Quieter, Better MPG 6.2 Diesel.

[marand9199]

It's been a long time but I'm back.

Queiter, Better MPG Diesel.

I’ve got a M1009 I’ve had for about 6 years now. Ever since I bought it the lifters have made this terrible metallic chatter especially when the motor was cold and even when it was at op temp but, not as bad when warm. Everyone told me this was normal for diesels but it still bothered the **** out of me. It sounded like my motor was coming apart especially at higher speeds. I also have heard here on SS that people were getting 20 MPG with their M1009’s. My best in the summer was 15 MPG and I was getting 12 or 13 in the winter.


I stumbled across this guy at a gun show a few years back who was selling this Nano Diamond Lude he had formulated and claimed it would make your semi auto firearms run much smoother with less wear and that is was permeant treatment with no more need to lube your firearms. It wasn’t cheap, $40.00 for a 5ml bottle but, he claimed it would lube 100 hand guns. It just takes a very small mount on all metal contact points, so he said. I was skeptical but I tried it anyway. The stuff works great and I found out it also has a mil spec and approved for use by the military.


Still with me? Ok. Next time is saw him I mentioned how much I love his produced called Diamond Lube. (Look it up on Youtube and you’ll see a bunch of videos on it.) He asked me what type of vehicle I drove so I told him. He guaranteed me I could make my 6.2 run quieter and improve the gas mileage by 16%. Now he had my attention. I said, “how much is this going to cost me?” His reply, “One 14ml bottle was $400.00 and for large motors like the 6.2, it would take 3 treatments. That’s $1,200.00 bucks. Ouch! After talking to him for awhile he gave a bottle for half price to test. What the ****, I bought it and put it into my engine oil. With in 2 minuets from a cold start the lifter chatter was gone and the whole motor seemed to run a little quieter. I drove it for a week and was very impressed. After 8 or 9 days the chatter noise started to come back. I went to see him again to let him know what happened and he said it will take 2 more treatments to make it permeant. He explained way but I won’t get into all the details. I bitched and moaned about the price of two more bottles so he gave them to me for the same price of the first bottle. $200.00 for both of them.


So now fast forward 11 months to the present time. My 6.2 is still running quieter and my gas mileage is now 16 to 17 MPG. (Better on the highway) Not great but diffidently an improvment. My motor before the treament always had a sweat spot on the highway at about 62 to 65 mph. That’s when things just seemed to run smoother but still loud. That sweat spot is now at 50 to 55 and up. It now hummmmms instead of chattering. The motor also is much more responsive when I accelerate. All this is because the Diamond Lube puts a permenat barrier between the metal to metal contacts and reduces friction. I also put a cap full in my gas tank to lube the IP. Oh ya, cranking from a cold start is now much easier and faster now in the winter. Fires right up. Less wear on the starter also. There is a lot of other things I want to lube when I get around to it like, wheel bearings, alternators bushings, drive shafts, rearend, starter motor, trans and transfer case, front end bushings you name it.


Bottom line. My M1009 is still running strong and quieter and I love driving it now. (without ear plugs) It’s still loud but, not like it was.
If you Google this and find his website you can sign up for his emails and he often has 1/2 price sales which he will email you about.


For what it's worth, I know this stuff ain’t cheap but it was worth it for me. You will have to make your own choices. Eventually I will be doing my Merc & my Harley. (Motor cycles only take one bottle)


I have no affiliation with this guy at all except to say he has a lot of my money. Just thought I would pass this along. Hope I’m not breaking any rules here. Let me know if I am.


Six two & even, over & out.

 

[Gripy]

"He explained way but I won’t get into all the details."

No, please do explain all of the details. Because this smells like snake oil. I don't think a $1,200 oil treatment is worth a 1 mpg increase. Where a 1 mpg difference could be as much as just driving a little bit differently.

 

[german m1008]

When the additive $ 1200 is worth, why he sells it for half?
For $ 1,200, I would buy another engine........

 

[fitz]

I'm curious about the price.
If a 5 ml bottle cost $40, how does a 14 ml bottle cost $400? Something doesn't sound right.

 

[Tinstar]

If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is.

Its a diesel. Their loud.
Its a fact some CUCVs are louder than others.

Two cycle oil in the fuel made mine a lot less noisy.
Also getting 20mpg.

You can almost buy a whole truck for that price.

I'll pass

 

[Dark Night]

To clarify, the Diamond Lube website shows that the 14ml bottle is only $100, not $400. But the 14ml bottle isn't what is used for an 8 cylinder engine. That would cost $800 for the vehicle engine treatments. Still, quite a lot... Nano-technology has proven results... but it's not for the weak of wallet, that's for sure.

Google is your friend.

