FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Migginsbros]

Originally Posted by lummi
Did you ever figure out why the RPM switch wasn't working? I am having the same problem. Does the tools switch need to be engaged for the hi/low switch to work? Also, what is the part number of the Cole Hersee tool switch (broke mine trying to clean terminals). Thanks

It is not neccesary to pull the tool switch for the rpm or hi/low funktion on the backhoe fan desk. The tool switch give pressure to the tool hoses and parallel rise rpm.
Perhaps...... the hi/low and rpm switch on the fan desk is only in funktion with PTO (for the backhoe) engaged. We will check out next time.

Today we tryed out the funktion of the two switches on the hydr.oil cooler desk (Hi/Low + RPM) It is not neccessary to engage PTO for both switches to work. But you must have airpressure on
your system to let the air cylinder work.

 

[The FLU farm]

Speaking of those switches for the tools; A while back I removed both (neither light or tool would move) switches and sprayed some JB-80 into them best I could, wiring still attached.
Main problem, I think, was that mine were mounted with the contacts facing up, making the metal body a tub to hold moisture.
Tried them again the other day, and now the light switch worked. Just my luck. The one I would want to work is the tool switch.

 

[johnjohn]

I just received a SEE and the engine runs great, but the clutch has no resistance at all. I can put the gears in without pushing the clutch and while the unit is running. Does anyone know what might be wrong?

 

[The FLU farm]

Welcome to the madness, John.
As far as your clutch issue(s) go, the only way I can explain what's happening is that there's no mechanical connection between the flywheel and transmission. Or, your shifter isn't connected to the forks.
Getting the master and slave to work will likely be the easy part. I suppose that if you're really lucky, the slave cylinder is stuck and keeps the pressure plate pushed in.
More clues would be helpful. For example, is there any fluid in the master? Does it look like there's been recent work done in the transmission area?
Maybe because I'm a little disappointed with some of the work I've seen done (okay, not the work itself, but the result) on units from GP, I wouldn't be all that surprised if it turns out that you have a new clutch - just no bolts holding the flywheel on. Yeah, that is a long shot.

 

[Bikers33]

I just received a SEE and the engine runs great, but the clutch has no resistance at all. I can put the gears in without pushing the clutch and while the unit is running. Does anyone know what might be wrong?

Obvious question, Have you checked your hydraulic clutch reservoir under the hood? It is the one on the right beside the air intake hose. There would be no resistance if it's out of fluid. Also make sure that the forward/reverse shift lever is engaged, I forget sometimes. How did it get loaded/unloaded? Was it working before?

 

[Couchoffroad]

On your clutch issue. 90% chance it's just your slave or master cyl. It could just have air in the system or have been damaged by water getting into the resivoir .
Try pressure bleading the system ,but make sure you use only dot 5 pure silicone brake fluid. This is the only Unimog to use silicone in the affiliated systems because of it being speced for the US military. Pretty nice to your hands ,but not to your wallet.
We've had a couple come in with water damage to these cylinders and replaced them both and had good luck.
if you mess with the slave cylinder just make sure the angel of it is on a good alignment with the swing of the clutch actuation lever and the plunger is supposed to have around.2mm play between it and the lever. This really hasn't been too critical over the last 20 plus years I'm sure I haven't gotten them all to this exact number and they've all still worked.

Get the SEE repair book and it's really good to have a pressure blender and often the only way to get all the air out.

I think we we sell the bleader for it and maybe Scott at EI. We do have the cylinders and resivoir if needed.
probably just air, good luck!

 

[johnjohn]

I started there because there is clearly a problem. Mine is dry rot and full of water. I will check the technical manual to start with the trouble shooting. I may need to replace the entire thing actually likely the solution.

 

[The FLU farm]

Also make sure that the forward/reverse shift lever is engaged, I forget sometimes.

A simple potential cause I overlooked. There has to be more to the story than the non operational hydraulics in the clutch system, or the trans couldn't be shifted with the engine running.

 

[jstark45xd]

First day to the claim and back with the new tires. That are the Pirelli pista ps22's. Talk about a game changer! Ride was solid. There was no rodeo over the bumps like the michelins. They are a bad ass tire next to the conti's I wanted. I'm glad I was able to get them out of Colony Tire in Norfolk. I pray that I never have to go back to stock tires.

 

[Foxyjosh]

I finally got my SEE started and running. Engine runs smoothly. When I engage the pto for the back equipment I go through a fuse for the dash panel. It is currently a white fuse and the red one doesn't fare any better. What should I use?
The tilting cylinder gushes oil when lowering the backhoe. Does anyone know if this is a Case part and have a part number?
The high/low/reverse stick on the transmission doesn't want to engage and I can't shift it. Any thoughts on what may be the issue? Do I need transmission oil or is there a bigger problem?

