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923-a2 No water separator

TCD

Member
119
7
18
Location
Mound.House, NV
Howdy,

Over the weekend my 923-a2 quit running while going down the road. It would start after a 15-30 minute rest, run very rough and quit again in about 30 secs after pumping out huge clouds of black smoke.

So I got home ( a whole different story titled "Towing a 5 Ton with a Ford F-350... Uphill no less!") and started studying the TM's and Steel Soldier archives. I learned that some 923-a2 trucks had their large water separators removed and then the military changed their mind and the large water separator was to be reinstalled on the trucks. My truck did not get the large water separator/filter assembly reinstalled (I assume from reading that the original device is both a separator and a filter).

I did find this "floating" (not bolted down) on top of the frame:

Floating-Fuel-Fitting.jpg

Clearly my truck frame cross-member has never had the device installed.

Frame-Cross-Member.jpg

Frame-Cross-Member-2.jpg

My questions are:

1 - Do you know what the function of the floating valve is and do I simply remove it and put either a military or after market device in the fuel line (There seems to be to many lines connected to simply be "in-line")?

2 - Do you know of a TM that outlines reinstalling a new device from scratch (including the complete parts list)?

3 - My truck has only one very small fuel filter mounted to the engine block (I didn't take a picture of this filter) and during my preliminary looking around I did not see a bottom drain plug. Could the wrong filter be on my truck and therefore I currently have no separator function?

4 - Would it be a better idea to install a commercial water separator/filter and if so can you recommend one?

Once this sorted out I will then be able to start looking into my original problem within the fuel system.

As always all comments and thoughts are Greatly Appreciated!

Tom

PS: Yes I searched and searched and searched the TMs and threads and I read and read many TMs, threads and articles related to my questions. And no I don't need instructions on how to do a search. My questions came as a result of my research and I could not find the answers to the above questions. And FYI the way the P2P program link (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-u...es-trucks.html) returns a 404 error and unless I missed a separate program it does not run on computers running Linux.

As always,

Thanks,
Tom
 

simp5782

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Part numbers for the spin on kits from napa along with the filters is in the quick parts spreadsheet. The stock filter canister is a very good filtration system. The filters can just be pricey sometimes. Your filter on the block does both for water/filter more than likely. Go over to the pushlok fittings. 1/2" pipe at the tank and 1/2" pipe at the canister or whatever you spin on fittings you purchase. Do your return line the same way off the engine to the tank. Solves alot of air problems with the metal lines.

https://youtu.be/OtDYB5w7RvA

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simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Pushlok means replacing all of your fuel lines with new rubber hoses. The part numbers for the fittings and hoses are in the spreadsheet as well if you have a parker hydraulic store near by

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162tcat

Active member
710
46
28
Location
Washington
Replace the filter on the block and definitely add a frame mounted spin on system like above. The Baldwin BF1212 would be a great option for on the frame rail. Excellent water removal ability


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TCD

Member
119
7
18
Location
Mound.House, NV
A Big Thanks & One Question

Howdy,

Thanks Very Much for the quick and informative answers! And I have to confess that I did not think of looking at the parts spreadsheet for more info...

If I have distilled the above comments correctly I will purchase and install a spin-on filter plate with a Baldwin BF1212 filter (which has very high ratings on the web) or equivalent, completely removing all of the combined fuel lines currently in place and use Push-Lok hose and fittings in a simple pass-through design (and thereby also eliminate possible future problems with the original hose and solid fuel lines). I think that I can make up the Push-Lok lines and I have Hydraulic Industrial Services Inc right down the road from me. I will finish the installation with a lower bash-plate and be ready to go! Well at least go to my next problem of getting my truck to go...

Three questions:

1 - Is there a pressure issue with regards to the rating of the hose I use?

2 - Does anyone know just what the valve in picture #1 above does and should I simply remove it from the circuit? (I will completely trace the mystery valve tomorrow to map out just where / what the hoses go to.)

3 - Should I stay with the recommended filter for the block mounted one or is thee a better filter given my new configuration?

Again, Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

Tom
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,385
113
Location
Mason, TN
Howdy,

Thanks Very Much for the quick and informative answers! And I have to confess that I did not think of looking at the parts spreadsheet for more info...

If I have distilled the above comments correctly I will purchase and install a spin-on filter plate with a Baldwin BF1212 filter (which has very high ratings on the web) or equivalent, completely removing all of the combined fuel lines currently in place and use Push-Lok hose and fittings in a simple pass-through design (and thereby also eliminate possible future problems with the original hose and solid fuel lines). I think that I can make up the Push-Lok lines and I have Hydraulic Industrial Services Inc right down the road from me. I will finish the installation with a lower bash-plate and be ready to go! Well at least go to my next problem of getting my truck to go...

Three questions:

1 - Is there a pressure issue with regards to the rating of the hose I use?

2 - Does anyone know just what the valve in picture #1 above does and should I simply remove it from the circuit? (I will completely trace the mystery valve tomorrow to map out just where / what the hoses go to.)

3 - Should I stay with the recommended filter for the block mounted one or is thee a better filter given my new configuration?

Again, Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

Tom
Block filter is fine. Just replace it. The pushlok fuel line is 3000psi. And remove the valve completely

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74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
The fuel line is suction (vacuum) from tank to pump, then open ended return from injection pump back to tank. I would say the more important characteristics would be ability for low level suction, and temperature resistance since the fuel is heated during operation. The soft lines permeate air into them on the suction side over time. Pickup tubes have also been known to corrode or crack in their length or at the elbow fitting. All 8.3's have the engine mounted filter, some trucks have the frame mounted filter, and some do not.
 
Last edited:

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,450
120
63
Location
Gray, GA
I did find this "floating" (not bolted down) on top of the frame:

View attachment 654090


1 - Do you know what the function of the floating valve is and do I simply remove it and put either a military or after market device in the fuel line (There seems to be to many lines connected to simply be "in-line")?
That valve is one of the double check valves for air brake system and has nothing to do with fuel. It is most likely double check valve #6 or #7, depending on location, and is a part of the ABS side of the system. It should be bolted down or secured but I'd have to look at my truck to see where.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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9,385
113
Location
Mason, TN
Pushlok fuel line is good for 300 psi NOT 3000 psi.
Hope that was just a typo.
Yea it was. Fat fingers on a small screen and you can not edit your post with the tapatalk app

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