FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

Of all the possible mods that has crossed my mind, adding power and/or speed to the SEE (which I assume is what you're referring to) never made the list. Although it's probably a safe bet that somebody has increased the power in theirs.
I run the engine at a low rpm since my backhoe operator skills can't keep up with running it at 1,800 rpm, and it's plenty strong even at 1,200 rpm for what I've been doing so far.
But having a turbo in the already cramped cab would be nice when it's 20 below.

Edit: Before someone takes this the wrong way, please consider that I'm a horsepower and torque junkie, and love going way too fast.
I just don't think that the SEE is the right vehicle to add extra power or speed to. Guess that means that even I have my limits...or I'm getting old.

 

[MSMOG]

Here is a SEE up in Alaska that seem to have a few unique characteristics, such as a 24" excavator bucket by Intergy Inc instead of CASE. There also is something that I don't recognize on the inside back wall of the cab, between the seats. And it's the only truck that I've seen with the rear tool box between the hydraulic tanks, just in front of the gas tank holder (there was a bulletin about moving stuff out of it due to water issues). There is a partially painted over tag that I haven't run across (might be on the engine because I think it says something about coolant). And then there is a view from underneath that I just can't figure out (apparently I am not yet ONE with my SEE trucks). And if my cab got rust proofed, I didn't get a sticker, AND they missed a few spots.

 

[The FLU farm]

Looks familiar to me, MSMOG, except for what I guess is an Eberspacher or similar heater in the first photo. But in Alaska, that makes sense.
"Intergy" sounds somewhat familiar, so I might have one of those buckets, too. And at least my first SEE has the toolbox...but I can't say for sure that the (formerly) parts SEE does. I think it does, or I would've noticed the void.
The underneath photo looks to me like it's missing the skid plate, but I'm guessing on that one.

 

[MSMOG]

Thanks FLUFARM! I knew the experts would help school this novice. Didn't I see someone add a top mount AC? That would help here in Mississippi. I think the guy had removed all the big implements and maybe the FOPS, put the spare on the roof, and added, among other things, a hydraulic welder. Marty, was that you? I thought I remembered he was somewhere in Louisiana.

 

[General Hood]

Of all the possible mods that has crossed my mind, adding power and/or speed to the SEE (which I assume is what you're referring to) never made the list. Although it's probably a safe bet that somebody has increased the power in theirs.
I run the engine at a low rpm since my backhoe operator skills can't keep up with running it at 1,800 rpm, and it's plenty strong even at 1,200 rpm for what I've been doing so far.
But having a turbo in the already cramped cab would be nice when it's 20 below.

Edit: Before someone takes this the wrong way, please consider that I'm a horsepower and torque junkie, and love going way too fast.

I just don't think that the SEE is the right vehicle to add extra power or speed to. Guess that means that even I have my limits...or I'm getting old.

You should pinstripe your SEE, and install a Banks Power Pack to beef it up

 

[General Hood]

Here is a SEE up in Alaska coming up for sale on GP that seems to have a few unique characteristics, such as a 24" excavator bucket by Intergy Inc instead of CASE. There also is something that I don't recognize on the inside back wall of the cab, between the seats. And it's the only truck that I've seen with the rear tool box between the hydraulic tanks, just in front of the gas tank holder (there was a bulletin about moving stuff out of it due to water issues). There is a partially painted over tag that I haven't run across (might be on the engine because I think it says something about coolant). And then there is a view from underneath that I just can't figure out (apparently I am not yet ONE with my SEE trucks). And if my cab got rust proofed, I didn't get a sticker, AND they missed a few spots.
View attachment 652864View attachment 652865View attachment 652866View attachment 652867View attachment 652863View attachment 652868View attachment 652869View attachment 652870

MSMOG, you may want to check the forum rules about posting in regards to current or future auctions. I don't want to see any of our close group chastised by a moderator. On another note, I find your attention to detail and participation in this forum commendable. I don't know most of you guys, but consider all of you my FLU Friends .
BTW, we are allowed to post on closed auctions, and I did notice there were a number of SEE auctions this week that closed with no bids.

 

[MSMOG]

MSMOG, you may want to check the forum rules about posting in regards to current or future auctions. I don't want to see any of our close group chastised by a moderator. On another note, I find your attention to detail and participation in this forum commendable. I don't know most of you guys, but consider all of you my FLU Friends .
BTW, we are allowed to post on closed auctions, and I did notice there were a number of SEE auctions this week that closed with no bids.

Thanks General. I actually had not read the rules until just now, and I didn't realize that talking about auctions was a no-no. I edited my most recent post and the pics, but I can't figure out (on my phone) how to erase the original pics.

What SEE auctions recently closed without any
bids?

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks FLUFARM! I knew the experts would help school this novice

Man, I must have you fooled, MSMOG. But perhaps one of the actual experts will help us both with this one.

