• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Just picked up a 2009 MEP-803A

craigc

Member
97
0
6
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Thanks, that explains it for me. I have another what is it and where does it come from question. I've found 3 of the little nuts in the gauge panel end of the generator belly pan and one of the other item in the picture. IMG_20161220_1341489.jpg
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,671
23,836
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Top item is part of a ground cable securing clamp. The nut, is one of millions dropped by people who could not find them again. Its not the only one you will find if you take the whole set apart. Not to worry, if it is important, the problem will show up later, when you least expect it. But it does look like a canopy nut. There are about 200 in the set.
 

craigc

Member
97
0
6
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Top item is part of a ground cable securing clamp. The nut, is one of millions dropped by people who could not find them again. Its not the only one you will find if you take the whole set apart. Not to worry, if it is important, the problem will show up later, when you least expect it. But it does look like a canopy nut. There are about 200 in the set.
Thank you for your help, I've found 3 of the small nuts so far. Is the part of ground cable clamp is from a ground rod kit or from a ground inside the generator and there for a safety issue?
 

craigc

Member
97
0
6
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Finally have the power distribution put together and working. The spider box is a CEP 6506G and I bought a 50' cable and removed the connector and attached the cable to the generator lugs. The spider box has a 50A 240V pass thru so I can use the connector I removed to wire my welder to the connector and plug into the spider box (with nothing else plugged in).

IMG_20161230_1506477.jpgIMG_20161230_1506378.jpgIMG_20161230_1507320.jpgIMG_20161230_1507018.jpgIMG_20161230_1508513.jpgIMG_20161230_1509227.jpgIMG_20161230_1509397.jpg
 
Last edited:

Triton

Active member
240
81
28
Location
Houston, Texas
Craig, that's a cool setup, I want to run a 75 foot cable to my transfer switch on my house. I have read so much about what size cable to use that I'm confused, I think I will need 4ga 4 wire cable for 75 feet running 240volt single phase. How did you figure out what size to use?
 

craigc

Member
97
0
6
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Craig, that's a cool setup, I want to run a 75 foot cable to my transfer switch on my house. I have read so much about what size cable to use that I'm confused, I think I will need 4ga 4 wire cable for 75 feet running 240volt single phase. How did you figure out what size to use?
I think 6 gauge copper would be fine for 75 feet for 240VAC 50 Amps with a voltage drop of less than 3% but you can use this calculator to check for yourself. There is 2 ways to use the calculator, "Minimum conductor size" and "Maximum circuit distance". Try them both and I think you'll see 6 gauge should be fine.

http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm

There is some great posts about grounding and neutral bonded / not bonded when connecting a genset to a home so just search for that and you'll find them. Remember safety first :D
 
Last edited:

craigc

Member
97
0
6
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Really nice setup with the cable and box. Did you buy local or order in?
Thanks, the cable is a COLEMAN CABLE 01918 6/3 50Ft SEOW 50A 50ft Power Distribution Extension
and the Box is a CEP 6506G with 6 20A twistlock and one 30A 240V twistlock. there is GFI on the 120V outlets, there is a 240V 50A pass through and breakers for everything in the box under a meatal door.

I purchased the box as used on ebay and bought the cable online as well because I wanted the best price :)
 

Firebrand

Member
70
19
8
Location
Charlestown, NH
Thanks for that! While I plan to use my 803A for home power, the capability to make power available direct from the unit while not hooked up to the house would be very beneficial.
 

craigc

Member
97
0
6
Location
Des Moines Iowa
Thanks for that! While I plan to use my 803A for home power, the capability to make power available direct from the unit while not hooked up to the house would be very beneficial.
I'm going to use the setup for the house, I put in a furnace transfer switch and will run a quality power bar to run a few lights and the TV. We have a gas stove and water heater with all LED or fluorescent lights and its just to expensive to put in a whole house transfer switch right now. We have a great neighbour and I'll connect her furnace up as well if the power goes down for too long.
 

Firebrand

Member
70
19
8
Location
Charlestown, NH
I used my older tractor PTO driven 12.5kw unit like that, with cables, to run critical loads, but now with a stand alone unit, I would rather spend the money to run the whole house rather than just run cables all around the basement. Pay it once, and enjoy the time saved!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks