Drivers side front sag??

[richingalveston]

I will be taking mine to a frame shop soon to have it checked out. my issue is so slight that taking measurements wont find it. Yes you can measure to find major sags of a couple inches but the frame can be twisted and racked to one side.

I recommend a good construction laser if you wish to go the measurement route. It can tell you where your concrete is out as well as where your frame is out relative to the laser. It takes some drawings to map out all of the frame measurements but the laser will allow you to shim/block every tire until they are level then the laser will be your new flat surface to measure to so your concrete condition becomes irrelevant.

Everyone has gotten worked up over this, you can find major frame problems but if you are looking to correct something that is 1/2 inch out, you need a rack to tie the frame to and to get proper alignment points.

I used my laser's (2 of them) to do my first tire alignment and it was closer than I thought when I actually put it on a rack.

I hope to have mine checked out in the next Month. It will be a friends shop so I should be able to get some pics and possibly some professional advice for all once mine has been checked out. I may be pulling motor soon so I need to see if the motor has to be in it or if I can bring it to him with the motor out.

Good luck to all
Rich

 

[porkysplace]

I was thinking that a tape measure works for that much sag because they typically measure down to a sixteenth increment.

Works well on a flat surface too but I guess you can interpret that either way depending on if you believe in the Earth being flat or round...

I don't know about other parts of the country but there are still a couple of spring shops that re-arch spring to factory specs and install or sell new bushings if you want to press them in yourself . They also make custom leaf springs . Or you can go buy some Autozone chinese leaf springs and change them again in a few years . We even have a coil spring manufacturer just outside of town .

 

[dependable]

I was thinking that a tape measure works for that much sag because they typically measure down to a sixteenth increment.

Works well on a flat surface too but I guess you can interpret that either way depending on if you believe in the Earth being flat or round...

This may be part of the misunderstanding around this topic, maybe the Earth is flat out in the middle of the land mass, but gets round by the ocean. **:

• still don't know how to use these flippin modicoms, but suspect that may be a good thing. Wife says I need to trim nails due to ckacking on board ha, it is only Thursday.

 

[rustystud]

I don't know about other parts of the country but there are still a couple of spring shops that re-arch spring to factory specs and install or sell new bushings if you want to press them in yourself . They also make custom leaf springs . Or you can go buy some Autozone chinese leaf springs and change them again in a few years . We even have a coil spring manufacturer just outside of town .

I bought my springs from a manufacture who makes them here in the good ole U.S of A. As far as "my" whining you got to be kidding ! If any one says anything about your ideas you go bat$hit crazy on them ! I gave you perfectly logical reasons for my diagnostics while you just gave name calling and sarcasm ! So who's the real whiner here ! Lets face it, ever since I came on this site and proved you wrong you get crazy whenever I say anything now. This site is for sharing knowledge and our experiences with our love of Military vehicles. Don't make it a personal clic thing where the "new" guy has to be quite and don't bother the "experienced" ones !

 

[Drock]

Wow Army truck drama LOL!opcorn: Recap & a couple points I'd like to make,.. The OP's truck is sagging to one side, so just for good measure "Pun intended" he should check the cross measurements of the frame to make sure it's not bend, or racked. And yes this is a very simple process that CAN be accomplished with a simple tape measure and a trust worthy helper. If it not bent, (chances are it's not), his problem then will most likely be 30yr old springs and/or rotted rubber bushings. And at that point, In my opinion if your going to all the trouble of replacing springs, bushings, and shocks. You mite as well improve on the factory design, save a few $$$$ in the process, and do a lift kit. I just did a Skyjacker 2-1/2" lift on my M1028. The lift isn't obnoxious and the ride is 100% better.

 

[86m1028]

These are 30 year old truck frames.
Its not rocket sience... theses frames weren't perfectly straight from the factory new.
Like it was said earlier, probably sagging springs, rotted bushings ect.
Could be a bent, racked frame BUT a tape measure is plenty accurate for this.
Spend a little time in the driveway & take measurements.
Save your self the $$$.

You came on here & asked opinions....
A lot of people are speaking from experience, "rearching" springs does NOT last.
New bushings & springs are probably the answer.
Id even go so far to say if you posted some detailed pics of the truck, including some from the underside, one of us could tell you where your problem is.