 

[The FLU farm]

You should pinstripe your SEE, and install a Banks Power Pack to beef it up

I did ask Gale about a Power Pack when I got the SEE, but he said that it was too slow to benefit from the Ram Air setup, and that there wasn't sufficient space for the 4-inch Monster Sport Exhaust if I wanted it to exit where it does stock.

Pinstriping? Already have some, thank you. Courtesy of Junipers, cramped quarters, and bad maneuvering. I suppose that taking a clue from you and waxing the SEE would allow the tree branches to slide by with more ease, and not leave as many scratches. Still wouldn't keep the mirrors from getting whacked out of adjustment, though.

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks General. I actually had not read the rules until just now, and I didn't realize that talking about auctions was a no-no.

Not to worry, MSMOG. I did something similar a while back and no black suits have shown up yet.
Hang on, someone's at the door...

 

[burquedoka]

Has anybody modified their truck(s) to get more HP or thought about adding a turbo?
View attachment 652810View attachment 652811

Turning up the IP and mounting larger tires are the fastest and easiest methods to juice some more power and speed. It requires a little know-how, but not much, to avoid issues. Turbo charging a 352 is also feasible, thought keep in mind the non turboed 352 does not have underside piston squirters like the 352a and therefore could have piston cooling issues. Typically when a 406 or 416 is made into a turbo truck, raising the cab 3" or so is almost a must to make room for the plumbing. I'm not sure this is doable with these trucks and the FOPS structure over the cab.

 

[Speedwoble]

I have the front axle out of my non- parts parts SEE. I am in need of the drag link myself, so I was hunting around. If memory serves, I had determined that the US trucks are a 7:1 taper while the Mercedes is a 7.5:1 taper. Normal ball joint ends from a domestic truck shop will not fit.(they feel like it, but are only making small contact) I cut down a draglink from a mid 80's international and am trying to figure out what to do: Ream the knuckles to the US taper, try to find a metric drag link, or try to machine a taper adapter(paper thin due to the very small angle difference)

The thing is completely disassembled. Engine out, Trans out
I can measure the track bar ends. I believe they are the same sizes as the drag links.

Well, I measured the RH steering knuckle. The taper is 23mm at the narrow end, 26mm at the wide end, and 30mm thick between the two measurements.

 

[The FLU farm]

Here is a SEE up in Alaska that seem to have a few unique characteristics, such as a 24" excavator bucket by Intergy Inc instead of CASE.
And it's the only truck that I've seen with the rear tool box between the hydraulic tanks, just in front of the gas tank holder (there was a bulletin about moving stuff out of it due to water issues).

Alright, MSMOG, I warned you about the level of my "expertise".
Yes, my SEE has that tool box, but it's the only one that does. I'm so used to seeing that one that I never noticed that the other FLUs only have cover plates there.
On the other hand, I actually remembered correctly when it comes to the Intergy bucket. So that's two things my SEE has in common with the one in Alaska.

 

[BigBison]

Yes, the mounting wouldn't be as strong as when pulling horizontally as intended, but that would hold true for a Pierce, too.
I'd think that the easy way to make any winch capable of vertical use would be to have a hinged mount.

Interesting. One big reason the Pierce winch is best for trailer/flatbed vs. self-recovery front-mount, is the winch motor must be operated horizontally -- can't use it to pull yourself out of a ditch. Plus, if you're self-recovering off a PS-hydraulic winch, especially with hydroboost brakes, steering or braking (to let the winch catch up if worm gear), kills the winch.

I'm making progress with my service body. Good thing I hate whoever put it together and don't trust him one little bit at this point. If the air compressor had "just worked" or I hadn't had to remove the whole thing just to check the oil, it never would've dawned on me that yeah, the air filter/intake is installed in the same compartment as the lead-acid battery powering the compressor...

Making it impossible to *not* compress freaking Hydrogen through a hot, electric compressor not rated for explosive applications...

The only way this crane / service body for $10K turns into an actual bargain, will be if I value my time at about $5/hr. But, the end result will be something I'm proud of (if only after I buy a new crane it's properly wired before because I hate the Ramsey/AutoCrane at this point), even if it takes me the rest of the year to use it to get that leaking ram off the HMMH, dammit.

 

[BigBison]

Has anyone tried upsizing the pump for the forward hydraulics?

Well, augmenting more than upsizing, like another PTO...

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/pdf/A10V-Catalog.pdf

That 100cc pump has all the right stats on paper, to drive that 45gpm @ 4K psi snowblower I want to run.

Sizing a PTO to it, mounting it all up, hosing etc...

Big thing's gonna be cooling the fluid. But, during snowblower operations: 1) it's cold out; 2) only thing running on the rear would be a traction-sand spreader. So this pump will plumb into the rear PTO reservoir/cooling on the SEE without overloading it, not like the snowblower and backhoe need to run at the same time, eh?