 

[Drock]

Oil additives are the oldest trick in the book. I've read up on these from time to time and the story always ends the same (SCAM). From the fake lubricity testing machines, to the drop of oil penetrating a block of cast iron "NO DUH" cast iron is porous. No auto manufacturer recommends using oil additives, some even warn against it. Change your oil when your supposed to and the thing will run forever. As a kid I worked at a Jiffy lube doing 30+ oil changes a day. We averaged 1 car per day with (NO OIL IN IT!). Engines are much more robust then we tend to give them credit for. All these oil additives are simply a large dose of 1 or 2 ingredients that already exists in your motor oil. Usually Teflon and some detergent in a carrier oil, like mineral oil. The reason they work good at first and then die off is because they break down quickly without being backed up or protected buy other ingredients like they are in your normal motor oil. The only 2 additives that I've seen that do what they claim and therefore have bin on the market forever are (STP)&(Marvel Mystery Oil).. STP is simply a friction modifier & thickener, and MMO is simply a cleaner packed with detergents.

 

[Tinstar]

Oil additives are the oldest trick in the book. I've read up on these from time to time and the story always ends the same (SCAM). From the fake lubricity testing machines, to the drop of oil penetrating a block of cast iron "NO DUH" cast iron is porous. No auto manufacturer recommends using oil additives, some even warn against it. Change your oil when your supposed to and the thing will run forever. As a kid I worked at a Jiffy lube doing 30+ oil changes a day. We averaged 1 car per day with (NO OIL IN IT!). Engines are much more robust then we tend to give them credit for. All these oil additives are simply a large dose of 1 or 2 ingredients that already exists in your motor oil. Usually Teflon and some detergent in a carrier oil, like mineral oil. The reason they work good at first and then die off is because they break down quickly without being backed up or protected buy other ingredients like they are in your normal motor oil. The only 2 additives that I've seen that do what they claim and therefore have bin on the market forever are (STP)&(Marvel Mystery Oil).. STP is simply a friction modifier & thickener, and MMO is simply a cleaner packed with detergents.

Well said..

I do use STP.
Always have.....Always will

390,000 so far on my 06 LBZ duramax.
Close to 89k total on my M1008. 7k since I bought it from GP.
They both run like a top and sound great. Not too loud.
Still getting 25mpg on duramax.

Im a firm believer in changeing the oil when required and I check it at every fill up.
Have used Mobil1 for everything from the beginning.

Use quality oil and change it when your supposed to.

 

[SCSG-G4]

It's not a diesel, and it's not an MV, but my Corolla gets an oil change every 5000 miles. Next month it will be the 410,000 mile oil change. I can still accelerate uphill here in SC, but not in West Virginia with the A/C running. YMMV.

 

[marand9199]

Gripy, It's been a while since I've been on the web site and it looks like he has made some changes. Like I said I treated mine engine last year. The reason for multiple treatments was as follows.

Your engine has microscopic galling on metal to metal contact points. (engine wear if you will) This is why you use a magnet on your oil drain plug to pick up these particals. The diamond lube adheres to the metal surfaces only by contact of the two metals at the high points. The more the contact the more the lube penetrates and treats the surfaces. The high points get treated first from contact then with follow treatment they wear down a little to treat newer contact points. Not sure if I explained it correctly but that's how I understood his explanation. All I know is, it works and works great on my motor and my firearms. He claims the military tested it on a completely dry belt feed M60 treated with Diamond Lube. 60,000 rounds with zero malfunctions and no signs of excessive wear. They even gave it it's own Milspec number. It also reduces heat in the engine compartment which is nice if your in a hot climate, not so good for the cold climates. But less heat means less wear and tear on your motor. I know there are skeptics out there and I don't blame them which is why I waited a year to post this. I wanted to make sure it works as advertised. It does!

 

[marand9199]

german m1008

I may not have the details correct on pricing. Looking at his website again I see he has made changes since I purchased last year. The different
bottles have different concentrations of Spherical Nanodiamond lube, hence the different prices. You'll have to check his website and read the descriptions on each.

 

[marand9199]

Drock

I agree with you but, you have to keep adding them when you change your fluids. One year latter and I can tell you mine 6.2 has never run better. Take it for what it's worth. I love my CUCV now more then ever. I will keep everybody posted if anything changes.

 

[reaper556]

These threads are always good for the lulz. If your using good oil and changing it there is no need for added snake oil and secret potions. STP? good if you have a leaker and oil burner other wise your just pissing in the wind.

 

[2deuce]

There was a guy out here years ago that sold something called CE-10. He had a demo he would show you of running regular oil, and running regular oil mixed with a few drops of CE-10. He had a lever that he would add weight to, that put pressure on metal to metal contact. With very little weight regular oil would fail, but he could add all the weights he had to the additive oil and it never did fail. He said there was a metal bond with his product. He also did a demo with his car where he removed the additive oil and filled his crankcase with with water. He intended to run across country like this but only got 500 miles, because he had so much trouble finding the water mark on the dip stick and he ran low on water and overheated. I tried it and I thought it worked too. The steel mill I worked at tried it in some gear boxes and they got very high extended life out of them. They still considered it snake oil and would not buy the product, instead thinking it was just coincidence they lasted so long. The guy was an old man when I knew him back in the 70's, I'm sure he is not around today. He told me that he was stopped from marketing his product by major oil companies, when he would not sell his formula to them. In recent years I have seen marketing by major brands that claim some of the properties CE-10 delivered. I remember it was a clear liquid that had an amber look and had a smell that I found familiar, but couldn't identify. It was about $40 a gallon, but that was a lot back then.