 

[peakbagger]

Looks like you need to download the manuals, they are free and have much of the information you need. They aren't optional if you plan to keep the SEE. There are a couple of locations and may even be on this site
Here is one location http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/links.html#info you need to scroll down the page to get to the links. (Note this is one of these "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime" moments). IMHO a SEE is fairly complex beast and if you are unwilling to look things up in the manuals you might as well sell it now. Definitely not something a shade tree mechanic can pull off. The CRTL F function in Adobe Acrobat is your friend. I usually just enter a search word in the box instead of going through the indexes

That said I will throw you something.

With a 24 volt system a red fuse is generally for fairly high load circuits. I have found a listing of the fuse sizing somewhere in the manuals but it wasn't in an obvious spot that I can remember the location off hand. I looked at the wiring diagram and the fuse for the PTO looks to be the 3rd one over in fuse box 1. Its a white fuse (there are only a few red 16 amp fuses, one is used for the rear backhoe and accessories harness which includes the hydraulic fans. I think the windshield heater is another one. The PTO circuit is covered in the electrical diagnostic section of the manual. Its a pretty simple circuit, there is common power feed (wire 372) from the fuse panel to all five indicators, a separate PTO lamp bulb is wired to the common supply wire 372 and then the other side of the bulb goes to Wire 22 which runs from the PTO indicator back to the PTO switch (which I haven't looked for but expect its on or near the transmission). If the PTO is engaged, the switch goes to ground completing the circuit. If you are blowing the fuse it means you are drawing a lot more amperage than you should be as the lamp is pretty low resistance. Its odd unless the light socket has short in it so that wire 372 is directly connected to wire 22. By the way the best way to find the PTO switch is to look it up in the parts manual as they have good sketches of the component locations.

Be aware that many SEEs have hidden rodent electrical damage behind the dash that it not visible unless you remove lots of stuff. The SEE may still run with this damage but if you have a lot of odd electrical gremlins you may be in for an experience as the damage can be pretty extensive. Several of us have gone through the repairs.

Can't help you on the shifter lever but it sure sounds like you may have to tilt the cab and that is major project (which is also described in the manuals) and requires a special set of tilting brackets. I believe a Steel Soldiers member speedwoble makes and sells them. They are not optional, if you try it without them you will do a lot of damage

 

[Another Ahab]

First day to the claim and back with the new tires. That are the Pirelli pista ps22's. Talk about a game changer! Ride was solid. There was no rodeo over the bumps like the michelins. They are a bad ass tire next to the conti's I wanted. I'm glad I was able to get them out of Colony Tire in Norfolk. I pray that I never have to go back to stock tires.

Hod did you hear about those; just from doing your homework, or what?

 

[The FLU farm]

First day to the claim and back with the new tires. That are the Pirelli pista ps22's. Talk about a game changer! Ride was solid. There was no rodeo over the bumps like the michelins. They are a bad ass tire next to the conti's I wanted. I'm glad I was able to get them out of Colony Tire in Norfolk. I pray that I never have to go back to stock tires.

Those look like manly tires. I never came across them while searching for something suitable for a SEE, but now I have to look up the specs for those Pirellis.
After I recently bought two sets of tires, of course.

With any luck the weather will cooperate today and allow fixing the air leaks in Formerly's fuel lines, and then I'll be able to report back on the performance of the Pitbull Rockers.
Maybe later in the spring we can have a tire shootout? I'll have at least six Michelins to contribute to the cause, and you probably have four or five, right? The neighbors around here are used to hearing shooting, so we could do it here.

 

[Another Ahab]

Maybe later in the spring we can have a tire shootout? I'll have at least six Michelins to contribute to the cause, and you probably have four or five, right? The neighbors around here are used to hearing shooting, so we could do it here.

Now you know we'll need a vid of that, right?! opcorn:

 

[Foxyjosh]

Looks like you need to download the manuals, they are free and have much of the information you need. They aren't optional if you plan to keep the SEE. There are a couple of locations and may even be on this site
Here is one location http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/links.html#info you need to scroll down the page to get to the links. (Note this is one of these "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime" moments). IMHO a SEE is fairly complex beast and if you are unwilling to look things up in the manuals you might as well sell it now. Definitely not something a shade tree mechanic can pull off. The CRTL F function in Adobe Acrobat is your friend. I usually just enter a search word in the box instead of going through the indexes

That said I will throw you something.