This is just me, and I'm a known nutjob.

 

[The FLU farm]

Interesting. One big reason the Pierce winch is best for trailer/flatbed vs. self-recovery front-mount, is the winch motor must be operated horizontally -- can't use it to pull yourself out of a ditch. Plus, if you're self-recovering off a PS-hydraulic winch, especially with hydroboost brakes, steering or braking (to let the winch catch up if worm gear), kills the winch.

...it never would've dawned on me that yeah, the air filter/intake is installed in the same compartment as the lead-acid battery powering the compressor...Making it impossible to *not* compress freaking Hydrogen through a hot, electric compressor not rated for explosive applications...

Okay Bison, now I'm puzzled. Not that it's hard to accomplish that, but still. So why would the Pierce's motor need to be horizontal? If the hydraulic system is full of fluid, which it should be to function properly, I don't understand how it could matter which way the motor is situated. Of course, in a self recovery situation it becomes self regulated as the engine driving the P/S pump won't run well (or for long) on its side or upside down.
That P/S "powered" winches don't get along with the normal uses (steering and/or brakes) became painfully obvious when MileMarker first released its winches on the public market. Still not sure what made me buy one for the SEE, but I know why I'm not in a hurry to install it.

Glad you brought up the compressor-in-the-battery-compartment issue. A few days ago I brought home a gooseneck trailer with air suspension, and (you guessed it) the wet battery is in the same compartment as the compressor. My first thought was "Why the heck isn't this vented somehow?" since the compressor can generate a fair amount of heat. Then I figured that without any leaks in the system, it really shouldn't run very often, or for long.
Never gave the battery gassing any thought. Guess I can blame it on being used to running AGM batteries.
Now I have two reasons to change things around a bit. The other being that the tiny break-away battery and the large deep cycle for the compressor apparently are hooked together, likely with the idea being that both would get charged by the tow vehicle when plugged in.
The compressor's battery was already down to 12.50 Volts by the time I got home, and the break-away's indicator showed that it was charging. Which it couldn't have been.
Thankfully I had already wondered how the two batteries were wired before even picking the trailer up, so that was the first thing I checked once home, and then disconnected the deep cycle and charged it. Routing the compressor's air intake to the outside of the box will be simple. Figuring out the two batteries' wiring, maybe not. But I hope that eliminating the little break-away battery will solve it.

 

[peakbagger]

My SEE also has the toolbox. The piano hinge is rusted so it doesn't open very well. When I install the air dryer on the brake system I need a spot for a charge air tank. The tool box location is perfect spot for the tank.

 

[The FLU farm]

My SEE also has the toolbox. The piano hinge is rusted so it doesn't open very well. When I install the air dryer on the brake system I need a spot for a charge air tank. The tool box location is perfect spot for the tank.

Does that mean you'll sell me that (defective) toolbox for cheap, rather than throwing it in the trash?

 

[Mark1954]

Since I purport to be a prepper of sorts, I was considering the possibility of changing tires on a SEE. Obviously raising a small army so I always have 2-3 people available is one option, but just for argument's sake, removing and replacing a 170 lb tire and wheel out of and back into the carrier which is at eye level by yourself deserves consideration. I am thinking about 2 options, a simple crane assembly that pivots at the base, using a hand crank winch to lift/lower and raise the wheel. A second solution might be some sort of par-bucking sling to roll the wheel in and out. Ideas from the room?

 

[911joeblow]

Since I purport to be a prepper of sorts, I was considering the possibility of changing tires on a SEE. Obviously raising a small army so I always have 2-3 people available is one option, but just for argument's sake, removing and replacing a 170 lb tire and wheel out of and back into the carrier which is at eye level by yourself deserves consideration. I am thinking about 2 options, a simple crane assembly that pivots at the base, using a hand crank winch to lift/lower and raise the wheel. A second solution might be some sort of par-bucking sling to roll the wheel in and out. Ideas from the room?

How about a simple arm attached to the top of the roll bar right above the center of the tire. A 2"/4" box beam about 4'-5' long (install tall side up) with a single shouldered bolt on the roll bar thru the tube to mount it but allow it to swing also. The bottom of the tube could be routed out so it has a channel for an eye bolt to slide from the end of the tube to nearly against the roll bar. Then just a double pulley (think old ship block pulley) around the tire to the eye would take the weight and you could then swing it out and then slide the eye away from the truck and drop the tire. You could use bearings and such but it is not really that heavy. I have lifted it up solo without too much grunting.

If you think you might carry cargo in the rear under the stowed excavator then you can get a ready made crane for a pickup truck and install it in the rear center of the truck. Get the ones that telescope at least 8' and you should be OK.