 

[Drock]

There was a guy out here years ago that sold something called CE-10. He had a demo he would show you of running regular oil, and running regular oil mixed with a few drops of CE-10. He had a lever that he would add weight to, that put pressure on metal to metal contact. With very little weight regular oil would fail, but he could add all the weights he had to the additive oil and it never did fail. He said there was a metal bond with his product. He also did a demo with his car where he removed the additive oil and filled his crankcase with with water. He intended to run across country like this but only got 500 miles, because he had so much trouble finding the water mark on the dip stick and he ran low on water and overheated. I tried it and I thought it worked too. The steel mill I worked at tried it in some gear boxes and they got very high extended life out of them. They still considered it snake oil and would not buy the product, instead thinking it was just coincidence they lasted so long. The guy was an old man when I knew him back in the 70's, I'm sure he is not around today. He told me that he was stopped from marketing his product by major oil companies, when he would not sell his formula to them. In recent years I have seen marketing by major brands that claim some of the properties CE-10 delivered. I remember it was a clear liquid that had an amber look and had a smell that I found familiar, but couldn't identify. It was about $40 a gallon, but that was a lot back then.

Yeah the machine your talking about is what I mentioned earlier. It's called a "Lubricity tester" and is a scam in it's self. Here's a video explaining it....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne7ayhPVVYY

 

[2deuce]

I see where I could be easily fooled either way from the test and by this video. This is an anti additive video. Very likely if I believe either, I have been scammed. Thanks for the eye opener. From now on I'm only going to believe the pretty girl with next to nothing on when she tells me what to buy, not some guy in a white suit.

 

[Mainsail]

What's the NSN?

If I had a nickel for every product that claimed it was used by the military, special ops, SEALs, astrosoldiers, etc., I could probably afford to participate in those scams.

 

[NVRENUFF]

Not all oils are created the same. I used to use royal purple, but they changed their formula to match emissions. Going from plain Rotella to RP we were able to extend bottom end overhauls on out drilling rigs Detroit 149's from 8,000hrs to 25,000hrs. That's a huge increase and wear reduction. Around 2010 it changed formula and we were overhauling at 17,000hrs. I no longer use RP, I've switched to either Mobile1 Extended Performance or Amsoil XP. Both are about the same quality and price. This additive stuff sounds like ZMax and the other similar stuff. From an industrial background where time is money, I don't believe this stuff is the miricale it claims to be. If it was, every drilling and long haul company would use it. I'm an electrical engineer, not a chemist. I'd still be willing to bet a couple flushes with seafoam followed by a good oil like amsoil would give you the same or similar results.

Everything has has to have a beginning though, I'll read up and research this stuff. If it is what it claims, it'll soon be everywhere and sell out to a large oil company.

 

[rustystud]

I just use a good quality synthetic oil and a "ZDDP" additive for my non-roller cam engines. All the other stuff has proven to be useless. There was one product I fell for in the late 1970's that had Teflon in it. It worked great for awhile until the Teflon wore off and blocked the oil passages in the block ! Just use a good oil and change it regularly. That's the "secret" to a long lasting engine !

 

[rustystud]

Not all oils are created the same. I used to use royal purple, but they changed their formula to match emissions. Going from plain Rotella to RP we were able to extend bottom end overhauls on out drilling rigs Detroit 149's from 8,000hrs to 25,000hrs. That's a huge increase and wear reduction. Around 2010 it changed formula and we were overhauling at 17,000hrs. I no longer use RP, I've switched to either Mobile1 Extended Performance or Amsoil XP. Both are about the same quality and price. This additive stuff sounds like ZMax and the other similar stuff. From an industrial background where time is money, I don't believe this stuff is the miricale it claims to be. If it was, every drilling and long haul company would use it. I'm an electrical engineer, not a chemist. I'd still be willing to bet a couple flushes with seafoam followed by a good oil like amsoil would give you the same or similar results.

Everything has has to have a beginning though, I'll read up and research this stuff. If it is what it claims, it'll soon be everywhere and sell out to a large oil company.

Seafoam is not he best product either. Just because NAPA sells it does not make it good. Look it up on the web. There are plenty of studies that show who has the best fuel additive for diesels.
I use "Opti-Lube XPD" . It was the best product for cleaning next to straight "Bio-diesel" without the side effects of Bio-diesel. Also don't forget to use a good anti-algae agent like
"Bio-Bor" .