With a 24 volt system a red fuse is generally for fairly high load circuits. I have found a listing of the fuse sizing somewhere in the manuals but it wasn't in an obvious spot that I can remember the location off hand. I looked at the wiring diagram and the fuse for the PTO looks to be the 3rd one over in fuse box 1. Its a white fuse (there are only a few red 16 amp fuses, one is used for the rear backhoe and accessories harness which includes the hydraulic fans. I think the windshield heater is another one. The PTO circuit is covered in the electrical diagnostic section of the manual. Its a pretty simple circuit, there is common power feed (wire 372) from the fuse panel to all five indicators, a separate PTO lamp bulb is wired to the common supply wire 372 and then the other side of the bulb goes to Wire 22 which runs from the PTO indicator back to the PTO switch (which I haven't looked for but expect its on or near the transmission). If the PTO is engaged, the switch goes to ground completing the circuit. If you are blowing the fuse it means you are drawing a lot more amperage than you should be as the lamp is pretty low resistance. Its odd unless the light socket has short in it so that wire 372 is directly connected to wire 22. By the way the best way to find the PTO switch is to look it up in the parts manual as they have good sketches of the component locations.

Be aware that many SEEs have hidden rodent electrical damage behind the dash that it not visible unless you remove lots of stuff. The SEE may still run with this damage but if you have a lot of odd electrical gremlins you may be in for an experience as the damage can be pretty extensive. Several of us have gone through the repairs.

Can't help you on the shifter lever but it sure sounds like you may have to tilt the cab and that is major project (which is also described in the manuals) and requires a special set of tilting brackets. I believe a Steel Soldiers member speedwoble makes and sells them. They are not optional, if you try it without them you will do a lot of damage

I was hoping somebody would already know the answer which is why I asked. I already had the cab tilted using brackets that I made to remove the engine to repair a large hole in the oil pan. After buttoning everything up I was hoping that I wouldn't have to take 50 steps backwards to fix this new issue.

I assure you I am no mere Shadetree Mechanic. A metric pulley from Germany would have set me back $800. However, a local pulley shop had an American pulley that I was able to machine into the part I needed for about $10.00.

 

[The FLU farm]

The PTO circuit is covered in the electrical diagnostic section of the manual. Its a pretty simple circuit, there is common power feed (wire 372) from the fuse panel to all five indicators, a separate PTO lamp bulb is wired to the common supply wire 372 and then the other side of the bulb goes to Wire 22 which runs from the PTO indicator back to the PTO switch (which I haven't looked for but expect its on or near the transmission).

Not having consulted the excellent chart of General Hood fame, if I understand you correctly, peakbagger, all that circuit accomplishes is to turn on an indicator light - which tells you that you have moved a lever. If all the light switches are in the correct position to allow the indicator light to come on.
Sounds like a feature I would opt not to worry about.
As I have mentioned in the past, I like simplicity, and when the day comes when I need a light telling me that I engaged the PTO, I have no business operating a vehicle anymore, let alone a SEE.

 

[Another Ahab]

I assure you I am no mere Shadetree Mechanic. A metric pulley from Germany would have set me back $800. However, a local pulley shop had an American pulley that I was able to machine into the part I needed for about $10.00.

I did the math. THAT was a deal.

 

[jstark45xd]

Hod did you hear about those; just from doing your homework, or what?

I was just scouring eBay looking for the same size tire as people were selling just one of the michelins for $750. I saw those and did the research. They were the only ones I saw that could hold the weight.

 

[jstark45xd]

Those look like manly tires. I never came across them while searching for something suitable for a SEE, but now I have to look up the specs for those Pirellis.
After I recently bought two sets of tires, of course.

With any luck the weather will cooperate today and allow fixing the air leaks in Formerly's fuel lines, and then I'll be able to report back on the performance of the Pitbull Rockers.
Maybe later in the spring we can have a tire shootout? I'll have at least six Michelins to contribute to the cause, and you probably have four or five, right? The neighbors around here are used to hearing shooting, so we could do it here.

That would be fun. I had gotten two extra michelins before I got these. With two blown out, I have three good spares.

 

[peakbagger]

Ding, ding, ding, you are correct. I think all the indicator lights work the same way, they are not part of control circuit. I must admit I never hooked up the high air filter differential pressure alarm switch.

Not having consulted the excellent chart of General Hood fame, if I understand you correctly, peakbagger, all that circuit accomplishes is to turn on an indicator light - which tells you that you have moved a lever. If all the light switches are in the correct position to allow the indicator light to come on.
Sounds like a feature I would opt not to worry about.
As I have mentioned in the past, I like simplicity, and when the day comes when I need a light telling me that I engaged the PTO, I have no business operating a vehicle anymore, let alone a SEE.