M1038 Mile Marker winch troubleshooting

[kfrosty]

I think it's a 1038, but just got it home. I ordered some winch controls and plug them in and nothing.

I've played with the levers on the winch and can't get it to free wheel. I haven't found the manuals. Posting this to see if there is something simple to these I'm missing. The remote hook from the dash has a wire that looks to be going to a module by the winch.

From what I can tell it looks to be a hydraulic version.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[darkturbo]

some pictures will help with your case

 

[kfrosty]

some pictures will help with your case

Mile marker winches are pretty standard aren't they? Mine is hydraulic.

Here's a link to one if it helps.
http://www.ironplanet.com/for-sale/...?h=5000,q|M1038&rr=0.16667&hitprm=&pnLink=yes

 

[darkturbo]

From what I can tell it looks to be a hydraulic version.

Any input is appreciated.

I seem like you are not sure so I ask for a pic of your winch so the expert here can confirm.. but if you are sure your is hydraulic then nvm

Anyway, mine is hydraulic and has 2 levers, slow and fast. set both to free wheel = free wheel, free wheel + fast = fast, and free wheel + slow = slow

 

[dv8r]

I have recently went through what sounds like a similar issue. There are some bad winch controllers being sold currently as NOS. They have new plugs and such, but faulty switches. Use a continuity tester and/or test light to narrow down if it's the controller. I added a data plate pic if that helps you figure the winch controlling. In the controller pic shown, it would winch out but not in...so once I spooled out and found this out, had to switch the solenoid wires on the winch to make the Out button actually winch In. If your controller looks like mine in the pic, then it's actually a Warn controller from when they used electric winches. They still work for the hydraulic Mile Marker winches.

 

[86humv]

The milemarker winch controller is yellow and has two push buttons.
The controllers from Warn are black and are wired different....just switch wires around.

 

[kfrosty]

Thank you for the responses.

My controllers are the black ones. When I plug them in, nothing at all happens.

Is this as simple as changing these two connectors?

 

[dv8r]

Thank you for the responses.

My controllers are the black ones. When I plug them in, nothing at all happens.

Is this as simple as changing these two connectors?

View attachment 639520

In your pic, the top solenoid is the 'Out' and the bottom is the 'In'. If you have the black controller that I showed in previous post, it's more likely the switch inside the controller itself. You need a test light/continuity tester to see if power is even getting to the solenoids on the winch. In my case, the controller switch only worked in the one direction which I found out by switching the solenoid wires around while testing it all. The first thing though, is checking to see if you have a bad controller from my experience.

 

[desmodromic]

In your pic, the top solenoid is the 'Out' and the bottom is the 'In'. If you have the black controller that I showed in previous post, it's more likely the switch inside the controller itself. You need a test light/continuity tester to see if power is even getting to the solenoids on the winch. In my case, the controller switch only worked in the one direction which I found out by switching the solenoid wires around while testing it all. The first thing though, is checking to see if you have a bad controller from my experience.

The great knowledge base on Steel Soldiers delivers again. I am experiencing the same issue with with my MM hydraulic winch. It will pay out, but will not pay in with what I now know is an electric Warn winch controller. I'll test the controller, but my guess is I bought a bad "NOS" controller. What was your solution, acquiring the correct MM controller?

 

[kfrosty]

Still haven't got it to work but not a priority right now.

 

[Joehop]

I just recently sold an 87 1038, somewhere in the manual I read that the transfer case has to be in lock. Once locked in the winch worked.

 

[Action]

What does the transfer case have to do with a winch? The winch is either electric or hydraulic. The hydraulic one gets power from the steering / brake system.

 

[Action]

I just read the book. It appears the T/C in LOW LOCK is to keep the Humvee from moving (if pulling something). Nothing to do with the winch operation.
Also for hydraulic winch users. Do not use the brakes or steering while the winch is in operation. Doing this may cause the winch to stop working.

 

[dv8r]

The great knowledge base on Steel Soldiers delivers again. I am experiencing the same issue with with my MM hydraulic winch. It will pay out, but will not pay in with what I now know is an electric Warn winch controller. I'll test the controller, but my guess is I bought a bad "NOS" controller. What was your solution, acquiring the correct MM controller?

I got a switch just to make it work... http://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-hersee--sealed-toggle-switches--P014152292 the 55025-04BP

 

[Joehop]

What does the transfer case have to do with a winch? The winch is either electric or hydraulic. The hydraulic one gets power from the steering / brake system.

I have no idea. I had the same issue, the winch just wouldnt work. I had a brand new remote which I knew worked. I have a manual for a 1123 and was reading through it, I cant find the manual now, but somewhere in there it read that the transfer case had to be in HL. Once I tried it locked in, the winch operated like its supposed to. Just trying to help out with what worked for me.

 

[Joehop]

Ok, so I just found the manual. It for a M1113. On page 2-92.2 under b (2) it says "Place transfer selector lever in low lock". This is for Hydraulic winch operation.

a. General. Vehicle must be running for power steering system to power winch. Applying vehicle brakes or turning steering wheel can be done while operating winch, but this may cause winch to stop. To achieve 100% pulling power, do not brake or steer while operating winch. It is possible to pay out vehicle's winch cable without running. This is accomplished with the freespool method. Keep no less than five cable wraps on drum during all winch operations.

this worked on my 87 1038

 

[Action]

The operator's manual you want is TM-9-2320-280-10.
It has the exact same paragraph, though.

 

[dv8r]

The great knowledge base on Steel Soldiers delivers again. I am experiencing the same issue with with my MM hydraulic winch. It will pay out, but will not pay in with what I now know is an electric Warn winch controller. I'll test the controller, but my guess is I bought a bad "NOS" controller. What was your solution, acquiring the correct MM controller?

I just used a new switch and rigged it in what was left after tearing out the housing.
Make sure the switch is M-On/Off/M-On...55025-04-BP
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-hersee--sealed-toggle-switches--P014152292

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Interesting.... I never would have thought that for a hydraulic winch.. I've got the electric winch on my M1038

 

[NormB]

For anyone trying to disassemble the ITT cannon plug here's a side-view: https://secure.ittcannon.com/mc/PdfDrawingGenerator/CA3106E14S-1PBF80.pdf