 

[porkysplace]

I bought my springs from a manufacture who makes them here in the good ole U.S of A. As far as "my" whining you got to be kidding ! If any one says anything about your ideas you go bat$hit crazy on them ! I gave you perfectly logical reasons for my diagnostics while you just gave name calling and sarcasm ! So who's the real whiner here ! Lets face it, ever since I came on this site and proved you wrong you get crazy whenever I say anything now. This site is for sharing knowledge and our experiences with our love of Military vehicles. Don't make it a personal clic thing where the "new" guy has to be quite and don't bother the "experienced" ones !

YOUR THE ONE THAT BROUGHT THE WHINING REMARKS INTO THIS THREAD. You also can't stand someone doing things that are not your way of doing them . It happens in almost every thread you post in.

 

[JeremiahAK907]

Soooooo update and first wanted to say thanks for all the input and you guys crack me up I've narrowed it down to the left side spring due to the way it's negative arch is waaaay more than the passenger side and being that's it not a big deal Like 1/2 inch. And being not a real safety issue in just gonna leave till I get the ORD 4 inch lift with the shackle flip. Thanks for all the input guys. Hopefully I can get that left after my deployment!!!

 

[rustystud]

Soooooo update and first wanted to say thanks for all the input and you guys crack me up I've narrowed it down to the left side spring due to the way it's negative arch is waaaay more than the passenger side and being that's it not a big deal Like 1/2 inch. And being not a real safety issue in just gonna leave till I get the ORD 4 inch lift with the shackle flip. Thanks for all the input guys. Hopefully I can get that left after my deployment!!!

I almost went with the shackle flip myself, I still might. I have had real good luck with all the "ORD" products I've bought.

 

[rustystud]

YOUR THE ONE THAT BROUGHT THE WHINING REMARKS INTO THIS THREAD. You also can't stand someone doing things that are not your way of doing them . It happens in almost every thread you post in.

Really ?! Talk to the hand !

 

[Drock]

I almost went with the shackle flip myself, I still might. I have had real good luck with all the "ORD" products I've bought.

I just finish a Skyjacker 2-1/2" lift in the front and ORD shackle & U-bolt flip in the rear. The ORD stuff is a much better design and well built. But it is a lot more work, and it raised the back about 4" rather then the 2-1/2" it was supposed to. also I ended up having to shorten my drive shaft because it swings the axle forward.

 

[rustystud]

I just finish a Skyjacker 2-1/2" lift in the front and ORD shackle & U-bolt flip in the rear. The ORD stuff is a much better design and well built. But it is a lot more work, and it raised the back about 4" rather then the 2-1/2" it was supposed to. also I ended up having to shorten my drive shaft because it swings the axle forward.

When I went with the heavy duty rear shackles they lowered the rear end over 1" . You would think that is nothing and they actually warn you this will happen but I went ahead with them. Now when the truck is on the driveway you can see the difference plainly. I does bother me a little, that is why I'm considering the "shackle flip" kit now. If I could find some "factory" replacements (same length) that are heavy duty I would use them.

 

[porkysplace]

Really ?! Talk to the hand !

POST # 17 . It also looks like he found the problem WITHOUT a frame machine.

 

[rustystud]

POST # 17 . It also looks like he found the problem WITHOUT a frame machine.

Posts #5, 19, 22 and a bunch on the other post about frames. Really you do get all freaked out about this. Also where did the OP say he fixed the problem ? Post # 28 says he "narrowed it down" not fixed it. I also said change the springs as did cucvrus . I didn't say anything about taking it to a frame shop here. On post #17 I was responding to your "sarcastic" remarks about the other post. In this post I said it could be a number of things most likely bad springs and bushings. Get your facts straight. Oh I forget that is your main problem isn't it ? Facts.

 

[rustystud]

Wow Army truck drama LOL!opcorn: Recap & a couple points I'd like to make,.. The OP's truck is sagging to one side, so just for good measure "Pun intended" he should check the cross measurements of the frame to make sure it's not bend, or racked. And yes this is a very simple process that CAN be accomplished with a simple tape measure and a trust worthy helper. If it not bent, (chances are it's not), his problem then will most likely be 30yr old springs and/or rotted rubber bushings. And at that point, In my opinion if your going to all the trouble of replacing springs, bushings, and shocks. You mite as well improve on the factory design, save a few $$$$ in the process, and do a lift kit. I just did a Skyjacker 2-1/2" lift on my M1028. The lift isn't obnoxious and the ride is 100% better.

