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The Deuce lives

lenny3

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Evansville In.
You may remember my post about finding a 1966 Kaiser Jeep duece sitting down the street that had been neglected for ten years. By the time I had made my last post I had pumped out 50 gal of rank diesel installed 2 new Optmal blue top batteries . Changed the secondary fuel filters and air filter. Put in 15 gal of fresh diesel. Had my lovely assistant turn the power switch . Within a few seconds fuel sprayed out behind the oil filters . Turned out the fuel line going to the preheated had been eaten by a rodent of some sort . I replaced it .Turned the switch on pushed the magic red button after a few seconds . IT STARTS TO RUMBLE. tear of joy ran down my cheek literally
 

lenny3

New member
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Location
Evansville In.
Now some of the problems I need to address to make it road worthy . I have no seats well except for the five gallon bucket . The tires are rough ( all hold air ,but are dry rotted). The air pack is sticking causing the brakes to stay engaged.
Other issues, bad j pipe .I need to change the lube in all my axels and transfer case. I have already changed the motor oil and transmission lube. Transmission lube was white . The shifter boot had a large gaping crack and it had been sitting without a top for at least 10 years . I had to use pb blaster to free up the shifter .

How worried should I be about the bearings in the transmission ? I did not have hardly any rust come out but it was a couple of quarts overfull I am assuming because of water .
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
NORTH (Canada)
How worried should I be about the bearings in the transmission ? I did not have hardly any rust come out but it was a couple of quarts overfull I am assuming because of water .
Drain and take the lid with the shifter off. That way, you get a good visual of the inside. Then you can do an informed selection of the options you have...such as spray the crud out with WD40, refill tranny and run it, with fingers crossed. If it fails, well, swap out or repair. If you swap out right away, you have all the work to do anyway...might want to chance it, if it does not look too horrible.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
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Location
Cincy Ohio
The air pack is controlled by the master cyl. and is considerably more expensive. I'd try pulling the the master cyl. and trying to rebuild it first.
 

lenny3

New member
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Location
Evansville In.
The only reason I suspect the air pack is the higher the air pressure the longer it sticks .With no air pressure it releases Immediately , but did question my logic and my value of my life Relying on a possibly fifty-year-old master cylinder , purchased a nos one . Should I rebuild the new one ? Are they known for seals going bad on the shelf ? The reason I just did not get a rebuild kit for the one I have is At some point I would like to have spairs for almost everything..
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
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Cincy Ohio
New is fine, sounds like the relay valve in the air pack is gummed up. Sounds like its time to pull it and rebuild.

PM headed your way.
 

lenny3

New member
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0
Location
Evansville In.
I purchased a long air pack and a rebuild kit off ebay . the air pack was one being sold as a core . both for less than $150 delivered . Changed it and the master cyl found out it had dot 3 and dot 5 brake fluid mixed . Found out a day later I bleed the brakes the hard way. I am running dot 3 brake fluid till I replace all my lines hoses and wheel cylinders . I drove it to work all last week . I definitely need a seat the correct height and a top .
I have rebuild kits for the wheel cylinders , and replacement hoses . Does anyone have a list as far as what I need to get as far as the brake lines length diameter exedra ?
My intank fuel pump died on me it was making strange squealing noises and then popped a fuse . I purchased a working pull out off ebay just waiting for it to come.

I have experienced some problems with my winch . When I started messing with it I noticed the chain had been wrapped up into the the bracket that runs across the winch and it was in a real bind the shear pin was sheared as well. I freed everything up except the brake won't change position . Upon driving it seems the cab flexes enough to pop the pto partially into gear thank god I did not put a new pin in the slipping pressure of the yoke was enough to bind it up again . I pulled the drive shaft just incase for now. I don't want to destroy my radiator or my winch both seem to cost about 1g.
 
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