit...421281?hash=item281c1e0521:g:5hEAAOSwanRXg9qo
I am still trying to implement spring loading features for the "Pre-Heat" and "Start" positions, since these switches do not have it.
I am taking a closer look at the 45 degree indexing wafer to see if the internal springs can be re-arranged. For now with the present version, it's obvious the switch must NOT be left in the "Pre-Heat" and "Start" positions.
I can see why the "ElectroSwitch" switches are superior to the original "K-N" S1 used in the 1994 MEPs.
In the attached image, the switch with 4 wafers is 'as purchased', the other is the modified version.
I could have reduced it to 2 wafers, but a much shorter switch would have required resizing and threading the three bolts that hold the assembly together.
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kb3bf
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I am also interested in building the remote wireless MEP starter following Kurt's awesome project.
While I am still assembling the parts, I took advantage while building some work related wifi antennas to also build and tune a Quadrifilar Helix antenna for 2.4 GHz shown on youtube. This allowed me to check and verify the dimensions reported:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agZOr4T8I3w
The antenna is easy to build but checking its resonance properties requires some costly test equipment. If you follow the dimensions reported, the antenna will be very close to 2.4 GHz. It also depends on what surrounds it, but the indoor antenna can be hidden in walls or between rafters (at least several inches away from metal wiring, pipes or foil). The advantage of a QH antenna is that it is quasi isotropic, tolerant to polarization miss-match, and does not require a ground plane like 1/4 wave monopoles do.
The measurement indicates that besides resonating at 2.4 GHz, almost no energy is sent back to the source (it is radiated).
I did not have the opportunity to do radiation patterns, but this youtube antenna is a winner for this MEP project.
I prefer the QH antenna over the monopole types that are included with some of the wifi transceivers.
While I am still assembling the parts, I took advantage while building some work related wifi antennas to also build and tune a Quadrifilar Helix antenna for 2.4 GHz shown on youtube. This allowed me to check and verify the dimensions reported:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agZOr4T8I3w
The antenna is easy to build but checking its resonance properties requires some costly test equipment. If you follow the dimensions reported, the antenna will be very close to 2.4 GHz. It also depends on what surrounds it, but the indoor antenna can be hidden in walls or between rafters (at least several inches away from metal wiring, pipes or foil). The advantage of a QH antenna is that it is quasi isotropic, tolerant to polarization miss-match, and does not require a ground plane like 1/4 wave monopoles do.
The measurement indicates that besides resonating at 2.4 GHz, almost no energy is sent back to the source (it is radiated).
I did not have the opportunity to do radiation patterns, but this youtube antenna is a winner for this MEP project.
I prefer the QH antenna over the monopole types that are included with some of the wifi transceivers.
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- 16,755
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This thing looks surprisingly like the device I use to make and stir my Mash, for the home brew I produce. Wonder of wonders, I understood most of what you just wrote. Thanks to all the ARRL study guides I read and sludged through, it was not quite greek. Been at least 30 years if not longer.
kb3bf
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LOL.
We too have relied on ARRL pubs and my favorite one is the ARRL Antenna Handbook.
Over the years I can attest the antennas listed in the handbook do work as stated, but many times I thought I could do a better job in designing newer and improved versions, which only led to new source material for my yet to be published "Handbook of Failed Antennas"
)
We too have relied on ARRL pubs and my favorite one is the ARRL Antenna Handbook.
Over the years I can attest the antennas listed in the handbook do work as stated, but many times I thought I could do a better job in designing newer and improved versions, which only led to new source material for my yet to be published "Handbook of Failed Antennas"
)
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Yep, got at least two copies of the Antenna Handbook STILL in the attic. Should be from the early 70's. If and when my youngest at LAST gets his crap out of the attic, I may start to look at MY crap. Boy will there be some surprises!!
kb3bf
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Guy,
What would cause the overload light to come on, even with no load applied? It is very faint.
In the daytime while outside in full sun light, it is difficult to see it lit and I never noticed it before, but I found out for first time at dusk a few nights ago.
I don't know how long it has been on.
I think the overload module may have suffered water damage in the past, and that may be the cause. When I picked up the (second) MEP there was about 1" of water in the front compartment (the front top panel was missing). Water reached the base of the relays. Since then I drilled holes to prevent that from happening again.
I did not open any of the base mounted modules yet since they are riveted, but I will have to to find out by also swapping modules and checking them.
