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Thoughts on this M1028A2

11Echo

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My truck is a 1984 M1028 that I have removed the 6.2 engine and replaced it with a 383 Hi-Torque. It came "stock" with the NP205 transfer-case and a TH400 transmission and a Dana 70HD dually.

The quote below was in reference to his 1977 civilian model mention by TGP(IL).
1980 was the first year the 205 gearbox was standard in all 30 series square body four wheel drives regardless of transmission option.

"If your 1977 has a 205 transfer case it would have been a manual transmission when new, or the original 203 was replaced with the 205 if it had an automatic."
 
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rustystud

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Hey Rusty
They all have Dana 70HD rears and 205 T-case.
The black 77 was bought new. First year for the K30
The blue 84 was bought new.
The OD 86 was converted in 91 at/by TEAD and has all the exact components
As the two factory models with the exception of they added rear sway bar.
No K30 left GM with a sway bar from the factory in dual wheels. I tried to order it in
Both 77 and 84.
Tom
I was looking in my 1984 Shop Manual and the P30 and C30 both came with anti-sway bars as an option. It would be really easy to convert a K30 to run a anti-sway bar if you got the brackets.

View attachment Scan0149.pdfView attachment Scan0150.pdfView attachment Scan0151.pdfView attachment Scan0152.pdf
 

TGP (IL)

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The quote below was in reference to his 1977 civilian model mention by TGP(IL).
1980 was the first year the 205 gearbox was standard in all 30 series square body four wheel drives regardless of transmission option.

You are Correct!
My Bad for not clarifying the 77.
It has a converted NP203 I converted in 1978
Thanks!

As the truck sit's today
Tom


"If your 1977 has a 205 transfer case it would have been a manual transmission when new, or the original 203 was replaced with the 205 if it had an automatic
 

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86m1028

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I thought all Cucv dually's were converted ??
On another note I have 2 m1028a1's that came "factory" with np205's.

Someone here posted the different nsn #'s for the m1028a1's, m1031's, m1028a2's & m1028a3's
 
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Haoleb

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Raymond, Maine
Well after having the old girl sitting in my driveway half apart for the last week got it running again today. I replaced the radiator, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, bypass hose, water pump, harmonic balancer, new belts & overflow hose. The old radiator was definitely full of gunk. The expansion bottle had about an inch of mud in the bottom of it.

Took a while to get the water pump, even living in new England it took a few days for Napa to get one from CT. Usually I can get any part I need in a day.

Had no real issues working on the truck. Having a large impact gun took the crank bolt right off and no issues torqueing it back on with the pulley holder I had purchased for doing the timing belt on the Tacoma I had years ago.

Even tightening the belts which I was dreading was easy-peasy once I figured out how to put tension on each component. And the belts I ordered from the "correct belt size" thread fit perfect.

Tightening the PS pump belt was easy. I used a small crescent wrench and tightened it down right onto the bottom of the bracket and was able to have a nice handle to apply force and still be able to tighten the bolt with my other hand. Super easy.

Drivers side alt I put that same cresecent on the top of the alternator where they put two flat spots where the top adjustment bolt goes and again had a nice handle to apply pressure.

Passenger side I put a long extension through the hole in the top of the bracket and pried against the alternator body to apply pressure. Again super easy!

My drivers side alt does need new bearings I fear- It squeaks when turned by hand and I can hear it squeak when the engine is running. I will try to pick up a new one and use this one as a spare.

No issues fitting the new radiator except the rubber bumpers on top and bottom did not hold it tight. They looked pretty good so I did not order new ones but the radiator was loose at first. I added some pieces of some foam I had in there to help secure it and it seems to be fine for now. The fittings they include for the heater core and the low coolant sensor I did modify. I used the one with 1/4" NPT threads with a reducer down to 1/8 NPT for the coolant sensor. because the sensor I had would not fit through the fitting with 1/8 threads without modification. Then I drilled out the 1/8 threads on the other fitting for the heater core. Opened it up with a step bit to the full size allowable for proper flow.

I also replaced the air filter with a K&N and it seems noticeably louder form the intake now..


Drove it about an hour and a half and no issues. No leaks.. nothing :) Now to drop the tranny pan and change the filter and replace the fluid and check the diff's and tcase. And tackle the non working idiot lights. But so far... loving the cucv!
20160814_134507.jpg

Torquing the crank bolt to 200lbs Threw on some Loctite red for the heck of it... I have the impact incase I need to get it off again.

20160814_134602.jpg

Pulley holder. Worked great for holding the balancer.

20160818_084945.jpg

Tightening the PS pump little cresecent fits great right there!


20160818_084959.jpg

I read a suggestion to torque at the bottom bracket where the square head bolt is welded on... Problem is that part is just bolted to the pump. It does not have the strength that this area has to be able to pry on.
 

85CUCVtom

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Lakewood, Ohio
It's been a a little while but I've seen that truck before too. Looks like it's in good hands can't wait to see how it turns out.
 
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rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
I thought all Cucv dually's were converted ??
On another note I have 2 m1028a1's that came "factory" with np205's.

Someone here posted the different nsn #'s for the m1028a1's, m1031's, m1028a2's & m1028a3's
Your right. As far as I know all the M1028's came with the NP205 transfer-case. The other models came with the NP208 .
 
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