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Leveling M1101 Trailer to M1009 CUCV

tjcusmc

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This is my first time asking a question on here so dont go to hard on me. I have a 84 m1009 and just recently purchased a m1101 trailer. I want to keep the stock tires on both the truck and the trailer. Does anyone know the correct lunette eye drop to level out the trailer? Its not tilted forward too bad but im having surge brake issues when i hit bumps or have a heavy load in the trailer. I lubricated everything i can see on the surge brake system. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

dougco1

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im having surge brake issues when i hit bumps or have a heavy load in the trailer

What type of issues are you having? If the trailer brakes lock up and release (usually in rapid succession) when your slowing down it may be the small shock inside the surge brake is worn out.
 

tjcusmc

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The surge brakes are getting stuck on. I have to go in reverse and slam on the brakes to break them free sometimes. I took the actuator shock completely out and it still happened. As far as I can tell the shock is good. The whole trailer is basically in mint condition. I'm pretty sure on top of needing to be lubed up the slight forward pitch isn't helping.
 

98G

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I've towed them with a stock M1009 without issue.

If you must have it level, making a pintle riser isn't an ideal solution. The drop to the truck changes the leverage, and applies twisting forces to the truck frame. This also applies to dropping the lunette. Dropping the lunette has the added disadvantage that it will alter surge brake input.

I'd consider lifting the truck and putting bigger tires on it to get it closer to level, and then a milder pintle riser.
 

Mainsail

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I hope you realize that the M1009 can pull the trailer, but that's pretty much it. If you load the trailer you'll exceed the tow capacity of the M1009 bumper mounted pintle hook.

I pulled mine home today with my M1009 but I also got a riser and pintle to mount on my Hemi Jeep.
 

Tinstar

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The surge brakes are getting stuck on. I have to go in reverse and slam on the brakes to break them free sometimes. I took the actuator shock completely out and it still happened. As far as I can tell the shock is good. The whole trailer is basically in mint condition. I'm pretty sure on top of needing to be lubed up the slight forward pitch isn't helping.
Almost sounds like rusted drums and/or hardware.
Most likely bad wheel cylinders or master cylinder or both.
Did you have the drums turned?
What did the shoes look like?
Did you flush system and replace with new fluid?
What did old fluid look like?

Parking brake cable causing interference?

Mint condition means nothing on something that's sat rusting (internal) for years.

Mine wasn't mint but in really great condition and still needed new master and wheel cylinders along with other things.
 

Tinstar

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Of course the easiest way to level it would be to install a set of CUCV wheels and tires.

A lot of fort hoods sold with that very setup a few weeks back.

No it's not as intended, but looks a lot better than a heavy nose low profile or tons of steel hanging on the bumper.
 

tjcusmc

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I did not realize changing the lunette height would cause that much stress on the truck, thanks for informing me on this. It sounds like bigger tires and a lift might be the way to go. If I do that I will change the gear ratio also to accommodate.
 

tjcusmc

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yonkers new york
I did look through the TM on this site and checked just about everything you stated. I did not flush the fluid because it looked fine to me. I did hope the issue would clear up by use but ive been using the trailer daily and it still locks up randomly. The problem is most likely the master cylinder. Any good sources for parts for these trailers?
 

Jakob1944

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I did look through the TM on this site and checked just about everything you stated. I did not flush the fluid because it looked fine to me. I did hope the issue would clear up by use but ive been using the trailer daily and it still locks up randomly. The problem is most likely the master cylinder. Any good sources for parts for these trailers?

The angle could have something to do with the brake lock up.......
 

98G

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Here's my take on pintle risers -

Take a stock height civvy truck with a stock hitch. You want to tow an M1101 level. So you fabricate a custom pintle riser. It looks like a steel plate, with triangular gussets, leading to a 2x2" drawbar that inserts into the stock 2" receiver hitch. To be level, you added about 11" of "up".

Now think about forward and rearward forces acting on it. It is now much higher than the 2" receiver. As viewed from the passenger side of the truck, acceleration will place counterclockwise twisting forces on the hitch, while braking will place clockwise twisting forces. The force is multiplied by the amount of riser.

So let's chop off the lunette ring and alter the trailer instead. The twisting forces are now applied to your fab work on the trailer. Worse than that, the plunger for the surge brakes is no longer pushed straight back but is twisted back and down and will act funny and bind, causing delays in brake application.

I used a civvy truck as my example because it has a hitch receiver instead of a bolted on pintle hook. The problems will be very similar with any alteration you come up with for the M1009.

A bigger player is the towed weight rating of the M1009. 1200 lbs I believe. The M1101 is 1480lbs empty.... you may want to consider an M101.

I hope this helps.
 

98G

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I did not realize changing the lunette height would cause that much stress on the truck, thanks for informing me on this. It sounds like bigger tires and a lift might be the way to go. If I do that I will change the gear ratio also to accommodate.
It's a slippery slope you're starting down....

It ends with 37's, and the 4.56 axles out of an M1008...
 
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