What would cause the overload light to come on, even with no load applied? It is very faint.
In the daytime while outside in full sun light, it is difficult to see it lit and I never noticed it before, but I found out for first time at dusk a few nights ago.
I don't know how long it has been on.
I think the overload module may have suffered water damage in the past, and that may be the cause. When I picked up the (second) MEP there was about 1" of water in the front compartment (the front top panel was missing). Water reached the base of the relays. Since then I drilled holes to prevent that from happening again.
I did not open any of the base mounted modules yet since they are riveted, but I will have to to find out by also swapping modules and checking them.
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Greetings!
The fault indicator module itself could be bad, or have a problem. Do you have another one to swap it out and see what happens? Also check K-8. See if its in its socket right, and see if the contacts are open or closed during operation.
Take care!
Guy
The fault indicator module itself could be bad, or have a problem. Do you have another one to swap it out and see what happens? Also check K-8. See if its in its socket right, and see if the contacts are open or closed during operation.
Take care!
Guy
kb3bf
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Thanks Guy! I'll swap the module while checking K8 and see what happens and let you know.
87Nassaublue
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Oh well, it was worth a try. I think I'd do the same as you and try to adapt something else in it's place.
kb3bf
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Hi 87 Nassaublu,
I was able to restore K1 afterall, but by mistake I posted the results in the wrong thread by mistake. Thread: Wireless AutoStart with Remote Parameter Monitoring. See page three.
I already used the stuff for K2, and may need more for some of the electronic modules as I am finding out that water damage was pretty wide spread; but the MEP is still working (as long as I am able to keep fixing it). I am just happy the motor and the gen are fine.
Many thanks again for your advice and suggestions.
I was able to restore K1 afterall, but by mistake I posted the results in the wrong thread by mistake. Thread: Wireless AutoStart with Remote Parameter Monitoring. See page three.
I already used the stuff for K2, and may need more for some of the electronic modules as I am finding out that water damage was pretty wide spread; but the MEP is still working (as long as I am able to keep fixing it). I am just happy the motor and the gen are fine.
Many thanks again for your advice and suggestions.
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Talk to Daybreak. He has stuff squirreled away!
Abernathy Fire Department
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Looking for a Master Switch for an MEP-802A. Part number I think is 88-21160. Our fire department has a generator that will run and everything seems to work properly except that it doesn't generate voltage. You can hold the starter switch/master switch in the start position, but when you release it to "run" position, it doesn't generate. We've been told it possibly is the switch. Anyone have any other ideas?
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When you hold the start switch, (S-1) in the run position, do the volt and hertz meter come up? Do you have 24 volts on pin 7 of the S-1 when you hold the S-1 in the start position? We need a bit more info.
How far is Abernathy from Wills Point?
How far is Abernathy from Wills Point?
Thumpin
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I am new to the forum and also new to the MEP802A, I just bought one and I am working to get it running. It needed a fuel tank clean, new fuel lever sender, new well plugs installed, new fuel gauge, new fuel bypass line.
While replacing some missing cabinet screws I screwed up and shorted my wrench out against what I believe was the V5 varistor (although it could have been the resistor above it). I replaced the V5 with a new replacement - but I still am not sure things have been repaired properly. If I test for voltage on one side of the V5 I get 24 volts - I get 0 volts when I test on the side nearest the cabinet edge.
I have no idea if this is proper or not? And although the generator runs and makes power at the 110V outlet - I have not yet hooked up the 110/220V outlet to see if it is making power (the voltage switch does show 110/220V being made between the terminals when the switch is moved).
Thanks in advance for your help....and I realize I should have disconnected the battery terminals prior to sticking a metal wrench inside the cabinet.
Dave
While replacing some missing cabinet screws I screwed up and shorted my wrench out against what I believe was the V5 varistor (although it could have been the resistor above it). I replaced the V5 with a new replacement - but I still am not sure things have been repaired properly. If I test for voltage on one side of the V5 I get 24 volts - I get 0 volts when I test on the side nearest the cabinet edge.
I have no idea if this is proper or not? And although the generator runs and makes power at the 110V outlet - I have not yet hooked up the 110/220V outlet to see if it is making power (the voltage switch does show 110/220V being made between the terminals when the switch is moved).
Thanks in advance for your help....and I realize I should have disconnected the battery terminals prior to sticking a metal wrench inside the cabinet.
Dave