New shop van owner

[backwoodsman1]

Howdy from the MS gulf coast, I would like to give some background first, (moderators please forgive, steep learning curve for me). Raised by grandparents, started bringing fish and red meat to the table at age 6. (grandfather taught me). Been around gas, butane, propane and diesel engines from an early age. Much experience either forgotten or dormant. I recently purchased a 65 model M109A3, cheap. Drove it home. Brakes quit about a half mile from home. (Butt puckered up). Made home safely. As to the previous owners honesty I will not comment. Parked it. Next day it would not crank. Battery terminals corroded so that you could not see the terminals. So new cable ends and another set of batteries. Now I have to listen hard to hear the starter engage before it is running. Engine, transmission and axles all good. I now have to rebuild the brake system from the air compressor to the wheel cylinders. Will replace probably more air, fuel and hydraulic lines than I need to. I am capable. Thanks for listening. 73 Mark W5MDX 1965 Kaiser Jeep M109A3 wo/w that whistles 1993 AT&T 3/4 ton tool truck (w/tools) Engines run on fuel(s). Motors run on smoke.

 

[pjwest03]

Welcome to the party.

Part numbers for many things. Good info thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?82427-Deuce-Parts-Quick-Reference-Spreadsheet/page9

Good airline info.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?155917-Replacing-copper-lines-with-DOT-poly-air-hose

 

[Tracer]

Welcome aboard from Nevada.

 

[Gralmk]

Welcome from MA.

 

[Flyingvan911]

Welcome from Kansas City, MO. I also had trouble with my battery terminals melting. I switched to Interstate MHD31 batteries with the screw posts. They work great. I'd check out the whole brake system to make sure everything is working well.

 

[m109a2]

Welcome to the site from Lake Charles La.A lot of good info,great people and good fun.Al

 

[Lust4GreenSteel]

Welcome from Kansas City. Lots of great folks and good info here. Jump right in.

 

[backwoodsman1]

Lord help me if I have to buy all new brake shoes! Its going to be enough already when I buy the 8 80% percent tread tires I need, not to mention the tubes and liners. Thanks for the greetings yall. 73 from me , W5MDX. ps, did,nt realize there were ham ops here. Bye for now.

 

[theeDIZ]

Welcome from MD.

 

[porkysplace]

Welcome to SS. Your going to need to download and save the TM's to your computer , you will be needing them.
Link to TM's :
[h=1]TM's for the Deuce[/h]You will also want to read this thread and build a power bleeder.
[h=1]Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style[/h]

 

[General Hood]

Welcome from OK

 

[ageregunner]

Welcome from PA.

 

[backwoodsman1]

General Hood "5 second fuses only last 3 seconds" is so true and yet hilarious. Porckysplace, I have a two terabyte hard drive and someone to show me how to copy what I need to. It,s just gonna take time for me. .....Thanks.

 

[simp5782]

Give me a call tonight or tomorrow. Ill be headed to Hattiesburg in the morning. Might could creep down your way in the afternoon and give u a hand

901 318 8353. Wes

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

 

[backwoodsman1]

Thanks to all for laying out the welcome mat, for the advice, and especially the two way w/simp5782.

 

[Valence]

Lord help me if I have to buy all new brake shoes! Its going to be enough already when I buy the 8 80% percent tread tires I need, not to mention the tubes and liners. Thanks for the greetings yall. 73 from me , W5MDX. ps, did,nt realize there were ham ops here. Bye for now.

Hello and welcome from northern Utah! Everyone loves shop vans

My gut feeling would be it's unlikely that you'll need new brake shoes (but one never knows on old beasts). In my opinion, here's a list of things to do/replace/rebuild/upgrade etc to ensure you have quality brakes, since the truck you have is a single circuit brake system:

• Install a "remote brake fluid reservoir". Lots of links here:
  • http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ke-reservoir&p=1671650&viewfull=1#post1671650
• Rebuild all 6 wheel cylinders. If they're too rusty to hone out, replace. You'll want the rebuild kits with the springs with "cup expander" ends. They are purchasable at NAPA, NAPA Part Number 45, Line Item "UP" (or just "UP 45") See:
  • http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...on-the-Deuce&p=1688001&viewfull=1#post1688001
• Replace brake shoes as necessary (and/or brake shoe return springs too if they look rusty, mine certainly were just fine, as far as I could tell)
• Adjust all brakes and brake pedal linkage as necessary
• Replace brake pedal return spring
• Replace all 5 flexible brake lines. See Peashooter's excellent reference guide (it's a shame he doesn't sell them any more)
  • http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...LINE-REFERENCE-GUIDE-(Sizes-lengths-fittings)
• Rebuild/replace air pack. Rebuild is cheapest (~$80) but if you're like me you'll not only spend the money to rebuild, have it fail, and then just buy a new "short style" air pack to replace it.
  • Upgrade to the air brake light switch if yours hasn't already been upgraded. See:
  • http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...brake-switch&p=1881770&viewfull=1#post1881770
• Rebuild/replace master cylinder
• Replace all hard lines

I've done all of the above, except the very last bullet point... minus a couple leaky hard lines.... Expensive, a lot of work, but probably the best investment on the truck.

 

[backwoodsman1]

Thanks Valence for the reply. Will come back to your reply probably a number of times before this is over. Was just going to lay my head down and my phone beeped. As you know I am new at this and all advice is sincerely appreciated. (I need a new oil sending unit too!).

 

[Valence]

No problem! Nothing wrong with being new. Our hobby wouldn't survive without new interest!

Well, here's some useful vendors I recommend. You can price match and take shipping into consideration (all this information is out there and easily found, but I thought I'd put it here to give you a boost as you come to speed)

http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/
http://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/
http://www.realcustomtrucks.com/


And some of the big box vendors if they're closer or more convenient for you: (not a comprehensive list!)
http://www.memphisequipment.com/
http://www.boyceequipment.com/
http://www.tnjmurray.com/militaryvehicles/index.cfm
https://www.easternsurplus.net/
http://ccsurplus.com/
http://www.kublossurplus.com/
http://idahomotorpool.com/
http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-vehicle-parts/2-1-2-ton-parts.html
http://www.oshkoshequipment.com/browse/list/4/141

 

[backwoodsman1]

Besides what valance and simp5782 and the rest of you try to try to help me with, I actually enjoy simply reading on the site. I gotta buy a oil pressure sending unit at the minimum and while I,m goin about it I,m thinking about a new oil pump. Comments?

 

[Valence]

Besides what valance and simp5782 and the rest of you try to try to help me with, I actually enjoy simply reading on the site. I gotta buy a oil pressure sending unit at the minimum and while I,m goin about it I,m thinking about a new oil pump. Comments?

I've certainly never messed with the oil pump, but I'm probably lesser mechanically inclined of the folks around here. Personally, I wouldn't dream of dropping the oil pan and messing with the oil pump unless I thought/knew it was having issues. I regret I didn't check my oil for metal parts on all my previous oil changes though.