Actually if you measure it like that it will show a bent frame even if it isn't bent. The frame flexes so much on these trucks that it cannot hold it's shape when the springs are bad. That is one reason they installed those frame brackets on both sides just past the engine. It must be properly supported to accurately check it. But like I said before I believe it is bad springs and bushings not a bent frame.

 

[porkysplace]

Posts #5, 19, 22 and a bunch on the other post about frames. Really you do get all freaked out about this. Also where did the OP say he fixed the problem ? Post # 28 says he "narrowed it down" not fixed it. I also said change the springs as did cucvrus . I didn't say anything about taking it to a frame shop here. On post #17 I was responding to your "sarcastic" remarks about the other post. In this post I said it could be a number of things most likely bad springs and bushings. Get your facts straight. Oh I forget that is your main problem isn't it ? Facts.

My facts are straight your the one who keeps twisting them around , because you can't accept the fact some people can find the problem without sending it out to someone else to diagnosis it. And just like post #35 if your getting that nit-picky to properly measure the frame the body should be removed as well.

 

[Drock]

Actually if you measure it like that it will show a bent frame even if it isn't bent. The frame flexes so much on these trucks that it cannot hold it's shape when the springs are bad. That is one reason they installed those frame brackets on both sides just past the engine. It must be properly supported to accurately check it. But like I said before I believe it is bad springs and bushings not a bent frame.

Agreed, it would need to be on jack stands, on level ground to get an accurate measurement. I was too busy trying to be funny and left that part out

 

[cucvrus]

I think this subject has been beat to death. My M1009 frame is bent at a few places since this subject went viral. A frame alignment machine supports the body and frame on separate clamps/stands and you do not need to remove a body to get a frame in exact measurements. That would be a bit labor intense and many insurance company's would be totaling a lot more vehicles if such was the case. And I think we all have a fair idea on the resolution to the issue. Not all of us are happy with the do it your-selfer techniques and results and are willing to pay up to get the job done correctly and with more accurate results. That is a given. So you do things your way and let the OP do things the way they choice. Backing up a bit. I have had springs re-arched in the past and the results were they needed reached again. So as I did a time study I put new springs on 1 truck and re-arched on another set for another truck. Both M1008 snow plow trucks. After 2 years the re-arched had returned to the pre-re-arched height. And the new ones had hardly dropped at all. Possibly an 1/8". But I only measured it in my garage and I was here when the slab was poured and no lasers were present. So I may have issues with my measurements and diagnosis. My vote is for replacement springs. Time has proven that is the wiser choice. So lets play nice like adults and get past this bump in the road. It is starting to tweak a few more then frames. Have a great day.

 

[rustystud]

My facts are straight your the one who keeps twisting them around , because you can't accept the fact some people can find the problem without sending it out to someone else to diagnosis it. And just like post #35 if your getting that nit-picky to properly measure the frame the body should be removed as well.

Actually I post things here to help others do the job themselves. There are just some things due to the fact most people cannot afford an alignment machine or frame checker that it is just easier and better for the pros to do. I take my own vehicles to the alignment shop and I'm a Master Certified Mechanic ! What I don't have and never will is a multi-thousand dollar alignment machine ! So am I going to try and perform a job that will take me days to do (and might get it wrong) or take it to a shop that can do it in minutes and do it right ? Of course I'll take it to the shop.
For those wondering how to do a frame check on your own you first must put the truck up on jackstands, then using a laser level adjust each jack so the vehicle is perfectly level. I did it once and is was such a pain I will never do it again. Trying to shim up your truck with little pieces of metal to get it just right. Remember the frames flex ! It took six jackstands because of that. My time is worth more then that. The last time I had it done the shop charged me $60.00 . That's one hour of work for me. Is it worth your time porkysplace ?

 

[Skinny]

Congrats on finding the problem, glad it all worked out. I have not sent my springs out to be re-arched at all. With the age, I just went with new lift springs. I will say that my USA made 1 ton rear springs for my M1031 where big $$$ but worth every penny. They ride awesome!

I'm also glad that 4 pages of banter got a result for the OP without spending any money. Going back to using my hands, you could jamb a few fingers in between the U-bolt plate and the bumpstop to see that she is off a 1/2". I would only use my calibrated fingers for measurement though...