Wish your M1008 would turn like an M1009?

[The FLU farm]

It can, after getting rid of 31 inches of frame. Offers better rearward visibility, too.

 

[marchplumber]

It can, after getting rid of 31 inches of frame. Offers better rearward visibility, too.View attachment 659956

OK. I'll bite. What is it and what's its purpose to exist? Different in a good way, just curious.

 

[The FLU farm]

Well, you already know it is (was?) an M1008. Needed a stouter tow vehicle than the one I was using to pull a 10-foot dump trailer, which didn't really like pulling a full load of dirt.
Also wanted a yard goat of sorts.
The choices were to cut the sheet metal off the rear of my M1009 or shorten the M1008. The '9 would've been better in a way with its Atlas transfer case (allowing 2WD Low) and it already had 3/4-ton axles. But to have what's basically an abuse vehicle with a Banks turbo didn't feel quite right. So, sold the M1009 and cut down the stock M1008. Needless to say, as soon as the more capable tug was completed, a 16-foot dump trailer was purchased. Which the M1008 handles without any problems.

 

[dougco1]

Its no longer a 1008; You may want to call that a 1007:5 or a 1007 & 1/2.

 

[The FLU farm]

Its no longer a 1008; You may want to call that a 1007:5 or a 1007 & 1/2.

Good point. I guess it's barely a 1007.2 these days.

 

[WillemV8]

The faded paint looks really nice on that m1007.2. May I ask, where did you get those mirrors from?

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks, Willem. That's what UV can accomplish over time.
The mirrors are off of a friend's old Apollo motor home, with modified lower mounts and homemade upper mounts. Stuff I had laying around in other words.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

So did you move the axle forward 31"? Would you be able to post some pictures of the leaf spring mounting points? This thing looks great

 

[The FLU farm]

No, the 31-inch shortening is a little misleading in that it includes both what I removed from the frame at the rear of the cab and behind the rear spring hangers.
In other words, the wheelbase isn't a full 31 inches shorter. I'll dig up some photos later today that might help explain what I did, and how.

Basically, the forward cut was based on how much of the frame could be removed (and reattached) with relative ease without removing the cab.
Then the drive shaft angle dictated that the two frame halves be a offset a bit. Well, I wanted to keep the factory drive shaft angle, and also not get the exaggerated rake that would've resulted from simply butting the frame rails up against each other.
Hopefully the photos will explain it better.

At this point I'm fighting the urge to put duals in the rear. It'd look bitchin', I think, but not be very practical for what I'm doing. A toolbox or two, somewhere to put shovels, etc. would be more intelligent additions. And a couple of cheap work lights, front and rear. And a winch. Maybe even taillights inset into the back of the cab.
Main problem being that I won't live long enough to make all that modifications to all the vehicles that I'd like to.

 

[ke5eua]

Looks like a tug. I like it.


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[The FLU farm]

Okay, found some photos that might help explain how I cut this one down. This was about as far forward, and definitely as far to the rear, that was feasible.

Here you can see the offset, allowing the drive shaft to stay at the stock angle. And prevent a cartoonish rake in the process.
Needless to say, the flanges were gusseted top and bottom, plus a plate covering the cut was welded in. Not pretty, and not only because of my welding skills, but there was some sort of coating (especially on the inside of the frame) that looked like melted solder dripping off.
To make it a useful tug, leftover 4x4 1/4-inch wall tubing was used to make a gooseneck hitch and a regular receiver. The receiver also serving as a new crossmember after I lopped off the now useless rear part of the frame. Which is also how the frame shortening added up to 31 inches, but the wheelbase didn't shrink by quite as much.
At some point I'll get around to build a box over the tank, which will be secured to the brackets that used to hold the tank.
Hope this sheds some light on how the project was done. It was fun to do, and made the M1008, err, 1007.2 very maneuverable and handy for pulling various trailers.

 

[corelokt]

Where's the duallies?

 

[The FLU farm]

I'm actually proud of myself for not having installed duals yet. Especially since I have a set.
Many, many other things that needs to get done, but now you reminded me of something I want to try, despite that it'll make it less practical. Thanks a lot, corelokt.

 

[corelokt]

I think it would add to "WTF, did GM make that?" factor.

 

[corelokt]

Oh, btw, I like it. Cool mini semi.

 

[The FLU farm]

I think it would add to "WTF, did GM make that?" factor.

One minor detail came to mind. The wheels I have are aluminum. That just wouldn't look right.
Guess I could put the aluminum rims on the inside and the black steel inners on the outside. Unless I have another set of wheels...gotta look.

 

[corelokt]

What's the easiest way to put dually wheels on a 14 bolt like ours?

 

[86m1028]

What's the easiest way to put dually wheels on a 14 bolt like ours?

swap it out for a dually 14 bolt or Dana 70

btw the dually 14 bolt will be a narrow axle (c&c) & the 70 is wide

 

[The FLU farm]

What's the easiest way to put dually wheels on a 14 bolt like ours?

Not that I've measured or tried, but it sure looks like it'd merely be a matter of removing the single wheel and bolting the duals on.
The only reason that I can see why it wouldn't work is if there isn't enough distance to the spring, which it sure looks like there is.
Keep in mind that while a dually pickup has the inner rear in the same track as the front tire, a cab and chassis usually puts the front tire's track right in the middle of the rears.
Which is just about what I would end up with.

EDIT: Measured a dually wheel just for kicks, and with a 235/80R17 tire it would protrude inwards about 10 inches from the hub face. That should leave around an inch of sidewall to spring clearance, and I think GM wheels have less offset than the Ram wheel I measured. Of course, with the bed in place and a single wheel axle it would require tubbed fenders and probably some trimming of the outer fender opening, like on a factory dually.

 

[86m1028]

Not that I've measured or tried, but it sure looks like it'd merely be a matter of removing the single wheel and bolting the duals on.
The only reason that I can see why it wouldn't work is if there isn't enough distance to the spring, which it sure looks like there is.
Keep in mind that while a dually pickup has the inner rear in the same track as the front tire, a cab and chassis usually puts the front tire's track right in the middle of the rears.
Which is just about what I would end up with.

EDIT: Measured a dually wheel just for kicks, and with a 235/80R17 tire it would protrude inwards about 10 inches from the hub face. That should leave around an inch of sidewall to spring clearance, and I think GM wheels have less offset than the Ram wheel I measured. Of course, with the bed in place and a single wheel axle it would require tubbed fenders and probably some trimming of the outer fender opening, like on a factory dually.

The springs on a 1 ton are closer to the frame for this very reason.
The inner dual on a cc axle is very close to the ubolts on the springs.
Look at Recovery4x4 threads, He has put a cc 14 bolt under his m1031 (secm).