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coverting a CUCv from 24V to 12V

joeyaguirre21

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el paso, texas
how's everyone doing, I'm new to this so help me out. I just bought my first CUCV couple months back and finally got around to fixing it up to start driving. I'm just curious on the conversion just in case I need to buy a starter and can't find or afford a 24V at that moment. so I hope someone can help me and by converting it to 12V, what else would I have to chnage
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
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It is not a bad idea to have a spare stater and a spare alternator on hand if you own a MV. This will eliminate the no money to fix or can't find one when you need it . If it isn't your daily driver breaking down isn't that big of a issue , but if the starter goes out on a sunday afternoon and you need it for work monday morning spare parts are a must for a 30+ year old truck , whether it's 24v or 12v it's a good chance the parts store will have to get it from the warehouse.
 

NovacaineFix

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Location
San Diego, California
To get a better understanding, why are you considering converting it to full 12V?

I stand behind Porky and Recovery, not only does the stock configure work well (it's not perfect, but it works) it isn't that hard to really figure out, most people just overthink it.

If you are going to convert it, follow the steps in the link that Porky posted, if you skip out and do something different, it will be that much harder to diagnose future issues.
When I 1st saw these, the 24/12V system threw me for a loop, but now after having one of my own and knowing how it works, it's gravy, besides like Porky said, it will be cheaper down the road leaving it stock.


What are the issues you are have or what do you need to know? A lot of people have these and are willing to help, but if you don't want to ask, the search bar can be your friend as well, pics help too.

Good Luck and keep us posted.

BTW welcome aboard.

CMUjBtE.gif
 

joeyaguirre21

Member
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Location
el paso, texas
Thanks for the input everyone. It was just a curious thing i was thinking just in case I needed parts right there and then and couldnt wait to find them or didnt have the money to buy them. But y'all do have a point about learning its ins and outs of it to become more knowledgeable. So it was just a question i wanted to ask. Also what do alternators or starter cost for these 24V systems? Also if i wanted to put some lights or something, would i be able to run a wire off the battery or off the buss bar on the firewall in the engine compartment with a switch within the cab to turn on or off. Or would i be able to connect lights to the black out light and use that switch thats inside the cab already
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
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Location
San Diego, California
I do all my own work but the last time I had an alternator changed out on my 1009, it was about $260 installed and out the door. I didn't have time to work on it and it was cheaper at this time to have someone else work on it, or lose $500 for the day since the truck was sort of down for the day. It still ran, but was pumping out 36 volts altogether, which is no bueno for the batteries.

If you pick up an alternator yourself at your local parts store, they should run about $65-$100, probably less. Remember these are 12V alternators, not 24v, they combine together to get the 24 volts. Starters, I have seen for about $130, but it's been awhile so don't quote me exactly on that price.

The bus bar on the firewall and the one behind the seat like my 1009 are 24V, so unless you are running 24V devices from them, consider them no go. There is a 12V junction on the firewall just above the glow plug relay or you can connect straight to the battery, just be sure to use the appropriate fuse or circuit breaker for protection. Avoid use the tap from the fuse block under the dash as it is tied to the already overloaded headlight circuit.

3_zpsd3f30719.jpg
 

joeyaguirre21

Member
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Location
el paso, texas
By the NovacaineFix is that your engine bay in the pic yiu sent me to let me know about the bus bar? If it is i see you eliminated the blow by filter on the right side of the engine if im correct. If not, please educate me.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
By the NovacaineFix is that your engine bay in the pic yiu sent me to let me know about the bus bar? If it is i see you eliminated the blow by filter on the right side of the engine if im correct. If not, please educate me.

No, not mine. When I replied it was already too late and dark outside to snap a pic. So I did what any red blooded American would do, I stole it from the interwebs, lol. Not sure who's that is.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
That would be the CDR valve, if we are looking at the same thing. Looking from where that image came from, it was a write up about removing the intake and such.

You can find it here:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...-builds/664018-84-m1009-cucv-lumberbeast.html, it's about halfway or more down the page.

I think he was just removing the CDR valve in preparing for the removing of the heads.
I wouldn't see any benefit in removing the CDR in anyway, it is the same as a PCV valve in a gas engine. If you were to remove/eliminate it, I see several oil leaks in the future.

here is a the photos in order of his post
2_zpsa32aaf03.jpg3_zpsd3f30719.jpg

You can see a nice write up for it here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?39599-What-is-a-CDR-valve


Cleaning or replacing a stuck one, is a good idea though.
 
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