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Mep 803 with problems shutting down

Triton

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Location
Houston, Texas
I'm new to diesel generators but I have been reading a lot here. I acquired an 803 and started checking it out. I saw this unit running and putting out power and being used several months ago. Owner said it just quit putting out power and he was not going to mess with it.

Here is what I have problems with so far:

Engine started fine
It's has 60 hz on the gauge that can be adjusted
It's not showing any voltage on the gauge
Convenience plug has 120volts
Selector switch behind panel is in 120/240 single phase
Selector switch on outside of panel is on 1 L3 L1
None of the out put lugs have power

Now for the big thing, went to turn the engine off and it would not stop with switch
Pushed the emergency stop button and nothing
Went to engine and pulled the solenoid stop lever and it did nothing just moved back and forth freely
Had to pull the air hose off and choke the air off to stop the engine

I guess I should start with getting the engine to shut down first but don't know what to look at, any suggestions?
Thanks
Keith
 

Triton

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Location
Houston, Texas
I went to get a video of the solenoid cut off and the lever is fully forward. I tried to start the unit with the front panel to see if it is working and now there is no power to the switch in any position and no power to the panel lights. It does dead crank, strange it worked before!
 

Haoleb

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Location
Raymond, Maine
There is a note in the manual that if the injection pumps get turned clockwise that you may experience an issue where the unit will not shut off. When you hit the switch to close the output contactor in the unit does the green light come on? Sounds like the contactor is not closing.
 

Triton

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Location
Houston, Texas
Sorry had to finish some mowing, the unit is not doing anything now, but the dead crank switch does work and the batteries are hot. I can't even get the green panel lights to come on which where working until I had to kill the engine. Is there a switch that's not working?
 

DieselAddict

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If the E-Stop is pushed in you will get no control power. If you pulled out the switch check to make sure the contacts behind the panel closed. They may be stuck.

There is a DC circuit breaker that you can pull out (behind the panel). That will also kill control power. Check that as well.

Make sure the dead crank switch is in the "NORMAL" position. That will also kill control power.
 

Triton

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Location
Houston, Texas
Ok DieselAddict, I think the emergency stop was in, won't do that again! I can't get the video to upload, may be too big. The unit runs and starts fine but it will not shut down with the front panel switch or the emergency stop switch. I have tried to manually move the lever on the solenoid and it won't kill it either. I have to pull the hose from the air filter and shut off the air to stop the engine.
 

DieselAddict

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You can upload the video on youtube and post the link here.

When you move the fuel stop solenoid does it rotate the cam on the side of the engine?
 

DieselAddict

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Since your solenoid is not releasing you need to look through the TM and trace the circuit back. You may have a stuck relay in the control panel.
 

Triton

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Location
Houston, Texas
I looked through all the TM's last night that I had and don't see any wiring diagrams for this unit. I did see a reference to the relay but that's it. What TM show the wiring schematics?
 

Triton

Active member
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Location
Houston, Texas
Found the schematics on the TM but they will not print full size and I can't view them full size. I'm going to have to label some of these things so I can remember what they are!
 

Guyfang

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Partner,

You need to look at S-1 start switch, and see if its wired right, if it has the proper voltages, on the proper terminals, in the proper positions. Also look to see the all the jumpers are on the switch.

Then check CR-4 diode, on the S-1. MAKE SURE ITS GOOD; and HOOKED UP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. Darn, hate it when I hit the wrong key!!

Like DAYBREAK said, go to the manuals section and use those. Another hint, the 5 and 10 KW sets have almost the same wire schematics, so if one schematic prints better, than the other, Just print em out. They are for all intents and purposes the same. I always printed them out on larger paper and taped them together.

Also, look at the row of relays in the control box. The first one, left side is NOT a relay, its a switch. The rest are all relays, all the same type. Check that all of them are in the socket right, and tight.
 

Triton

Active member
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81
28
Location
Houston, Texas
I figure out that not all TM files are the same, I found another one that printed fine. Going to start checking those things out this week, thanks for the help. I'll post what I find.
 

Triton

Active member
240
81
28
Location
Houston, Texas
Got a chance to do some more testing before it started raining. Here's what I found on the master switch S-1, pins 2,4,6,and 8 have 24 volts constant. When I switch to pre-heat pin 1 has 24 volts, in prime and run aux fuel pins 3 and 5 have 24 volts. In the prime and run position pin 3 has 24 volts, in the start position pins 3 and 7 have 24 volts. I think the switch is good but it still won't shut off, I have to disconnect the fuel shut-off solenoid. I did notice that while the unit is running if I flip the ac interrupt and the battle short and turn the master switch to run the generator puts out power on the gauge and at the lugs. Learned a little more today!
 
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